1997 Lexus LS 400 - Page 5 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Injectors may be faulty.

Is this an automatic or a manual transmission?

Sounds like a bad coil. i would swap the coils to run 2,4,6,and 8 and see if those started to misfire. If 1,3,5,7 still misfire I would do a compression test. Has the timing belt been replaced yet.

You really need this fixed fast for if you have raw fuel coming from your exhaust your catalytic converters must not be working. If they were working they would be running a extremely high temperatures and be a fire hazard. You most likely have damaged exhaust valves causing this problem, a compression test will confirm if this is the case. The other possible causes are bad injectors, coils, spark plugs and ignition timing.

Check battery and connection.

It's located inside the transmission so you'll have to drop the transmission pan for access. The attached document goes over removing the pan and identifies the solenoid. Good luck. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach§ion=attach&attach_id=6901

You could go to youtube.com and search for "Torque Head Bolts". They have a lot of those there. Hope this helps.

Check the Spark Plugs , Leads , Points and Distributor units are serviceable and on fully and correctly. Go to a Motorfactors and buy some Carb cleaner. Take off the Air pipe to the Carburettor and clean the carb as best you can with a piece of cloth , getting rid of residual oil and muck left over the years of use.. Spray the Carb cleaner in and wipe again . Start the engine without replaceing the Air pipe. Use the throttle / Accelerator with a few pumps , it will sound a bit noisey. . Knock the engine off again and refit the Air pipe to the Carburettor. Take it for a spin on a fast road to try and clear the residual stuff from the Carb. You can use some Petrol Additive to help clean the internal bits every few refills of petrol.

Shouldn't need to remove. Bolt on side that adjusts tension. Release tension buy turning bolt counterclockwise . Tensioner should move toward engine and release belt.

Sounds like one of the pulleys is not turning. May be the A/C compressor clutch locked up. Thanks

speed sensor is bad if already replaced check instrument panel

there are 2 different faults here . replacing the front brakes will not cause your second problem.Run the fault codes first to see what may be recorded.

you might want to try to check the fuse box locate the fuse for the specific light and check that is not burned. you might also want to check the actual light bolt to see if the light bolt is not burned out.

You have small gas charged shocks that are supposed to support the weight of the hood that have probably lost their charge and need replaced. Until you can get them replaced you can find a bar, or piece of wood that is the right length or cut to length to prop the hood up, or you can clamp a pair of vice grips to the shaft of one of the bad shocks to keep it from going down on you.

Could be crankshaft sensor.

More details would help but I would check the fuses first.

check power to your rear tailight bulbs positive to see if they even get power with the headlight switch on. if your headlights come on then it's probably not a switch issue. Just check and make sure that you have power and ground to your tailights. It sounds most likely like an electrical problem. The best way to find the problem is to get an electrical wiring diagram and go through the system. But definately first check power and ground at the tailight bulbs to start.

Have a front end or tire repair shop check this out.

If all four tires are at the proper pressure then check the spare. It has a sensor too.

Turn the Key OVER and see if you can rotate it then. Are your Wheels turned HARD and the Steering Wheel Locked? Are your Wheels against a CURB and not allowing the Steering Wheel to rotate to remove the Locking Mechanism to go freely?