20 Most Recent 1998 Lexus ES 300 - Page 8 Questions & Answers

these engines are notorious for sludge problems, however that's unusual that an engine with low mileage has an internal problem. the oil itself doesn't matter that much. you should be fine with any brand 5w30 or 10w30. im interested to know what inside damage your talking about.

open truck. remove access cover on tailight assembly. Turn the plastic tail light plastic bulb holder 1/4 turn, pull out burned bulb.

you can look in 1-3 places (1) check in the glove box for a fuse box.(2)check by your left foot in the kick panel for a fuse box(3) look under the hood there you will have a master fuse box and you will see a relay in there for your tail lights.

"To get access to the 3rd brake light:

- Place each hand against both sides of the plastic housing, and firmly grasp and pull the housing towards you. It might not budge at first, but it should move once you get a good grip on it.

- Pull the housing out just enough so that you can see the brake light bulb and stick your hand underneath. Ignore the speaker wires.

- Pull out the old bulb from the socket (it plugs in/out). Wear rubber gloves when handling the new bulb, and put the new one into the socket.

- Reverse the steps here to put the 3rd brake light back into place. Test out your brake light, and you're done" quoted from lexusk8 @ clublexus.com (great forum)

Hi;
Both of your leaks are most likely minor problems, but will leave a mess in your driveway. If Oil is pouring out of the engine, then you need to get them repaired. The most important thing you can do is religiously check your oil level. Any auto parts store will scan your codes and tell you what code is tripped.

This is a common problem youll have to replace the radio or if you are good at soldering you can solder a new lcd screen into the radio itself.

the dip stick tube

check your light fitting units the normally corrode also the wires some times snap on the of side rear inner-wing normally due to a slight bump they break the wires check wires from both side and if one side dosn,t have power just run feeds from that to your non working lights but becarefull for any shorting from the wires when you connect you new wiring

The "Check Engine" light, which is also called a "Malfunction Indicator Lamp" (MIL) or "Service Engine Soon" (SES) lamp, is there to signal you when a problem occurs that may require attention. This can include anything from a momentary hiccup that has has little or no noticeable affect on engine performance or driving safety to a failure of a major electronic component. There's no way to know what the light means without running a diagnostic scan on the system to determine the nature of the fault.
As a rule, a continuous Check Engine light usually signals a "hard fault" or failure that has occurred. If the light comes on and off, or only blinks momentarily, the problem may be minor or intermittent in nature.
To help identify the problem, it helps to make a mental note of the conditions that occurred when the light came on. Where you driving at a certain speed? Accelerating or slowing down? Shifting gears?
Onboard diagnostic systems are very complex and require a fair amount of expertise as well as special tools to troubleshoot. To find out what's wrong, a technician has to "get into" your system through a diagnostic connector which may be located under the dash, under the driver's seat or in the engine compartment. The diagnostic connector serves as a port of entry for accessing information and/or for putting your vehicle's computer system into a special diagnostic mode for further testing or displaying "fault codes".
Fault codes are numeric codes that are generated when a problem is detected. If a sensor circuit reads out of range or some electronic component fails to respond to a command from the computer, the computer recognizes it as a fault and records a number that corresponds to the nature of the problem. The technician must then retrieve the code and refer to specific diagnostic chart or "fault tree" that gives him the step-by-step checks he has to perform to isolate the failed component. It can be a very time-consuming process depending on the nature of the problem. Usually the process works but sometimes it doesn't. An intermittent fault can be very difficult to track down, and may require repeated attempts to repair it

If the light was flashing when it came on, then it means your engine is misfiring.

A solid light can mean anything from a loose/faulty gas cap to a transmission issue.

This light comes on when the computer detects a fault of some sort in its diagnostic tests. If it keeps detecting this issue, the light will remain on. If the light turns off, then it has detected that the issue may no longer be present.

In order to find out what the exact reason was for your light, You need to have your car computer scanned to retrieve the code that the computer would have stored when the light triggered. Most garages will do this free of charge. The code will tell you what may have caused the light to initially turn on.

BF Goodrich Traction TA is a great all season tire and you can get an H speed rating good to 130 mph without breaking the bank

If you replacing the compressor then none, the compressors come pre-oiled.

under the hood theres two bulbs in each headlight, your looking for the inner one. twist it to remove it. the bulb you need is a 9005 bulb, available at any autoparts store for 10-15 dollars.

chances are you have climate control. check and make sure your driveside control is on warm air and not cold air.