20 Most Recent 1995 Lexus LS 400 - Page 6 Questions & Answers

check gear linkage,,may have just poped off?

Sounds like vehicle speed sensor (VSS). But before you try to fix this on your own I recommend taking it to transmission shop and see what they say. The VSS on this car is a pain to get to on your back.

to replace starter , remove air intake chamber completely, go to worshop , its located in midddle of engine, its a hard job

owners manual

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do you hear the starter click or try to turn the engine. Most likely it is your starter. The contactors wear over the time/the number of starts over the years. You can get a rebuilt starter or buy a new one. If you are up to the challenge you can but repair kits to rebuilt it. It a 300-400 dollar job at the dealer.

If you go to Autozone or Oreillys they will scan the car for free. You also need to have the old trouble codes erased to see if repairs are effective.

What I have a problem with is the car is capable of showing several defects at once. It is unusual for several items to be bad before 1 item shows up. Each sensor should have coded separately and earlier. Also true for the CAT converter.

Try this diagram and hopefully it will help you out.

. The air filter is on the passenger side right behind the passenger head under the hood. To access it you must use have a socket wrench and a 10 mm socket. 1. Go to the driver side under the hood near the battery. In front of the battery there a then cover that you must lift up. Once you have lifted this cover, there is a silver screw that is holding the air cover directly over the radiator. Remove the cover and then loosen the screw to take the center air cover off from over the radiator.
2. While working your way to the right, you will notice there is another cover on the passenger side. Remove this cover and you will then see the air filter. The air filter is big round and has a latch. The only way that you can access the air filter is by removing the 3 screws that hold stable to the air induction which is connected to the throttle plate.
3. Remove these screws with the same 10 mm socket and also loosen the lowest clamp on the air induction so you can take just the air filter housing out. You may have to move back and forth to wiggle out.
4. Once you have wiggled out the air filter housing, you can unlatch the air filter and then replace.
5. Then reverse the instructions to reinstall.

Before I post this for you, I just wanted to let you know that you can buy an aftermarket harness that plugs right into your existing harness. Then it allows you to hook up to the wires without cutting your factory wires. They might even have it at Wal-Mart for less than $15. Anyway here are the specs. Don't forget to vote if this helped you out: Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Blue/Yellow
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Gray
Car Radio Ground Wire: Brown
Car Radio Illumination Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: 5 1/4′
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: Doors
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Pink
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Purple
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: 6′
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: Rear Door
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Black
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Red
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): White

Not knowing what you have done and when, below are the normal intervals for Checks and Replacements:
If you have not done something in a while, or can't remember when it was done: go ahead and do it now to keep your vehicle on schedule.
Every 250 miles: (Every Week)
Check Automatic Transmission Fluid Level.
Check Battery Electrolyte Level, Post and Connections
Check Brake Fluid Level.
Check Engine Oil Level.
Check Engine Level + Reservoir
Check Horn Function.
Check Operation(s) of ALL Lights.
Check Power Steering Fluid Level
Check Tires and Air Pressure Levels (Don't Forget the Spare)
Check Windshied Fluid Level
Every 3,000 miles: (Every 3 to 4 Months)
Change Oil and Filter.
Every 7,500 miles: (Every 6-months)
Rotate the Tires.
Check and Clean Battery
Check Cooling System Hoses & Connections for Leaks & Damage,
Check the Exhaust System.
Check the Condition of All Vacuum Hoses & Connections.
Check Wiper Blades. Replace if needed.
Check for "play" in Steering Linkages and Balljoints.
Every 9,000 miles: (Every 9-months)
Check the Brakes: Pads, Rotors, Calipers and Hoses.
Lubricate the Tie Rod Ends and Ball Joints.
Check the Drive Axles, CV Joint Boots: Inner and Outer.
Check Suspension: Coils, Struts and Shocks.
Every 15,000 miles: (Every Year)
Replace Air Filter
Change Automatic Fluid and Filter.
Check Fuel System Hoses & Lines and Connections.
Check Drivebelts/Surpentine Belts.
Every 30,000 miles: (Every 2-Years)
Drain and Replace the Engine Coolant Fluid
Flush Coolant System.
Check and Replace PVC Valve.
Replace Spark Plugs.
Replace Ignition Wires
Check Distributor/Electronic Ignition Coil.
Check Operation of ALL Seatbelts.
Check EVAP Emission System Hoses and Connections
Every 60,000 miles:
Replace Fuel Filter.

Let me know if this helped, or if you have any additional information or questions. Contact me at FixYa.com!

This can be normal for the car. If the car starts shaking violently or is at an RPM over 2500 during the idle, then you have a problem but if it is lower still, then you should be fine. Cars will generally idle higher to warm up the engine and then return to a normal idle when it is cold. As long as this only happens in the cold, it probably is fine. If anything, go to an AutoZone and get the car scanned for free to see if any codes pop up.

Let me know what you find.


Benjamin

Make sure coolant level is good and no leaks. Check that belts are there and tight( when you push down on belts with finger it should only move about half to one inch). Also check temp. with hand held thermometer at ends of rad. hoses at the motor. Temp reading should concur with car gauge ( if not gauge maybe faulty) If all is good consider thermostat replacement ASAP

heater motor has a short in it createing a severe draw that takes voltage away from the igniton switch also if it has been doing this for a while? then you may have to replace or repair the plug on the ignition switch

Yes your right its the soleniod, might need the wires cleaning up that connect to the starter motor sometimes they go rusty so the connection is not good enough, worth cleaning before you replace it.

Check your connections to to the battery and to to voltage regulator which is where one of the red cables from the battery leads to. Take it to your closest Advance auto to check the battery and alternator for free.

Most likely I would say is the tension idler or the largest pulley

$1500 to $2500

Chk the -- wire to the speakers.

it is not a fuse it is not caused by the shop, u have a fault in the electronic engine or emission controls, that is the only thing that turns on the check engine light.