20 Most Recent 1996 Subaru Impreza - Page 6 Questions & Answers

I think you will find it is 2.5 inches. The best exhaust to go for is a Haywood & Scott stainless system. Make sure you replace the downpipe . The design of the factory one is very restictive. You can then go for a 2.5 or 3 inch sustem. They sound wonderful . Also if you are there you might as well go for a set of GT Spec Headers. Unequal length to retail the Impreza burble.

When a clutch goes out, it first gives a warning by slipping for a period of time. If not corrected, eventually there will be "nothing there".

replace the transmission speed sensor.

well i would check the cat. and the turbo wast gate, check iner cooler for clogged system if this dose not help you let me know and i will give you more info is there check eng light on let me know

well need more info did the timing belt jump or what they do not jest go out of time let me know and i may be able to help.redoil

try changing your rev limiter

Your starter is probly very close to your exhaust. What happens is when you are driving it gets to hot and the insides of the starter expand causing it to not turn. When it cools down it works again. This is a fairly common problem when starters start to get old.

there is a clip behind the handle that you must pop off.they make a tool to do it but can get with a screwfriver

Your car is 13 years old. It is possible for the seal to actually wear a groove into the crank shaft or cam shaft end. Which ever is protruding and has a seal. It used to happen on all the older G.M. cars. (60's 70's). Usually with over 100K miles. You may be leaking just enough for the wind to blow the oil back onto the exhaust while driving. I've seen it, done it, and repaired it. One way to tell is to look for tiny oil spot on the lower part of the rear bumper or lower part of trunk lid. Oil sometimes will blow back that far. Now, even if they change the seal, it may not stop the leak. Back in the day, you used to be able to buy a "Sleeve" kit for the crank. It slides over where the groove is so the seal can make contact on an smooth, level surface.
Get a second opinion before moving forward. And be sure to get some sort of warranty if at all possible.
A long shot, see if a mechanic will put it up in the air on a lift and show you where it's leaking from. It should be pretty well spread out over the bottom of the motor and possibly the transmission.

Good Luck and I hope this helps.

If the Coolant is being pushed back out, I would suspect a head gasket. Sorry to tell you that but at least its a Subaru and they built the car better than anyone else. Not a real hard job and parts are less expensive than others. First I would do a compression check to find which head is leaking. Sometimes when you pull a plug it will have water on it. If it is not a bad leak it will just loose coolant and heat up. I wish you luck and have a good day.

Yes the transmission fluid goes in the location of the dipstick. As for the yellow "oil", if you just recently got the car maybe the previous owner put engine oil in the tranny fluid receptor instead of the engine...it's been known to happen. As far as I know, tranny fluid should be red, even if water gets into it, it's still a pinkish color. Maybe better to drain it and replace it. Good luck.

it could be overheating either cooling system or a electronic piece .
are you getting a check engine light ?

the ecu may have recorded the light being on and will need to be put on a computer to be reset,
please rate this advice.

cam and crank seals should be replaced with the second timing belt change along with idler pulleys and water pump as the extra labour and cost is minimal compared to doing the job twice, but that comes down to the professionalism of the person working on the vehicle, you should atleast be educated in the fact so you can make a decision at the time of belt replacement

i had the same problem with my 2003 wrx you have 2 choices on how to fix it the first is take the car to a subaru dealer and they can do it for you. Or you can do it yourself like this under the bonnet at the front of the grill you'll see a row of clips first you have to pop them out to remove the grill fully from the car that will give you access to the 3 or 4 bolts holding the light to the car you have to undo these bolts and remove the entie light from the car this will give you fully access to the park light fixture simply twist it so it pops out the headlight and replace the bulb ..... the spot lights are the same remove the grill and the headlight from the car this makes a gap if you look threw and down this gap you will see the back of the spot light fixture simply twist (unclip it depending on the year of the car) it to remove it and replace the bulb once you have done this bolt the headlight back in and clip the grill back into place

have you tried jerking the steering wheel to the left then right while attempting to turn your ignition key? that happend to me and thats all i did to free the ignition lock up, try it it might work.

Well, it's possible, but it would take a LOT of work. You would also have to replace the wiring harness, multiple sensors, and the ECU for a start...

could be air flow meter