1999 Subaru Legacy - Page 5 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Absolutely no idea but the brown sludge residue is caused by the fact that it has been run with no antifreeze causing internal corrosion of the engine ,,now the radiator that you obviously bought second hand could be the problem ,drain cooling system and flush then add some caustic soda about half a cup and add to a cold radiator then top up with water and run engine for about half hour then flush again in all directions using the heater pipes ,refill with water and try it and if its ok add the 50% antifreeze if its not ok then its a head gasket new thermostat and possibly a NEW radiator

hi i would invest in an electronic boost controller, they remove the dead spot in the revs before the big turbo winds in, they are worth a few hundred dollars but are well worth the money. You also have the option of turning up the boost safely a few psi with these but you will love the difference without the dead spot it will seem like a new car to drive. If you do that and want more still i would get a turbo upgrade, ecu upgrade, fuel pump upgrade etc do all that you can before going with the expensive motor rebuild

the thermostat is a valve that regulates the water flow in your cars cooling system,so as to maintain an optimum temperature
If the radiator has a drain plug at the bottom.loosen or remove this to drain coolant out.Please ensure that you contain and discard this old coolant correctly.
.For most model subaru,trace the right hand lower radiator hose to the lower part of engine.
You may need to put the vehicle up on ramps or stands to get at easily from under the car.The hose is connected to the neck of the thermostat housing.unbolt this housing(usually 2- 3 bolts).You may need to pull it away with a little force as it will probably be stuck.
the remaining coolant will come out now and you will see the thermostat,usually with a rubber seal around the edge.Remove both the seal and the thermostat,taking care to note which way around it fits..Replace both with the correct part and bolt the housing down eveningly until tight.While doing this ensure that the thermostat remains fitted correctly inside the ridge.Failure to do so will cause leak,damage to thermostat by distorting and possible cracking of the housing.
For the model that has a paper gasket,clean well both surfaces,ensure dry and fit new gasket with a small amount of sealing compound that is compatible with heat,water and coolant chemical.
Ok time to refill the radiator and engine with the correct mix ratio of coolant and water(see the specs on the coolant container).Make sure that you use a high quality one that provides anti rust and heat suppression.Refill slowly to allow any air in system to escape.Any air locks will cause overheating and failure of the fan to either operate or cool the engine successfully.
Once filled,leave the radiator cap off.turn the cars heater all the way to max heat(leave the fan off).
Start the engine and let idle.What we need to let the engine do is drive out air as it warms.This will cause some coolant to overflow,you can recapture this to add back again.
This exercise may take 15 minutes or so do complete.(be patient).Some models have a small 10mm bolt near the throttle body that can be loosened to allow air to escape easier from an area common for airlock.As the engine warms and the air escapes you may need to add coolant to keep level up.Once the vehicle has reached the thermostat opening temperature,you will see the coolant level drop due to full flow around the engine and all air escaping.retighten the 10mm bolt once air stop bubbling and it is a constant stream of coolant.Run the engine until the fan operates,this will indicate that the temperature is right and the air is out.as the fan runs, top the coolant as it will go down a little until it stops.Ensure the correct level is in the plastic header tank and replace the radiator cap fully.Let it run for one more fan cycle as it is now under pressure.check for any coolant leaks.If the fan runs continuously or not at all check again the bleeding of air.Be careful as this coolant heats to temperatures capable of serious burns.I hope this helps.

try replacing ur throttle postion sensor

Check the driver's side inside the car on the left. About where your left shin rests when driving. And if this is incorrect, did you check the owner's manual? take care and good luck.

I think I would pull the timing covers back off and see if one of the pulleys etc. is loose. Did you put the proper tension on the timing belt? It is also easy to put that belt on one tooth off, the motor will still run and can produce the knocking noise, take care and good luck. ps I assume the oil level is good in the motor.

most subaru's have fuse boxes under the hood.

check the fuse

There is a filter on the pump, but it rarely needs attention. The real filter is usually near the washer fluid reservoir under the hood. It is silver and is strapped to the body, with two hoses. One in, one out.

Subarus can be challenging to "burp" Sometimes it takes several attempts to get the air out of the system. The procedure is simple. Top off the radiator, squeeze the hose a few times to help get the air out, replace the cap and start the car. let it idle or drive slowly near home with the heat on high. once the temp gauge begins to rise, if there is no heat get the car back to the driveway before the temp gauge gets half way. Shut the engine off wait for it to cool, at least 10 minutes. Then check the radiator again. If there is still air top off again and repeat. After 3 or 4 attempts if there is still air and or the coolant reservoir seems to be filling, try replacing the radiator cap. If this doesn't solve the problem, It may be a head gasket.

This could be most likely related to a coolant temp sensor biased to the coldest reading possible in it's range, causing the the ECU to think it needs tons of fuel to fill the cold dense air. Or it could be EGR related. Either concern can be tested for. One is to unplug the coolant temp sensor located on the cylinder head coolant crossover pipe(orangey/brown triangle connector, kinda hard to get to) and just see if it starts better, if so, sensor can be removed with a 19mm opened end wrench. If not, move onto the EGR. Unplug the vacuum source to the EGR and plug it with a golf "T" and see if it starts better. If that doesn't work, let me know so I can look into it further. I hope this info helps.

sounds like your coolant level is low? this causes a air pocket in system and hot coolant does not reach the heater core in side of car to give you heat. This can also cause engine to run to hot.

If the light flashes after the engine starts, it may indicate that the control system is not working properly; http://www.scribd.com/doc/104227/How-Subarus-Factory-Boost-Control-System-Works-v11-01

Plugged it in to where? If this is the airbag diagnostic connector, it should remain unplugged. Many major auto parts stores will scan your codes for free.

CODE SCAN VECHICLE TO SEE WHAT CAUSING CHECK ENGINE LIGHT TO COME ON.SOUND LIKE TURBOCHARGER REGULATATING VALVE AND ECM PROBLEMS.

Your clutch is completely burnt out you need to change it immediately before you damage your flywheel.

Hi, quickest way to answer your question. Contact a major salvage yard. They have cross-reference master lists for most vehicles as to what will fit what or, can be swapped over.

Let me know if you were successful.

Is this a high mileage engine? Sounds like restricted fluid flow delays engagement. I'd look into changing fluid and filter on the transmission.

fuse

probably not, unless you were going mach 2. chances are though, that it broke on start up like most do. buy a new belt and a cheap haines manual, have a little adventure, and your little suby will feel like your own more than ever. if you have any trouble, contact me through fixya, and i'll help you with the replacement. I just love them subarus!