2001 Cadillac DeVille - Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

if the front stays up the compressor is working what you have indicates the ride levelling valves to the rear are not working properly you can test the compressor by attaching a pressure gage to the outlet side

The torque converter can't stop working. The converter clutch can, but it won't cause the symptom you're having and neither will the solenoid. Check the fluid level, low level can cause the symptom you're having. If it does this more when cold than hot and/or does it more on hills it's a good indication of low fluid. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/oscar_403cc49e0f00cda7

The up and down is a different lever

Check for broken wiring, blown fuses, possible bad relays, and look at the pressure switch. Some systems have a high pressure switch (some have a low pressure also) that prevent the compressor from running. If it is faulty or damaged, it could be preventing the compressor from running. Wire damage could be possible with front end damage.

I dont know wether to laugh or take you seriously....but just in case, buy a new engine...

If it were mine, the first things I'd do would be to clean the carb or jets, whichever, put a new air filter in, dump a can of Sea Foam in a full gas tank, give it a new gas filter. Could be your thermostat is sticking a bit.

Modular fuel sender assembly is located at the top of the gas tank and is accessible via a fuel sender access panel bolted to the floor inside the trunk. Be sure to follow all safety precautions when working around this tank, and be sure you know how to disconnect the fuel line quick-connectors.

WSW fuse 30 amp .an ACCY fuse 15 amp both are in the under hood fuse box. No relay's .

recalibrate what , PCM/ECM ? engine computer . Disconnect battery cables and touch them together for 10 min.

You won't ever be able to see it on the engine. It is inside the engine, sort of like a "jacket" that surrounds the cylinders. The circulating coolant in the water jacket and around the engine is what keeps the engine from overheating.

When a malfunction such as an open fuse to a module occurs while modules are communicating, a DTC U1001-1254 Loss of 000 Communications is set current. When the modules stop communicating the current DTC U1001-1254 Loss of 000 Communications is cleared but the history DTC remains. When the modules begin to communicate again, the module with the open fuse will not be learned by the other modules so U1000 or U1255 is set current by the other modules. If the malfunction occurs when the modules are not communicating, only U1000 or U1255 is set. Radio quit working shows Code IRC U1000 please help

A class 2 serial data bus is a communication network between control modules on the vehicle ! It is not a single module . The PCM/ECM - engine computer , ABS - air bags , BCM or in the case of your Caddy three computers make up the BCM , DIM ,RIM and the IPM . Your best bet would be to take your vehicle to a qualified repair shop .

The body control system consists of the following 3 modules: • The Dash Integration Module (DIM) • The Instrument Panel Module (IPM) • The Rear Integration Module (RIM) Each of the 3 body control modules integrate a number of functional systems under the control of a single module. Each module is connected to the Class 2 serial data circuit, many of the control functions are implemented by Class 2 messages. Plus they would need to be programmed . Dealer only .

Yes that all sounds like BCM issues are going on.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Where+is+the+fuse+for+the+rear+defroster+on+an+03+trailblazer&biw=1360&bih=650&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj-xrzT8rfQAhXH7SYKHWDVCxQQsAQIKQ#tbm=isch&q=2001+deville+4.6+vacuum+routing Hope this helps

It is located in the steering column (the ignition key receiver is part of it). The obvious question is why you need to locate it - unfortunately, the theft deterrent system is dependent on a number of different modules and sensors, and just replacing or disconnecting it will probably disable your car without fixing whatever problem you are having. Back to a dealer ...

There are a lot of coolant lines around the Northstar engine, but not one called a "purge line" that I am aware of. The coolant system is designed to be a closed system, and is never purged. However, there is a rubber drain line on the pressurized overflow tank that will release coolant on excessive pressure sensed by the rad cap on the tank, or if the rad cap is faulty. If the system has a leak anywhere, it will not hold required pressure and that will always cause overheating. If you are losing coolant, that is the first place to look (bad rad cap, or cracked tank or line from the tank to the rad).

The best way to check this is to take a piece of string and running around all the pulleys. Make sure you compensate for the tensioner. Then go to the auto parts store and much of that size

Check your fuses...

Fuel is probably stale. Pump or pump relay might be stuck. I suggest you check the fuel delivery to the fuel rail. If no delivery the pump isn't working and the supply should be checked and then take the appropriate action depending whether the supply is good or not.