20 Most Recent 1986 Honda Civic - Page 3 Questions & Answers

If you have bad compression, you are going to There are other things that can cause you to lose power though. A dirty fuel filter, air filter or a clogged catalytic converter can also cause problems.
The fuel filter is replaced, so ignore fuel filter.But what about fuel pump.Have you checked the fuel pump.If the fuel pump is loosing pressure, then also same problem will be noticed.

Get the fuel pressure checked, if its checked low, then its faulty worn out fuel pump.

One of the easiest ways to check for a fuel pump related problem is to spray a little starting fluid into the air intake while trying to start the car. If the car starts momentarily,and goes up hill with proper power, then yes its fuel pump related problem.You will need to check that 12 volts is getting at the fuel pump. You will also have to check the "throttle position sensor" located at the area of the throttle body. If all this checked out OK, then yes the indication is towards faulty timing belt. The belt has lost its grip and got worn out or out of line. It needs to be checked. If its got out of line then refit it properly and check. And if it seems over stretched and got loose then it has to be replaced.----------- This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

im not sure, but you can check under the car.
most are under the car.

go to the rear of the car, and work your way forward...
follow the fuel lines, from the gas tank..

its probably a white plastic filter,,...it may be sitting in a metal case to protect it..

good luck

hope this helps

let me know

best thing to do if it's a overhead cam is get a professional to look at it and make sure it's done right because if you get it wrong and start it, it will cause alot of damage. if it's not just get the #1 piston to top dead center, and make sure the distributor is pointing near the #1 point. the timing mark is on a little plate near the crankshaft pulley. you probably don't need a new tensioner it's probably just the belt is over stretched from age and needs replacing.

you have to break that seal from around cover the best way is to get a a scraper make sure is flat and tap around until seal is broke

The choke is'nt set right and theirs a unit on the carb called a choke pull-off. This advice is based on a car that is sold new in the USA and has a carborater. With the air cleaner carefully removed and any vacume hoses disturbed noted find the choke blade, ( it's a butterfly valve that the air enters the carborator) With the engine cold the valve will be closed and can be easily opened with your finger. If it's open the engine is warmed up or you need to step on the gas to ( set) the choke, it should close all the way. Notice the linkage on the side of the carborater. This link goes from the choke blade to the choke pulloff a vacume motor that has a diaphram inside of it and a vacume hose connected to it. with the vacume hose removed connect a hose to it and **** on the other end the choke should open some. If it does the pull off is good and where the other end of the hose is connected is bad. A bad hose , split on the ends or disconnected altoggether is common problem. Most all cars don't have carboraters after 1988 so your mechanic might not have ever worked on a carborater Honda before. If you **** on the hose and the choke doesn't open just a little the pull off is bad. If it opens the choke more than an 1/8-1/16 inch it's adjusted to pull off too much. The linkage arm has a kink in it that lets the mechanic straighten the kink to adjust it for less pull off and bend it more to get it to pull off more. If it pulls off to much( sounds like you) the car will stall as it's not getting enought fuel cold and the choke needs to be closed a little more till it warms up. with the choke closed the idel has to be raised some so the engine can **** in this extra fuel to run cold. the linkage connects to a arm with a screw on it and this screw connects to the throttle lingage to raise the idel. If it's screwed in too much the car might idel too fast and should be set with a tach to about 1500 rpm and not more that 2000. With any vacume hoses you unconnectred to get the air cleaner off pluged ( with screws or tape you can start the car with the air cleaner off, hopefully with an assistant so you can watch it work. if it opens too far and starts to stall hold the choke closed till you find where it keeps running. Turn it off and bend the rod to match this opening with you sucking on ther hose. Remember to not warm up the engine or your not going to be right for cold. Once set to where you think it's about right or a little more closed than you found during your test connect the hose and try it again. if it keeps running set the idel on the fast idel screw
the one on the choke so it goes just fast enought to run smoothly ( 1500 ). Put it al together making sure to connect all the vacume hoses and look at the picture of the hoses that supposed to be under the hood somewhere. Make sure the ends of the hoses haven't split and if they don't fit good but new ones and install them one at a time as to not have to work the whole vacume picture as thier are alot of hoses and if you can't find something to connect a hose too plug it off. With the air cleaner reinstalled check again by listening to it run for hissing sounds as you can look over a off or missing hose and finding the hiss may find the problem if it's a hose off.

You might find somebody local to you, But you will have a better time finding one online at a site like Autozone or Advanced Auto parts.

