20 Most Recent 1993 Subaru Legacy - Page 3 Questions & Answers

So many faults can cause this so i would advise that you ask a local mechanic to have a look as combined with the fuel economy it could be a auto choke staying on which could be caused by a faulty temperatur sensor but who knows without plugging it in

Yeah,I would do that test,process of elimination,also check the timing.

there should be marks on crank pully and cam belt pully. rotate motor until crank pully timing mark is on zero.the cam belt pully should be lined up with its own mark.number one piston should be at the top of its stroke (top dead centre TDC) and number one valves should be shut. if the cam belt mark is not alined with its own mark remove the belt realine the marks and refit the belt

.an it could very well be the idle control if you just move it a little bit. .. if not clean it ... and Carbon build up

Are you sure its the transmission ecu that is the problem ?
Are you getting any engine ecu error codes ?
Sounds to me like its going into limp home mode.....
Crankshaft sensor ?
Camshaft sensor ?
Engine ecu ?
Thats where I would be looking ........
Looking forward to your reply.

You can get to it by the back seats. They have releases at the base of the headrests, just pull them out. They are on small metal pins and sometimes the pulleys come out, so you might have to use pliers. Hope this helps!

MAP SENSOR or Barometric ABSOLUTE PRESSURE sensor

sounds like your timing may be off, or have a crank shaft postion sensor failing, when it cuts are you losing spark completely? do you have a fuel pressue gauge? whats the pressure? also you could try running it with the map sensor unplugged and see if the condition improves

I always start with the left front because it is closest to the master cylinder, then rr, rf, and lr. Dual diagonal brakes is the reason. take care and good luck

in-dash units require removal of the cosmetic cover before much of anything else..usually the screws are at the sides and bottom of this facing..once removed the front mounting for the radio should be visible..most have bolt flanges on both sides and some have a security bolt in back behind the unit thats hard to remove.requires reaching up and behind the unit to take off. then disconnecting the wires from the unit..and reconnecting whatever youre putting in its place..

look for rust or corrosion near the seam of the bulb and the boot- spray with wd40 and let soak for a bit and retry with good firm grip wiggle slightly side to side..if not get a new replacement socket and bulb at parts store and install entire setup in ..repost please..

Here's a link to the water pump removal.

I would take the starter out and have it bench tested to verify if it has gone bad in the mean time.

Check the battery for bad connections and also for a full charge.

Check that the battery connections are clean and shiny and new looking when removed from the battery.

How old is the battery? 3 years is a typical life of most batteries sold and installed in cars these days. If unsure, then try a new one from the store which is fully charged to test, or connect a battery charger to your existing battery to see if it will take a charge.

Trickle charge your battery for up to 3 days to get a full charge on it.

Good luck on this repair.

No easy way to say this but rebuid or replace. No easy way to go around this. Your best bet is go to a junk yard and find a replacent. Cost is up to the junk yard. But it is cheaper to replace than fix. But do not get a trans with to many miles on it, it may fail you later.

Thermostat is faulty. Change it to fix your problem.

I am going to assume you are raising the body with the jack.If so, you would have to raise the car most of the capacity of the jack ( 6 - 12 inches) to get the wheel off the ground.This is normal. If you have a floor jack you might be able to put it under the spindle that holds the hub bearing.

are there any codes ? sounds like a bad throttle position sensor and or a idle air control valve