20 Most Recent 1997 Mercury Sable - Page 5 Questions & Answers

oh no you have a blow head gasket sorry to tell you that. the reason I say that is the cooling system pressure is about 15 psi and the cylinder where your engine burns gas is around 150 psi which will have no problem overcoming that tiny coolant cap. To confirm this take of the radiator cap and look inside. If you coolant is not a clear but very dirty you can't see through it like drinking water.

If it's just the tire, you probably need a front-end alignment. If it's the tire and wheel (wheel being hotter than tire), I'd suspect a wheel bearing, dragging brake or both. Good luck.

Inspection for what? Emission or sale

Unlikely as the heater hoses just supply water to the heater core and return to the engine . You can blank of the heater hoses and there should be not alteration to performance. Lacking power is a separate problem that you get an answer for if you run the fault codes .

This could be your starter not engaging the flywheel. You can have the starter tested on or off the car at any large parts store. Testing is usually free. Sometimes oil or dirt can get in the starter drive. Even just normal wear and tear can cause it as well.

Follow the upper radiator hose to the engine to where it's held on with the hose clamp. The hose is clamped to the thermostat housing. Remove that housing to reveal the thermostat.

it sounds like you need your shifter cable adjusted or replaced or you may have a major motor mount problem that when you decel and acel you are rocking that cable out of postion. but i think it will just take a small adjustment. good luck

Code 304 is for a miss on cylinder 4. Could be a spark plug or fuel injector issue.

Have the fault codes read. Replace faulty items. Use only genuine items as non-genuine replacement are not always compatible with the OEM fitted CPU units.

sounds like cylinders are not hitting right

Look into the fuel pressure regulator or the fuel pump relay. Pretty common after changing the fuel pump out.

This could be the fuel pump relay. There is also what they call a fuel sending relay. I believe you would always show empty even though you have gas. Lastly those after market pumps can sometimes be bad right off the shelf! I would check the relay first.

Not too hard at all, even easier if you have it up on a lift. But if I remember right the pan is easy to get to without having to remove anything else. It is a good idea to go ahead and replace the filter while you are there. Make sure you get the rubber seal out of the valve body when you remove the old filter.

Your brakes are probably rusted up. From sitting and not moving the inside of your brake drum has a lip rusted around the brake shoe. If you get an some solid dry pavement lightly rock the car back and forth from drive to reverse. This should free up the wheel. If it does not then you will need to get the wheel and drum off and see what is the problem in there.

Did you try to reset.May stay a day off.

Well if it really is showing P1000 its not a problem code.That code means the car has not been driven enough to allow a full test.In most cases it has to be driven for at least 50 miles, in stop and go traffic, highway speeds, and at idle. Once it goes thru the entire range of operation the code should clear itself.The memory is erased when you disconnect the battery or use a scanner to clear codes. The system has to run for a certain time to learn the normal sensor values again.

Hi Meggian,here's a link to rear strut removal.

they are under the dash, but its highly unlikly that both would go bad at the same timeyour promlem is probly in the steering colum