1996 Lexus LS 400 - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

You could go to youtube.com and search for "Torque Head Bolts". They have a lot of those there. Hope this helps.

Check the Spark Plugs , Leads , Points and Distributor units are serviceable and on fully and correctly. Go to a Motorfactors and buy some Carb cleaner. Take off the Air pipe to the Carburettor and clean the carb as best you can with a piece of cloth , getting rid of residual oil and muck left over the years of use.. Spray the Carb cleaner in and wipe again . Start the engine without replaceing the Air pipe. Use the throttle / Accelerator with a few pumps , it will sound a bit noisey. . Knock the engine off again and refit the Air pipe to the Carburettor. Take it for a spin on a fast road to try and clear the residual stuff from the Carb. You can use some Petrol Additive to help clean the internal bits every few refills of petrol.

Shouldn't need to remove. Bolt on side that adjusts tension. Release tension buy turning bolt counterclockwise . Tensioner should move toward engine and release belt.

Sounds like one of the pulleys is not turning. May be the A/C compressor clutch locked up. Thanks

speed sensor is bad if already replaced check instrument panel

there are 2 different faults here . replacing the front brakes will not cause your second problem.Run the fault codes first to see what may be recorded.

you might want to try to check the fuse box locate the fuse for the specific light and check that is not burned. you might also want to check the actual light bolt to see if the light bolt is not burned out.

You have small gas charged shocks that are supposed to support the weight of the hood that have probably lost their charge and need replaced. Until you can get them replaced you can find a bar, or piece of wood that is the right length or cut to length to prop the hood up, or you can clamp a pair of vice grips to the shaft of one of the bad shocks to keep it from going down on you.

Could be crankshaft sensor.

More details would help but I would check the fuses first.

check power to your rear tailight bulbs positive to see if they even get power with the headlight switch on. if your headlights come on then it's probably not a switch issue. Just check and make sure that you have power and ground to your tailights. It sounds most likely like an electrical problem. The best way to find the problem is to get an electrical wiring diagram and go through the system. But definately first check power and ground at the tailight bulbs to start.

Have a front end or tire repair shop check this out.

If all four tires are at the proper pressure then check the spare. It has a sensor too.

Turn the Key OVER and see if you can rotate it then. Are your Wheels turned HARD and the Steering Wheel Locked? Are your Wheels against a CURB and not allowing the Steering Wheel to rotate to remove the Locking Mechanism to go freely?

Depending what part of the country this car was purchased originally, the alarm system can be different. These are after market systems installed by the distributor or dealership. Different systems are connected differently. Either way the alarm system is connected to the engine controller and or the main electrical circuit. This has to be removed and the circuit reconnected. I would advise taking to a car alarm specialist and have them replace or remove it.

-Mostly coil. Good luck Mai

You have a short circuit or a bad switch somewhere near the fuse box or behind the fuse box as Ecu is also been not getting the complete voltage so kindly check the short circuit while testing from the battery wire to fusebox .Do it early before it blows your ecu.

Yes near the passenger side of the car close to the floor is the actuator, it is about 6 inches away from your blower motor closer to the center of the car, there are three screws holding it in and one is very difficult. Once you pull it out you can turn the door by hand, just have the heat blowing when you do it so you know when you have it on heat. after you have done this to get heat fixed for now watch your actuator as you turn it from cold to heat and back again, "if it turns then your blender door is the issue. if it doesn't then check the voltage going to it, if you do not have any pull the switch out and check for voltage there. If your actuator doesn't move and you have voltage, the actuator is the issue. If you have no voltage at the actuator and you have voltage to the switch it is the switch that is broken. hope this helps you. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/brock_d67526d2a834c47e

Okay, I am not convinced it is the spark. But there is a chance. The fact that torching the plugs allowed it to start tells me you engine is flooding. Do you smell gas? If you open the throttle body with the air cleaner off, does vapor come out when the engine had recently cranked? If it is electrical, then power to both ignition modules is failing, which means A. the ECM is not providing power to the modules, or B. The engine crank sensor has failed. The Cause could be a bad connection to the ECM.A scope will indicate whether or not the proper pulses are being input and output from the ECM to the modules. Of course it will need to be tested when it is not working compared to when it is. When cranking, the tach should move indicating rotation of the crank, if not, there is a good chance the crank sensor is no good.

Have the cold start fuel inkector checked for flow.