1997 Lexus LS 400 - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

how do I replace the air filter

Sorry for the delayed response....
I am personally going back to answer your unanswered question.
I do not know if you still need the answer, but am answering it in case you do.

Click on the following: free, direct Link. It has the Serpentine Belt Diagram for your 1997 Lexus LS400 4.0L DOHC V8. It also Instructional and Directional Diagrams that will help you.

http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/1997/make/lexus/model/ls_400/1997_lexus_ls_400_drive_belt_routing_diagram.htm

Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!

give these websites a try www.alldatadiy.com and www.autozone.com are stop by your local Lexus dealership in the service department and ask someone to help you a service manger are a service writer will help you because it make he or she look good wish you the best of luck Michigan Man.

If you are referring to the rear brake lights and not the red brake warning light, then i suspect either a faulty brake switch(usually located above the brake pedal) or one that is not adjusted properly.

Change the fan resistor it should be located under dash near the glove box ther's a rectangular electrical plug going to it it should be located somewhere on the heater box. These usually go bad because of the constant condensation and temp. changes present.

Control panel and or switch may be at fault

Drivers side firewall, right beside the head. Its best to be able to see high side pressure as well, using a set of 134a manifold gauges. Do not overfill....Tip....When you remove cap(s) listen carefully for hiss. This indicates leak past schrader valve of service port. To tighten, keep in mind, one has to press down and to the right at the same time, as one wants to avoid loosing freon unnecessarily.Just a quick, light..but fairly firm twist to right, then get off it. You'll probably get a short little shot of freon and oil so protect your eye's and face (this is not an option)The tightening procedure detailed here helps prevent further leaking and cooler car+people! Caution: If you have any doubts about your ability to service any high pressure connection, Let a mechanic do it. This is a small price to pay to keep everyone safe. theroad

Your system may be low on refrigerant. You can fix this your self. Go to an auto parts store and tell them the problem you are having. They can sell you a can of refrigerant with a hose built on that you can use to fill it back up. I would suggest that you spend a little more and get one with a gage built in. The gage will help you to not overfill the system. Just follow the intructions on the can and your all set!

It sounds like the evaparator drain is plugged. You will need to look from under the car. There should be a small rubber drain hose sticking out from the bottom of the floor under the car, about where your feet would be when sitting in the car. Use a coat hanger or something similar to unplug the hose. Be careful when you do so, as a stream of liquid will probabaly come out.

if your car doesnt even turn over when you try to start it then I would check connections to the starter and alternator, and grounds for corrosion and disconnects.

usually its either a combo of screws on the outside of the lense and inside the trunk there are plastic washers you have to remove. Also check for metal spring clips. they release when you pull on them.that should help

I would use a multimeter and check if the voltage changes at the blower motor, as you turn up the blower speed on the controls. If it goes up, you need a blower motor. If not, the a/c amplifier.

When it comes to independent auto shops, its tough to get them to take responsibility if they did something wrong, thats why most people with a car as nice as your wouldnt trust it to just any shop. Theres nothing in a timing belt job that would cause the radio to stop working, unless some connector is loose or a bad ground somewhere. There are 3 fuses you may want to check... Radio No. 1 20A, Radio No 2 7.5A, Dome 7.5A. These all send power to the radio's circuit. If all 3 are good, It would have to be an internal problem in the radio.

yes you can use 50/50 coolant and do not need to add water also you have to put in enough coolant in the car and to make sure the car runs until it gets to temp to make sure you have all the bubbles out of the system

If the car ran and got you home after a jump start I doubt the alternator is bad. Check your battery. And remember never ever disconnect the battery cable with the engine running.

in the frony under the hood on the passenber side at about the middle you will see it it have a belt that goes around it

First check if the compressor comes on at all when you push the A/C button inside the car while it running. if the RPMs don't move at all, it's probably not coming on.

Also, check all the fuses and make sure they are okay. Your user manuall will give you the location of the fuse.

Next, check the freon level. When there is not enough freon in the system, it will automatically keep the compressor turned off so it doesn't burn it up. One way to see is to add some freon to your system and see if it kicks the compressor on. You can buy a can of freon at any walmart, and you just need a hose to hook up to your "low side" on A/C system and add the freon while the car is running and the A/C is turned on. You will hear it "kick on" when it has enough pressure in the system.

If that works, and a few days go by and it quits, you probably have a leak somewhere.

Check the ignition switch, there is battery voltage to the fuel pump and ignition, because the engine starts with switch in the start position, now check the above with the switch in the run position, If there is no voltage replace the switch.

traction control is for control of the traction of the drive tires Tale it to a professional brake shop for a proper diagnosis grabbing brakes is more likely no brake pads and / or damaged rotor discs

sensor 1 is the sensor located before the catalytic converter and bank 1 is the side of the engine with cylinder #1 so if i'm correct and you have a V-6 that would be the rear of the engine by firewall and the sensor would be in the exhaust manifold