20 Most Recent 1987 Honda Accord - Page 6 Questions & Answers

The car is one year from being antique. On a car that old you rebuild the engine, or exchange it for a rebuilt one, as opposed to replacing one part after another. Every seal and ring on the engine designed to keep lubrication away from combustion had done its job and lived its projected life by 1997. Good news is that when it reaches operating temperature, it is still working. Before you do a ring job, google around for a rebuilt engine.

From your description it sounds like the starter is faulty or there is a dirty / loose / corroded connection between battery / starter relay / starter.

Charlie

What created this problem?
How did it get out?

Explain what you got into

It is located just under the distributator on top off the bellhousing. It has two bolts that hold it on. This is on the Passanger side of the car.

checked fluid level? sounds slippy so check that.. and check that your shifter is all secure and nothings broken dude... probably low on fluids.
Derek

This sounds like bad sparkplug wires, pull wires off the plugs and see if oil is on wires, this is common on these cars the valve cover gasket goes bad and oil leaks into sparkplug holes and then it misfires, if theres oil in holes replace the wires and the valve cover gasket with the tube seals,

So you assume your not getting fuel pressure

Check it,then the fuel filter,then the pump

You need to servise the transmission. If you are able, drain the trans oil and replace the filter. and put new honda brand of trans oil only. if you cant service it yourself please see an authorized repair man . the selinoid may get worst.if you dont dhave it done right away.

The philosophy "if ain't broke do not fix", doesn't work for the timing belt. If it broke the overhead cam stops, but the crank shaft keeps moving, and the result is one or more bent valve. Normally the repair cost is ten times more, than a timing belt change. The timing belt cannot be tighten up, it must be replaced with a new one. The manual recommend to change the timing belt at 90000miles. It is a good idea to replace other belts, and the water pump. Make sure to send your car to professionals. It is not rare for people to have problems with engine after replacing the timing belt. In all my cars I do it by myself. It is not impossible, but you will spend more time than a professional. If you decide to do it by yourself, then get the Haynes Repair Manual (Based on a complete tear down and rebuilt), specific for your car. I have one for each of my cars. Go to the part Engine, and use the chapter Timing belt removal inspection, and Top Dead Center (TDC) location, and put the number one piston at TDC on the compression stroke. This can be found by putting the thumb over the spark plug hole and the pressure will push your finger upward till piston reaches the upper point. This can be done by inserting a long blunt object into the spark plug hole. Note the point where the object stops moving out this is the TDC. Hope this will help.

I would check to make sure the camshaft gear isn't off 1 tooth. I would check the alignments of all the pulleys with the marks.

The IGNITOR UNIT is on side of the distributer. It is a square over with a cable connecting to the main wiring loom.

I heard Honda Accords are notorious for transmission problems. I did my research and found that 2001-2002 Accords were recently recalled. I filed a complaint with the NHTSA Office of Defects Investigation. I also called Honda and they told me there was nothing they could do. 2003 Accords had transmission recall that was supposed to fix the problem specifically that the "transmission was not properly shifting into 3rd gear".

So clearly it was known in 2004 that the 2003 Accord transmissions had a thermal problem due to faulty design. The transmissions were overheating and there was concern about failure.

Check power going into the distributor, if you have no spark at the end of the wire.

Automatic? Through the hole where you check the trans fluid (dip stick). Warning: DO NOT OVERFILL!!! Overfill will likely result in damage to the trans and possibly a fire when the oil over heats and runs out of the dip stick hole and falls onto the hot motor.

Manual? There is a hole on the side of the box. Hole is plugged with a 1/2" pipe plug or similar. You will have to pump the 80- or 120 weight oil in as the hole is high on the box and will not allow you top put the container high enough to allow gravitity to assist you with this.

Manual transmissions rarely need oil ... remove the plug and put your finger into the hole. When you take your finger out ... there should be oil on it.

check brake switch above pedal and brake light relay in engine compartment relay box.

Please see my tip at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r6053280-lights_out_lights_not_out_bulbs_ok . These are generic instructions. If you get stuck or need specific instructions for your car, please get back to me with model, year and engine info.

Well it is quite simple, start when the motor is cold,and undo the hose clamps, then remove the pipe, it will be quite tight but do not use a screwdriver to try and remove it, it could be damaged. Remove the two bolts holding the thermostat casing and remove, remove the thermostat and replace in same position and work your way back as you started. remember to replace the gasket or use gasket sealant to avoid leaks. (when removing the thermostat check how it comes out and fit new in same position )

If your charging system isn't working, It will drain your battery voltage, and eventually stall. Jumper cables supply voltage from another vehicle. You will need to get the charging system tested. If you can use a volt meter, you can get an idea if it's charging. You normally have 12.5 volts at the battery posts, with the engine off, and around 14 volts running. This is if it's working correctly.

sounds like the distributor needs replaced

run the car for 5-10 minutes with ac on full. Move the car to a dry area, shut it off. if the drip continues for a little bit and stops.
That would indicate it is ac coil condensate. Next test, run the car without ac on to confirm above.

I'd start by hooking 12 volts with a battery charger directly to the horn to see if it blows. then check if you have power to the positive connector when activating the horn button. Then if you dont, see if you have power to the horn relay, located in or near the fuse box