20 Most Recent 1990 Jeep Cherokee Limited - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Bad fuel pump, or fuel regulator, use a small vise grip and squeeze the fuel return line a little bit (its a black hose located in the forward part of fuel supply rack feeding injectors) dont pinch it all the way shut. if it runs better its your fuel regulator. Thats a common problem with that type, later models did away with fuel return.

Try this: turn key on for 5 seconds,but dont start. turn it off and turn it on again for 5 seconds then try to start it. If it starts up better, you need to test the fuel pressure.
hook up a test gauge to the test port on the fuel rail, try to start and watch fuel pressure, after it builds.to its max turn engine off, it should then hold pressure for a few or more minutes. if it doesnt there are three things that can let it bleed down.

There is a check valve built into the fuel pump that could be stuck open,
An injector could be leaking,
Or the pressure regulator could be leaking.
If it still has problem check your spark plugs to see if they are worn out with too much gap.

injector cracked

When replacing injectors, there are small o-rings on bottom. Make sure that o-rings are still on base of injector before installing.

ingint control module

check for broken pcv valve

cat converter is going bad. have someone rev engine and feel for pressure at tailpipe. i am willing to bet its restricted. did you have the egr fail code? egr valves hardly ever go bad. a bad cat converter will not allow for normal aceleration, even with the pedal to the floor.

Well, which engine is this ?, You will want to find out if it is electrical or fuel problem. What have you done as far as service, changed oil, fuel filter, air filter ect. ?

If you have injection you can't. Check the coolant temperature sensor and the intake air temp sensor as well as the idle air control. First though, clean the throttle body bore where the throttle plate is...often that gets gummed up and doesn't close properly.

Pull airbag you are going to need a wheel puller a pair snap ring pliers and a lock plate compreser all loaner tool avalable at most parts stores. pull wheel them yellow airbag control moduel then comes the lock plate remove it there is small ring locking it onto stearing shaft once you pull that you will be able to see ignition cylinder small star bit screw above it remove it and pull out cylinder. put back together in reverce order

Just an idea - could save a hell of a lot of time and money, but it depends how the key snapped if you can get the glue to stick...
you can put a tiny drop of crazy/super glue on the snapped part of the key, put it in the lock and make it so its perfectly touching the key, you can take the old bit of key out of the lock when it sticks and have a locksmith make you a new key from the two bits... cheaper than an ignition barrell.
use the tiniest speck of glue possible, use a hair or whisker to get a tiny drop of glue onto the key, put it in the same way round it snapped off so the two faces mate together properly - after 2 minutes pull out the key, if it is stuck give it a wiggle and still pull...
any glue that gets in the lock can be removed with nail varnish remover (acetone)
Dont know about how to remove the cylinder sorry...

depending on the extent of cosmetic damage, the parts themselves are usually less then a few hundred.

the fuel filter should be on the back frame railing and can not be cleaned, but must be replaced. Remove the clamps that hold the fuel filter to the fuel line and put the new one in place. It is a simple matter to change and costs around 7 dollars.

You have something that is pulling battery power when the ignition is turned off. Possibly an interior light or an under hood light. Check all components and be sure they are all off when the key is off, this includes glove box light if equiped.

you will find the ground fault in the front light assemblys where the ground goes from the bulb sockets themselves too the body ground! also a (faulty ) turn signal switch on that! model will do exactly!! the same thing!!

4X4 problem can be most anything but on a 90, chances are the transfer case is internally worn out...easier and faster to replace than rebuild.
Heat and cruise may be related...look for a disconnected or broken vacuum line. Overheating may be exactly what you think it is. You need to have a functioning electric fan on there. On a radiator that old, you may need to flush it though. Blocks, especially 4.0's tend to rust internally and plug the cores up with debris (not a bad idea to flush heater too). I removed nearly a half cup of rust from a 92 not long ago...that's a lot considering the small size of the radiator. There may be more or less to each of your problems but I'd check out what I mentioned first. Most important is to stop the overheating. If you kill the engine, the rest is junk. As with anything else, don't change parts 'till you know for sure they are bad.
Good luck

yeah your better off just replacing the switch,your pcm may not be registering it

Make sure that your electric fan is operating and that you have a 50/50 antifreeze coolant mix. Also check that the cap is holding pressure.

if the flywheel from the 92 will bolt on,use that one