YOU HAVE TO REMOVE LEFT DRIVE SHAFT FROM THE STEERING KNUCKLE THAT WILL GIVE YOU ENOUGH ROOM REMOVE THE ALTERNATOR.

With the information provided, I can think of two different solutions. the first one is to take the vehicle to your local muffler shop, to have the catalytic converter checked to see if it is plugged. The second would be to check the timing to see if it has jumped a couple of teeth on the belt. (It might be that you need to have the timing belt replaced).It is recomended to replace the timing belt every 60,000 miles.

Left side. lay underneath, just in front of the rear tyre. It is encased with a bracket holding it in place, easy enough to get of with a screwdriver but there is no stopper in the fuel line so be prepared to be drenched in fuel.

Left side,underneath. just lie under car in front of the left rear wheel.It is actually encased. It has a bracket holding it in place, easy enough to undo but there is no stopper in the fuel line so be prepared to be drenched in fuel!!

Youre ignition switch has gone bad

check tire pressure it important for good gas milage and the life of your tires have tires proper rotation also helps the life of your tires when you have to stop fast proper tires will keep you safe most auto stores sell tire pressure gauges so keep a eye on your tires and they will keep a eye on you

the distributor has three bolts holding it tight against the engine head you will have to loosen them using a 12 millimeter wrench and then you can turn the distributor to advance or ****** the timing.

www.haynes.com

It could be a bad distributor cap, spark plug wire, or spark plug.

fill the radiator with water,then start it up and run it till its hot if its the water pump water will **** out of the seal.if its the head then the oil level will rise.......DO NOT BUY IT UNTIL YOU DO THIS.(unless its real cheap).

Hi,

If you have fuel then it can only be the ignition system, try checking for spark at the spark plug lead, if no spark then you need to check the ignition system for faults.

Hope this helps.

Thanks

Jason

Timing Belt and Tensioner REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1984–87 Engines

1. Turn the crankshaft pulley until it is at Top Dead Center.
2. Remove the pulley belt, water pump pulley, crankshaft pulley, and timing gear cover. Mark the direction of timing belt rotation.
3. Loosen, but do not remove, the tensioner adjusting bolt and pivot bolt.
4. Slide the timing belt off of the camshaft timing gear and the crankshaft pulley gear and remove it from the engine.
5. To remove the camshaft timing gear pulley, first remove the center bolt and then remove the pulley with a pulley remover or a brass hammer. This can be accomplished by simply removing the timing belt upper cover, loosening the tensioner bolts, and sliding the timing belt off of the gear to expose the gear for removal. NOTE: If you remove the timing gear with the timing belt cover in place, be sure not to let the woodruff key fall inside the timing cover when removing the gear from the camshaft. Inspect the timing belt. Replace if over 90,000 miles old, if oil soaked (find source of oil leak also), or if worn on leading edges of belt teeth. Fig. 1: Timing belt and front cover assembly — 1984–87 engines
   Fig. 2: Positioning the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys before installing the timing belt — 1984–87 engines
   Fig. 3: Timing belt tension adjustment — 1984–87 engines
   To install:
   
6. Be sure to install the crankshaft pulley and the camshaft timing gear pulley in the top dead center position. Align the marks on the camshaft timing gear so they are parallel with the top of the cylinder head and the woodruff key is facing up. NOTE: When installing the timing belt, do not allow oil to come in contact with the belt. Oil will cause the rubber to swell. Be careful not to twist the belt unnecessarily or bend in a 90°angle, since it is made with fiberglass; nor should you use tools having sharp edges when installing or removing the belt. Be sure to install the belt with the arrow facing in the same direction it was facing during removal.
   
7. After installing the belt, adjust the belt tension by first rotating the crankshaft counterclockwise 1/4 turn. Then, re-tighten the adjusting bolt and finally the tensioner pivot bolt.
8. Replace the other components removed for belt access.
9. Start the car, check timing and adjust if necessary WARNING
   Do not remove the adjusting or pivot bolts, only loosen them. When adjusting, do not use any force other than the adjuster spring. If the belt is too tight, it will result in a shortened belt life.
   

no u dont have to trash it....you can clean it with a rag just a little moist with gas...after that u have to check the cylinder walls to make sure you dont have any grooves.....hope this helps...im a civic owner also and i had the same problem.....

two ways to buy a head gasket,1 on its own cost 25/30 dollers.2in a gasket kit that comes with all seals and other little gaskets that might be needed cost about a 100 dollers my advice go for the kit.adrian,,,,,,,,,