Top 20 1994 Honda Prelude Questions & Answers

The fuel pumps the fuel into the engine from the tank. If you can hear it running , then you need to hook up a pressure gauge to see how muck pressure you have. If you have enough pressure then check the injectors to see if they are getting current from the computer to inject the fuel to the cylinders.

Full drain including the Torque converter or just the fluid in the pan?? Makes a huge difference. Also all fluid levels are checked with the transmission fluid hot. The pan holds about 2.5 US quarts, add two and check the dipstick I=engine running in park, add until it is just at the bottom of the safe zone and drive the car get the fluid hot to the touch and recheck and top off as needed.

Hello, I don't know of a TBC light for Honda but there is a TDC... If that's what you meant to type. Its the "Top Dead Center" sensor The TDC (top dead center) positioning sensor is another name for your crankshaft position sensor. This sensor measures the position of your crankshaft and helps with the proper firing of your spark plugs when you start your engine. The TDC sensor on the '97 Honda Accord is located on the underside of the engine block. Replacement TDC sensors can be purchased at your Honda dealership. This is not a difficult repair and can be done in about 15 minutes. Read more : http://www.ehow.com/how_7918547_replace-sensor-1997-honda-accord.html I hope that helps.... Have a great weekend

would say its the cam or crank sensor, failing them the coil pack is over heating. hope this helps these the main problems that can do this.

Crank or cam sensor or computer failed

what volts does it say at the coil ?

so , no clues as to what you did, to do THAT? sigh.

what engine? fails hot engine, or cold engine and what engine of the many? seems dont work in repairs. ever do a tuneup ever? sinces it sometimes runs we can check off bad engine. of the 4. here they are. NO STARTS: 1: loss of 12vdc electric power to the EFI system. (dash lights dim?) 2: bad engine (skip this) 3: bad spark , seems is not an option here, we test all spark at all cylinders using a good new test spark plug. Its a honda, and we check timing, too,, using , a timing light. if the spark is good and timing is bad, then the timing belt slipped if it slips more, the valve in the head bend. end of motor. sometimes no starts, saves the engine, from itself. so i do spark 100% or better, on all honda's, i do a cylinder leak down test by hand so i dont MAKE IT WORSE. (it's and interference engine) 4: bad fueling, flooding or starvation, readling spark plug tips tells me which it is. 3.0L & 3.2L is Non-Interference , no engine stated. so ....

that meens your alternator is bad

Check fuel pressure, check camshaft belt, check for engine misfire, run fault code check by following instructions HERE

there is a grove so the bulb only goes in one way look for the different spot on the side of the bulb

theres probably a short somewhere under the dash.

if your d4 light started flashing, then that means a transmission sensor is failing, which causes your transmission to act funny.ill get back to you with a method on checking them and a list of codes to get you started, but dont go and ask for a new transmission. it might not be necessary.

Sounds like the catalitic converter/s are clogged up. This would cause low air flow and low compression. I've seen them so bad that they dropped the compression down to 60 lbs.

770 rpm +/- 50

Hi!!
Here is how:
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6

1. Remove the door pad and inner moisture barrier.
2. If working on the rear window of a sedan, remove the two upper screws securing the center channel. Remove the two lower bolts (in the door) securing the channel and remove it. On some cars, the two screws are concealed below the weatherstrip.
3. For sedan rear doors, remove the quarter glass. The entire glass and rubber seal may be removed as an assembly from the door.
4. Lower the door glass until the glass mounting bolts are accessible. One will be easily seen in the large access hole in the door; the other will appear in the smaller, round access hole. Remove the bolts.
5. Stand next to the inside of the door. Tilt the door glass and remove it through the slot.
6. On front doors, remove the bolts securing the front run channel, then remove the channel.
7. Remove the regulator mounting bolts and remove the regulator. On later models, there are additional roller guide bolts to be removed. Mark the roller guide mounting bolts to ease window alignment later.
8. For power windows, remove the motor from the regulator if desired.

CAUTION The regulator gear will move suddenly when the motor is removed due to action of the large spring. Keep hands well clear.
TO INSTALL, REVERSE DIRECTIONS
FIG 1

FIG 2
FIG 3

FIG 4

FIG 5

FIG 6

Good Luck!! A HELPFUL - 4 THUMBS - rating for this solution would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for using FixYa!!

its possible that the fuel level is lower than what the fuel pickup tube can get gas to draw it up.also there could be alot of dirt in the filter and needs to be changed.

It's a 10 amp fuse its usually red

Loosen the lug nuts (turning counter-clockwise) to finger tight on the front wheel with the damaged CV joint. Buy, borrow or rent a CV nut socket. Some auto parts stores will sell you one for about $30 and refund your money when you return it. Because the CV nut in the center of the wheel hub is locked in place with a safety tab, it is loosened initially with a long breaker bar or a hollow pipe placed over the ratchet handle to increase the torque needed to break the nut free. Loosen to finger tightness.

2 Set safety brakes and jack up the front of the car toward the side of the damaged CV joint using at least a 2 1/2-ton jack. Both the car and the jack should be on a hard, level surface and the lifting point must be a load-bearing member on the chassis or engine cradle. Place two jack stands under the front end and slowly lower the car onto the jack stands so the car chassis is fully resting on the stands. Now, pull out the jack and move it out of the way.

3 Remove the wheel lug nuts and pull off the wheel from the hub. If it doesn't cooperate, kick the bottom of the tire sidewall with the back of your heel or the flat of your hand to dislodge it. Unscrew the center CV nut. To dislodge the male spline outboard end of the CV joint that fits into the female spline in the back of the wheel hub, take the CV nut and screw it back on three or four turns, then strike it with a hammer to partially disengage the splines.

4 Remove the ball joint stud on the lower control arm from its socket in the spindle behind the wheel hub, after you remove a locking bolt, cotter pin or other device that holds the ball joint stud that protrudes from the lower control arm. Then, wedge a pry bar (called a pickle fork) between the tie rod and sway bar. To gain greater leverage, insert the pry bar handle into a length of pipe and apply downward pressure to remove the ball joint stud from the spindle.

5 Remove the CV joint and shaft. With the lower ball joint disconnected from the wheel spindle, the hub can be moved to the side just enough to remove the outer CV joint from the spindle socket in the back of the wheel hub. Do not stretch the brake line that is attached to the wheel brake cylinder as you move the hub aside. With the outboard end of the shaft free of the wheel, pull the shaft straight out from the transmission housing. Because of the labor involved with repairing or replacing CV joints, it's more cost effective to simply replace the entire shaft assembly including the two CV joints and boots.

6 Install the new shaft and CV joint assembly. Clean the transmission seal that came off the old unit; pack it with grease and place it over the inboard spline of the new unit before inserting new shaft into transmission. Make sure splines are lined up before tapping the other end of the shaft with a hammer to seat it in its socket. Carefully insert the other end of the shaft back into the wheel hub and loosely thread on the new CV bolt that came with the assembly.

7 Reinstall the ball joint stud into the spindle by re-inserting the pry bar between the tie rod and the sway bar and leveraging down the lower control arm with the ball joint stud positioned just under the spindle hole. Then release pressure on the pry bar so the ball joint stud re-seats into the spindle. Push the wheel hub all the way onto the shaft spline to seat and torque down the CV nut tight. With a flat head screwdriver tap the lip of the new CV nut into the groove cut into the screw end. Now, re-attach the ball joint locking bolt, put the tire back, replace lug nuts and tighten. Remove the car from the jack stands and finish tightening the tire lug nuts.