1998 Subaru Legacy - Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Clean your MAF sensor and throttle body. If it's dirty it will send wrong voltage to ECU, running either too lean or too rich, most likely too rich and flooded the fuel injectors.

Did you connect returned hoses correctly?

Sounds like weak connection somewhere,I would start by one at a time,clean by scraping the prongs of each fuse. If this does not resolve your issue go by one of the parts houses that provide free electrical and charging system checks

Hi there now you say that occasionally the behaviour changes and it feels like you have all 4 wheels driving. Now is there any chance that the previous owner has modified the sensor or bridged it out to stopthe 4 wheels from driving. Now firstly you need to establish if it will engage all four wheels to drive by simply jacking up one side of the car and putting it into drive and watch to see if the elevated wheels drive while in gear. The whole idea of the anti bind solenoid is to allow the rear driving wheels to revert back to a conventional differential to allow you to corner efficiently. Now in my opinion I would find the terminals for the duty c solenoid and disconnect them and simply get a battery or run a power source from the main battery and simply give the solonoid a feed direct from your power supply and listen for it engaging and disengaging to see if yhe solenoid bis actually operational. It could simply be stuck in the on position like a starter motor sticks and the bang you're hearing when u accelerate hard may simply be the solenoid being forced back to its natural position of being off The high acceleration from the vehicles engine would also cause a surge of electrical power and may be causing the solenoid to revert back as it may just be stuck on. 1. Check the solenoid for operation using an external or direct power source listen for it clicking on n off 2. The solenoid bind sensor may be faulty or bridged out to only allow fwd. So find it and check out the wiring for breaks and bridge wiring which would keep the solenoid engaged 3. Check all the fuses and relays especially as solenoids tend to use relays rather than a fuse In my opinion this may just be a simple case of a stuck solenoid keeping your 4 wd on a 2wd basis. Find the sensor and check the wiring and if possible remove the rear differential solenoid and check for operation. Try this above and get back to me as it could be linked to your liaf sensing valve and the throttle potentiometer. But lets start of with simple elimination of the solenoid and its sensor hope this helps thanks davy .

if the engine has a knock sensor it is attached to the block between cylinders on the outside.

IT is a constant all wheel drive car which means that all 4 wheels are driven all of the time . There is a differential in the centre that allows for different speeds between front and back while driving such as going over bumps . When you engage the 4wd button you are in effect locking that centre diff so that both front and rear axles drive together. If you have it so that 4wd is not engaged (selected ) and there is no drive action to the rear wheels that then indicates that the shaft in that centre diff is not connected in the side gears ( stripped /broken) and it has been in 4wd all the time so that it could be sold

From FSM: B: INSTALLATION 1) Install the crankshaft pulley. 2) Install the pulley bolt. To lock the crankshaft, use ST. ST 499977400 CRANKSHAFT PULLEY WRENCH (1) Clean the crankshaft pulley thread using an air gun. (2) Apply engine oil to the crankshaft pulley bolt seat and thread. (3) Tighten the bolts temporarily with tightening torque of 44 N·m (4.5 kgf-m, 33 ft-lb). (4) Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolts. Tightening torque: 127 N·m (13 kgf-m, 94.0 ft-lb)

94 ft/lbs

You may have an air pocket and not allowing the engine to cycle coolant. Bleed the coolant system. You also might have a water pump that is starting to fail as in rotting fins that push coolant. Rare, but possible. Most likely Air pocket in coolant system if it has never over heated. Also something else can cause air pockets...... A very common problem on Subaru's are their head gaskets fail due to aged engine coolant that damages these gaskets. External coolant from head gasket leaks are going to need to get checked. Check out images on a search to see how it would look. but look along the head and engine block mating surface for wetness. Should be dry. Check to verify the difference from oil black or brown or gold, VS coolant which is green usually. Coolant has a sweet smell as well. To check for an internal head gasket leaks, check spark plugs for the typical steamed cleaned spark plug. Again google an image of spark plug burning coolant. Very distinct look to it.

its could be the fuel pump, if its going bad then it could be causing stall and a gas hose could be bad to and is only allowing a little gas to motor causing it to stall also

hi.you can check the coils off the alternator.looks similar like the pics.

sounds like your problem is with the heater core being blocked and the water can not flow thru the system

Either timing is out or your engine has dropped a cylinder Machine head and replace all old for new cylinders Make sure cylinder one is set at bottom dead centre or the engine will suck air rather than blow air

Not really enough information... Check to see if you are getting power to the locks. If so, check locking solinoide

The clicking could be due to worn shifter linkage bushings. As for the chatter you may need to replace the clutch and resurface the flywheel.

it should tension to 90- 98 ft lbs

There are welsh plugs in the block and head/s at the rear of the motor. They are prone to rusting out . I would say that there was a leak and the coolant under pressure started squirting out causing the overheat. Boiling water escaped under the cap or the hose or tank split . Unfortunately to replace the welsh plugs the motor has to come out as there is no room to work in. So while the motor is out replace all of them as they will all be rusty on the inside. At this point and from your description of immediately shutting down I would not expect and problems with the engine but to be on the safe side it would not hurt to have a compression test done to check head gasket and for cracks.

1. Hello, I've dealt with two of these (Loyales) with auto trannys, and when they began to slip or lose gears, that was it! I finally did an auto-manual conversion on one...not too bad really, but you have to have the manual pedal board and the plugs don't match so I lost back-up lights. The other, I had the tranny rebuilt and it failed within 3 months. As far as I know, there is no way to tighten the bands.

The EGR is located on the drivers' side of the engine about 18" in from the fender edge towards the center of the engine and about 8 inches forward of the wall at the back, it's a small round thing that is usually grey.

It sounds like you are not getting spark. Have you checked the plugs themselves? Wires? Yes, the injectors could be clogged but you should still get at least a grumble of turn over with clogged injectors. I would make sure you are getting spark at the plug.