1998 Lexus ES 300 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

I love how there are no answers on here I was trying to find out why my key won't open the trunk in general and I'm not sure but I believe the other key may actually open the trunk but it's my girlfriend's car and I don't ever think about using her key to check but I'm going to now as there are no answers here hope you figured it out 4 years ago now LOL

The bolts are "Lefty Loosey"

Make sure the right spark plugs was fitted first

Nah... Robert Hofland, The security key either works or it does not... If the "DEALER" actually has a MECHANIC around... That would a NICE (albeit unlikely). YOUR Dealer ... (In my opinion: needs a little integrity and / or a brain)... Your can get "FREE" reads to get the Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) pulled out of your On Board Diagnostic System... Don't buy anything... ESPECIALLY not Oxygen sensors... just get the codes READ-OUT... Come back here... We have some pretty good experience...!! >> If it only does this when it is cold... >> or when it has been standing... Point to completely different troubles... but both in your FUEL SUPPLY. Getting those codes is PARAMOUNT. Exhaust shops, parts stores... even some mechanics... If it is something simple... You might be wise just to get it fixed... or diagnosed & fix it yourself... Pretty sure you are BETTER OFF not letting the "dealer" continue at VERY BEST... being incredibly INCOMPETENT... dishonest... (creep... etc. (in my opinion)). Try it... Big savings... You will be proud. Carnac the Magnificent

On this website, you find fuse box diagram and description for Lexus ES300 (1998) Lexus ES300 1998 fuse box diagram Auto Genius

You need to have the security system programmed, many locksmiths can do this, and of course the dealer as well.

You have a leaking head gasket if you are sure it is motor oil.

I believe the voltage regulator is controlled by the ECM ....computor

From what I can tell, the 2 codes aren't related. The BBEVAP error can be as simple as changing the fuel cap (try this first) to a vacuum hose leak or a purge valve malfunction.
As far as the transmission goes, first check your fluid and look at the color; if it's brown or gives off a burning smell, it really needs changing. It's true that the modern flushing system is bad for older transmissions but changing the fluid and filter through the transmission pan will be the only way to truly diagnose how bad the transmission damage is. Leaving old fluid in the transmission will only lead to it quitting on you sooner than replacing the fluid,filter etc. Hope this helps and best of luck!

Ignition immobilizer probably needs to reprogram is the security light on. I am not sure that your car has a fuel switch. If the car has a fuel cut off system, for you to reset it, the manual says to turn the key to the acc setting n let it sit for a few seconds then turn key off then turn car on. Fuel pumps do go on these and from what I remember, pretty easy job if you have some mechanical ability. Press the helpful button and Follow me on Fixya for more tips

Your owners manual will let you know for sure. It should be in the underhood fuse / relay center

A noisey fuel pump can be an indication of a worn pump. You have to do a fuel pressure test to determine if the pump is supplying proper pressure and volume

Starter not engaged. No fuel. No spark.

This is normal if your A/C doesn't work. When set on defrost the A/C kicks on and off to keep the fog from appearing. the fog goes away once the heat inside reaches a certain temperature. Unless the drain is clogged and the plenum is holding water. Do you have ice on the inside? clean the drain. It's on the passenger side, near the bottom of the firewall. A rubber tube coming out, that goes to nothing.

Are you saying the water reappeared while the car was still in the garage? Hope this is not true, as that would most likely be related to the heater core or plumbing, but I thought all that was on the passenger side. If you mean after putting the car back outside and in more rain, possible cowl vent tube leak, windshield leak, or door vents at bottom edge blocked with debris.

you need to have your front wheel sensors checked. One or both are bad or possible bad connection.

Fuel pump maybe, clogged fuel filter maybe....could be other problems with sensors on the engine starting to have intermittent problems after things warm up in the engine bay. Best to have someone competent check it out for you instead of throwing parts at it. Do the easy stuff first like maintenance items like the fuel filter? Ever changed it? Might be codes stored in the computer system on-board that will help a mechanic diagnose the problem. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/michael_2496c4f07ad24453

What do you mean about "TIE UP BATTERY CABLE" were they hanging into the fan blade, belt or exhaust. I don't understand the question.

From where?

Without knowing if there has been any "Cooling System " work on car. (1) U could have a stuck thermostat, air in cooling system, water pump or impeller damaged. (2) top hose is coolant from engine TO radiator (3) bottom hose is coolant from radiator pulled into engine. (4) engine is WARM but is it RUNNING ? (5). Also, if radiator/coolant tank cap is left off , system is unable to pressurize , there fore "SOFT HOSES". all this is guessing without more info. bigAl