i cant move this post to mercury where it belongs so.....
so will pretend its a Mercury JEEP, OMG, and Obamanation.LOL
ill answer for you. (works on all cars, the era and automatic trans)
as poster said its NO CRANK , symptoms.
you are barking up the wrong tree, doing simple tests solves this easy. if the car only cranks in Neutral the park/neutral switch IS BAD (need more proof?, sure a voltmeter does just that)
! if you hot wired the starter solenoid, the car cranks, perfectly
so is not that, nor battery , just in 5min tests. that.
(hot wired the solenoid small wire !)
so the KEY line is dead, lets focus on KEY LINE.
starts and key and ends at starter solenoid tiny wire.
and in between (love to fail) are THINGs.
remember we can see your old car. not see hacks, and such.
i can spot hacks in 1/10th of second, can you>?
- bad park-neutral switch, or PRNDL, bad.
- bad relay, for same,
- bad wires, connectors end to end this key line,
- bad starter switch if fails park and neutral (easy huh)
- hacks, here, alarms, remote start bs, and endless possibles.
a $10 volt meter solves every failure here, easy, ask.
now ILL access the online FSM to see if there are surprises.
3 engines, and not stated in your post nor VIN,,so i can figure it.
3.0 L, no RELAY
3.0L and 3.4L SHO engine. both HAVE THIS RELAY !
see the PRNDL switch on the right, of dwg.?
on the non SHO, it connects to solenoid directly.
so see that 12v i marked on right , ?
must be about 11vdc minimum cranking, at all points
on the right, in park or neutral.
if one mode fails the switch for THAT mode is bad.
fails is like 0v, 1v, 8v
the rule of solenoids is 8v is the fail point. 8v is chatter point.
seen in alaska mostly.
the relay be better guess than $200 starter/battery.
