1994 Honda Prelude - Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Could be the connections from the ignition switch to the solenoid or it could just have a bad ignition switch, a bad starter solenoid, or a bad starter motor.

Loosen the lug nuts (turning counter-clockwise) to finger tight on the front wheel with the damaged CV joint. Buy, borrow or rent a CV nut socket. Some auto parts stores will sell you one for about $30 and refund your money when you return it. Because the CV nut in the center of the wheel hub is locked in place with a safety tab, it is loosened initially with a long breaker bar or a hollow pipe placed over the ratchet handle to increase the torque needed to break the nut free. Loosen to finger tightness.

2 Set safety brakes and jack up the front of the car toward the side of the damaged CV joint using at least a 2 1/2-ton jack. Both the car and the jack should be on a hard, level surface and the lifting point must be a load-bearing member on the chassis or engine cradle. Place two jack stands under the front end and slowly lower the car onto the jack stands so the car chassis is fully resting on the stands. Now, pull out the jack and move it out of the way.

3 Remove the wheel lug nuts and pull off the wheel from the hub. If it doesn't cooperate, kick the bottom of the tire sidewall with the back of your heel or the flat of your hand to dislodge it. Unscrew the center CV nut. To dislodge the male spline outboard end of the CV joint that fits into the female spline in the back of the wheel hub, take the CV nut and screw it back on three or four turns, then strike it with a hammer to partially disengage the splines.

4 Remove the ball joint stud on the lower control arm from its socket in the spindle behind the wheel hub, after you remove a locking bolt, cotter pin or other device that holds the ball joint stud that protrudes from the lower control arm. Then, wedge a pry bar (called a pickle fork) between the tie rod and sway bar. To gain greater leverage, insert the pry bar handle into a length of pipe and apply downward pressure to remove the ball joint stud from the spindle.

5 Remove the CV joint and shaft. With the lower ball joint disconnected from the wheel spindle, the hub can be moved to the side just enough to remove the outer CV joint from the spindle socket in the back of the wheel hub. Do not stretch the brake line that is attached to the wheel brake cylinder as you move the hub aside. With the outboard end of the shaft free of the wheel, pull the shaft straight out from the transmission housing. Because of the labor involved with repairing or replacing CV joints, it's more cost effective to simply replace the entire shaft assembly including the two CV joints and boots.

6 Install the new shaft and CV joint assembly. Clean the transmission seal that came off the old unit; pack it with grease and place it over the inboard spline of the new unit before inserting new shaft into transmission. Make sure splines are lined up before tapping the other end of the shaft with a hammer to seat it in its socket. Carefully insert the other end of the shaft back into the wheel hub and loosely thread on the new CV bolt that came with the assembly.

7 Reinstall the ball joint stud into the spindle by re-inserting the pry bar between the tie rod and the sway bar and leveraging down the lower control arm with the ball joint stud positioned just under the spindle hole. Then release pressure on the pry bar so the ball joint stud re-seats into the spindle. Push the wheel hub all the way onto the shaft spline to seat and torque down the CV nut tight. With a flat head screwdriver tap the lip of the new CV nut into the groove cut into the screw end. Now, re-attach the ball joint locking bolt, put the tire back, replace lug nuts and tighten. Remove the car from the jack stands and finish tightening the tire lug nuts.

go to autozone or cal them they can give you the timing & rotation and fireing order

fit a new reversing light switch

No, your car is set up for hydraulic transmission linkage and the Integra is a cable clutch. The mounting would also be a nightmare. The Integra's front motor mount is way different than the Accord and Prelude. Wiring harness would be another nightmare. Just find an Si, they are pretty cheap now.

Don't buy a new one, just pry the cover off of it with a flat head screwdriver and look close where all the sharp pins are sticking up on the board to find the broken solder connection(s). Heat the faulty pin with a soldering iron until the solder puddles around it and your good to go. The crack in the solder will be smaller than a human hair, look close & wiggle it and you'll see the loose connection. There is usually no need to add solder, what is there is enough, it just needs melted again.

In the meantime you can tap the relay while you're tuning the key and it will usually start. Good luck...

Suggest switching to a synthetic oil, they tend to flow better in the cold.

probably a rod knock

Should be, blue with white stripe, is constant 12 v+
Yellow with red stripe, should be switched 12v+ (only has power when key on)

First look in the owners manual. If your manual is missing, you can buy one cheap off of ebay.com Another thing you can do is call the dealer and ask them for the security code. You will have to remove your CD player and give them the serial code loacted on the top of the unit

yes the relay is located under the hood with the fuse box

checkout the headlight switch and the ground and give the websites a try its www.alldatadiy.com and www.autozone.com if all fails stop by your local library and get your hands on a Haynes auto repair manual for your car also take the headlight out and check the plugs to the headlights and the wires wish you the best of luck Michigan Man

IF YOU GOING TO DO THE WORK YOURSELF, YOU HAVE TO PURCHASE A REPAIR MANUAL FOR IT AT YOUR LOCAL AP STORE. READ UP ON IT AND GET PREPARED. SOME ALTERNATORS HAVE TO TAKEN OUT FROM UNDERNEATH.

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html#mainrelay see EFI Main Relay, half way down page

Find the egr and clean it's insides with carb cleaner wherever possible.

Try taking all fuses out (engine bay box and larger fusebox to right of drivers right foot), checking for poor/dirty fuse contacts. Check all visible wiring plugs/sockets for looseness & wire damage (could be rubbing of something). Could be something loose going to ECU box.

Clean the throttle body thoroughly with carb cleaner - and unbolt the air flow unit and do same to that (gauze gets clogged -unit is bolted to front of throttle body with two bolts & a couple of small water hoses to it as well as wires). Just possible that air flow sensor is getting damp & is the final push to it thinking that engine is still cold, which enriches the petrol mixture (chokes), hence stalling attitude. Lights could be the Oxygen sensor (or others) reading appalling exhaust mixtures, due to over-rich mixture.

May be the main relay - under the steering column - rectangular box 40mm x 25mm (?) with 8-way plug into it from the underside, just to offside of column. May be easisest to leave the case and bracket in place and unclip the insides - two moulded little clips , one each end. Use torch! Check/resolder joints on circuit board. Frequent problem apparently.

Probably both computers are faulty. Old age and vibrations crack the relay soldered joints inside the comuter (behind rear seat). Sometime invisible cracks, so resolder all relay connections to the board. Disconnect battery; remove rear seat (LHS - two pull-clips under front of seat)) and seat back; unbolt wires etc, unbolt steelwork & computer; open computer case; circuit board with copper strips to it has two black boxes (relays; remove this circuit board & resolder relay-to-circuit board joints. Check other circuit board for bulging capacitors & replace as required with same values. Probably cure all ills - cured all mine!