1995 Lexus LS 400 - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Have a front end or tire repair shop check this out.

If all four tires are at the proper pressure then check the spare. It has a sensor too.

Turn the Key OVER and see if you can rotate it then. Are your Wheels turned HARD and the Steering Wheel Locked? Are your Wheels against a CURB and not allowing the Steering Wheel to rotate to remove the Locking Mechanism to go freely?

Depending what part of the country this car was purchased originally, the alarm system can be different. These are after market systems installed by the distributor or dealership. Different systems are connected differently. Either way the alarm system is connected to the engine controller and or the main electrical circuit. This has to be removed and the circuit reconnected. I would advise taking to a car alarm specialist and have them replace or remove it.

-Mostly coil. Good luck Mai

You have a short circuit or a bad switch somewhere near the fuse box or behind the fuse box as Ecu is also been not getting the complete voltage so kindly check the short circuit while testing from the battery wire to fusebox .Do it early before it blows your ecu.

Yes near the passenger side of the car close to the floor is the actuator, it is about 6 inches away from your blower motor closer to the center of the car, there are three screws holding it in and one is very difficult. Once you pull it out you can turn the door by hand, just have the heat blowing when you do it so you know when you have it on heat. after you have done this to get heat fixed for now watch your actuator as you turn it from cold to heat and back again, "if it turns then your blender door is the issue. if it doesn't then check the voltage going to it, if you do not have any pull the switch out and check for voltage there. If your actuator doesn't move and you have voltage, the actuator is the issue. If you have no voltage at the actuator and you have voltage to the switch it is the switch that is broken. hope this helps you. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/brock_d67526d2a834c47e

Okay, I am not convinced it is the spark. But there is a chance. The fact that torching the plugs allowed it to start tells me you engine is flooding. Do you smell gas? If you open the throttle body with the air cleaner off, does vapor come out when the engine had recently cranked? If it is electrical, then power to both ignition modules is failing, which means A. the ECM is not providing power to the modules, or B. The engine crank sensor has failed. The Cause could be a bad connection to the ECM.A scope will indicate whether or not the proper pulses are being input and output from the ECM to the modules. Of course it will need to be tested when it is not working compared to when it is. When cranking, the tach should move indicating rotation of the crank, if not, there is a good chance the crank sensor is no good.

Have the cold start fuel inkector checked for flow.

I'd have to guess that one of the door switches has failed. Check one by one and replace the bad one.

Need to know what year and what engine size you have in order to help....

Check the fuel filter and the fuel pump. Also check fuses.

Which fuse??

Look wireing harness that is close to it and strip the tubeing from or tape and see for a broken wire

it's an extremely hard thing to do without a diagnostic computer, because you need to see its reading compared to other variables while the engine is running.

battery and connection,spark plugs,fuel filter,air filter,starter.

Take a heat gun heat up line and pinch it shut.

Well I would first ask why you would want them on. The computer grounds the fan relay when the fans are needed.They don't run until the ac is on or the engine reaches 220 degrees.Sometimes smoke in the radiator is a sign of a leaking head gasket.

The code for the sensor is the giveaway.The computer does not know how much fuel to give the injectors without that sensor working. The computer uses a factory set default reading.Assuming the cooling system is full of fluid, you should be able to test the circuit and the sensor with a meter and a scanner. The sensor is a resistance variable that takes a 5 volt reference from the computer and changes it depending on the resistance in the sensor.The sensor should read different resistance at different engine temps, and the harness should carry the voltage back to the computer. The scanner should show the sensor reading as the engine warms up.

HelloThe Engine and Automatic Transmission (not applicable to manual transmissions) in this vehicles drive train are fully electronically controlled by a computer called the PCM and TCM (Power Train Control Module, Transmission Control Module). When a problem like this or other drive-ability related problems occurs the computer stores a record of the problem (there are of course some exceptions to this, like the fuel pump, engine coolant temperature sensor and MAF sensor for instance) in the form of a fault code in its memory, to read these fault codes you must have the systems memory scanned with a special tool. Once the fault code(s) are read you then must perform the appropriate diagnostic testing to find and resolve the problem(s) DO NOT REPLACE ANY PARTS UNTIL A TRAINED TECHNICAIN HAS DIAGNOSED THE PROBLEM TO AVOID SPENDING YOUR HARD EARNED MONEY ON PARTS THAT MAY NOT CORRECT THE PROBLEM. Also always check fuel pressure for correct spec for your make and engine type.