20 Most Recent 1986 Honda Accord - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Check your fuse box, it might be that simple. It should be located in the engine compartment (under the hood). When you find the fuse box, there should be a map of each fuse there and what each fuse powers. If one of the fuses is burned out, you should be able to replace it (make sure you use the same rated fuse -- a 20Amp for a 20Amp, or a 5Amp for a 5Amp -- usually they are color coded) and that should solve the problem. Japanese cars USUALLY have all of the fuses under the hood, but there is a chance that there might be a fuse box (or second fuse box) in the glove compartment, or under the dashboard.
If the fuse is not the problem, there might be a short circuit between the fuse box and the broken components. Bad wiring is much less likely, and much harder to fix, so if it is worth it for you to get it fixed, I recommend visiting a professional mechanic. If you don't want to invest that much money to repairing the issue, but need the Cig lighter to power a cell phone charger or GPS, you can run a bypass wire from the fuse box straight to the cig lighter. This will give you back your lighter, but will not solve the problem, which could indicate something more important, so it would be good to have a professional mechanic check it out when you have the time and money.

Hi, in that year there were 2 different 2.0 liter engines (carbureted SOHC and Fuel injected pushrod engine) and correspondingly 2 different alternators. They are wired differently with respect to the battery light. I recommend you check to make sure you were sold the right one. If you have the right one, check the voltage at the battery with the engine running. Is it at least 14 volts DC? Also check the 15 amp fuse 1, which also affects the battery light. If all of these things are in order, there may be a draw in the car when the key is on. To verify a draw, the amperage at the battery must be measured to see if the battery is actually charging. A high amperage ammeter is needed for this test. If you do have a draw, I can provide some procedures for locating the source--just let me know. Please also let me know if you have any more questions, and thanks for using FixYa.

Code 13 Barametric pressure sensor. ECM uses it for fuel mixture and timing.It is a wht 3-pin harness connector Baro-sensor is located under dash on passenger side make sure if there is a hose that it is attatch other than that you need this sensor

Is your engine grounded? May check the connection , may ned cleaned or tighten up. good luck,

probly lose braket under dash

high beams and brake lights r seperate circuits from head and tail lights....sounds like u need new light switch in steering column

no, the plug is firing. But the timing is off. the plug is firing quite a bit before top dead center on that cylinder. The burning of the fuel mixture is occurring while that piston is on its way up and is slowing it down---dragging down the whole engine. i think you should change the distributor cap and rotor as cylinder one is firing at the same time as cylinder 2or 4. This indicates a possible carbon track in the distributor cap.

Yes!

OK, you need to connect a relay to one of the 'power' wires under the hood that leads to the bulb of the low beams. Then, the fog lights will go on only when they are turned on or off.

Otherwise, you could have a relay that is controlled by a switch that independently operates the relay and thus the fog lights.

Both methods are legal in, Pennsylvania, anyway.

Sometimes hooking up the relay to the fuse box will only turn the fog lights on if the ignition switch is turned on for switched fuse box contacts. And, sometimes, hooking the relay to the fuse box will keep the fog lights on all of the time, as the fuse box may be energized at all times at certain contacts.

Good luck on installing your fog lights, correctly.

It's time to replace the engine. The rings on the pistons have worn out. They are letting oil get in the cylinders thus causing it to smoke. And they are letting the compession of thecylinders blow into the crankcase, this is why you oil in the air cleaner. it's just tired.

sounds like the carb needs a good clean

When it reaches 1/4 tank and starts to act up does adding gas to the tank cure the symptom?

If its an automatic it is called a ring gear. If its a manual it is the flywheel.

The transmission will need to be removed in order to replace it. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Send me your VIN# and I will decode it, and let you know what size engine you have.

you need to replace the iac motor the idle air control motor

I think you should check the fuel injection system because this indicates that the electricity is good but the fuel is not reaching the combustion chamber. May be the fuel pump is not working ,but sure it's nothing to do with the radiator .

think you have a bad brake caliper, sometimes they won't release the brake @ keep pressure on pads. suggest you replace

Check this out, also check between engine block and transmission bell housing.

This should be the firing order diagram for your vehicle, and let me know if you require any further assistance.

Hi,

This is likely due to an air / vaccuum leak somewhere in the EFI / Emission circuits, or a bad sensor.

When there are air leaks, the sensors cannot read properly and cannot provide the EFI computer with the correct data, hence the EFI computer will give erratic idling.

Cheers,