20 Most Recent 1995 Subaru Impreza - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Just pull the fuses until you find the one which has blown.Just as a precaution by the way, these past five years or so I have noticed a lot of these models with the same rear tail light issue. On many of them it's the actual contacts in the bulb housing which have failed. The plastic shroud around the bulb goes brittle over time and made worse with the heat. The casing distorts and allows the base positive contact to sink lower in the housing, thus causing a break in the connection to the bulb. I have repaired a few of these by soldering a blob of solder onto the centre bulb connector, thus raising it and allowing it to contact the bulb again. This is really just a temporary measure however as this repair may fail over time.Good luck.

My advice would be to use the Web Browser and the title "1995 Subaru Impreza shift linkage bushings" or "shift linkage assembly". There is a point where the whole assembly is sold as a unit because the small parts are too much of a bother to stock separately. It is up to the carmaker on how they wish to unitize their parts.If you can find a wrecked car in a Salvage yard try a site like car-parts.com or carparts.com. They ship and have a free request line.I hope my solution is helpful, please rate.

I think that year may have an ignition fuse, if that's not it you might try the igniter, also check to see if the check engine light comes on when you turn the key on, if not you may have a bad ECU (computer).

Check. Coil packs and plugs

I think it is time for you to get a wiring diagram, so you knowwhat your working on,sort off a road map to get around yourfuel systems electrical circuitsTry a local repair shop & ask for a print out from ALLData,Mitchell or whatever data base they have,hopefully someonehas that,otherwise they as lost as you are, but get paid to be

This vehicle suffers a bad power steering pump, it does ur suspension aswell.be easier to find some 1 to plug in to it.

If the leak is between the engine and the transmission, yes.Its also called a front pump seal on some models.

have to remove transmission to do this...can be big job if not car savey.....

Check if you have rough idling as well. You may want to clean out the MAF sensor found at its intake manifold. You may use carb cleaners to spray it or tuner sprays. Other than that it could be loose wiring or vacuum hoses. A faulty or dirt Idle Air control valve may cause the problem.

I would check the injectors for each cylinder, and check for spark in each cylinder.

If the injectors are not firing in all cylinders, it may be a computer.

If spark occurs in some but not all cylinders, it could be an ignition coil.

DISTRIBUTORLESS IGNITION SYSTEM General Information A distributorless ignition system is used on all 2.2L and 2.5L models. The system consists of a cam and crankshaft angle sensor, knock sensor, two ignition coils, an Electronic Control Unit (ECU) and assorted sensors. The system control features a quick response learning control method that compares data stored in the ECU memory to data received from the sensors. Thus, the ECU constantly provides the optimum ignition timing in relation to output, fuel consumption, exhaust gas and other variables. The ECU receives signals from the airflow sensor, water temperature sensor, crank angle sensor, cam angle sensor, knock sensor and other various indicators to judge the operating condition of the engine. It then selects the optimum ignition timing stored in the memory and immediately transmits a primary current OFF signal to the igniter to control the ignition timing. The ECU also receives signals emitted from the knock sensor. Ignition timing is controlled so that advanced ignition timing is maintained immediately before engine knock occurs. Two ignition coils are used, one for the No. 1 and No. 2 cylinders, and one for the No. 3 and No. 4 cylinders. A simultaneous ignition type is employed for each bank of cylinders. This eliminates the distributor and achieves maintenance free operation. Ignition control under normal conditions is performed by the ECU measuring engine revolutions. Using the data it receives, the ECU decides the ignition timing according to engine operation. Ignition control under starting conditions is set by the ECU at 10°BTDC.

you may have bearings going out

you can use mutil diag office i-2010 diagnostic tool to check your car.

Sounds like vapour lock in your fuel or 02 sensor bank one.However you should have check engine light on if so save money and time on the guessing scan for fault codes and repair.

i own the same car, same problem. you'll need a new throttle body, your cold start isnt opening up. DO NOT get one from a junk yard. you'll spend 50 bucks to find out that one does the same thing.. it is a very common problem with subaru's, though very easy to fix and it is for sure a "diy" project all you need is a flathead screwdriver and a 10mm socket and a ratchet