1996 Subaru Legacy - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

the users manual covers this in the glove box, if lost the manuals seem hard to find , free. lacking that test all fuses. i use this https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to Model Category. For strangeness like that you need the dealership. I would normally suggest a transmission specialist, but they will likely tell you that you need a new transmission.

I tried the DIY service and repair manuals from a website and it actually helped me repair transmission problem in my ford explorer. it wont move forward or reverse, engine is good both solenoids for forward and reverse work. I don't have much technical knowledge but I just followed it step-wise, and works perfect! got it from www.reliable-store.com

check that the car rolls freely no brake drag or stuck parking brake which pump is fine the transmission or the fuel pump? stuttering on a u turn would lead me to a fuel pump issue could this also be from old spark plugs or a combination of two minor issues at the same time since that is a large drop in economy

the seat release straps are normally pulled from inside the car. if you need to fish out the missing strap i recommend using a rubber door stopper to make a gap so you can find and hook the strap with say a metal clothes hanger

Sounds like a fuse and you should have a diagram on your fuse box that tells you which fuses are what.

I don't know much about Subaru but I expect the turbo wastegate is controlled by vacuum which is switched by the engine management system. In the old days the turbo wastegate was normally closed and the manifold pressure was fed into a servo which opened the gate at the predetermined pressure. The new way of doing things is to have the wastegate normally open and the turbo producing no pressure until the engine management decides the time is right and it switches a vacuum supply to a vacuum servo which then closes the wastegate. With this system the wastegate is constantly moving and so is unlikely to give trouble though the vacuum servo sometimes leaks and vacuum lines give trouble. A fellow I know had a similar problem where the engine check light would light up and he would lose performance. In theory this was because of an overboost condition but the repair shop after fiddling around with it for a week fitted a new EGR valve to produce a cure.

The globes on tail lights are usually 2 elements so just because ur brake when pressed works doesnt mean the second part of the globe is working id buy new tail light globes or at least see if both little wires are going from one point to the other it looks like 2 little power lines .if top and bottom are both going to the other side tgen its another prob but if top or bottom line are broke then thats the problem hope i didnt confuse u but im sure u will get what i mean when u have alook at the globe

If you know how an ABS system works ... or don't know how they (are supposed to) work, there is a signal from each wheel, which are assumed to be turning at the exact same speed. But if one "locks up" during braking, the signal from that wheel stops ... and then the system releases the brake on that wheel, then immediately re-applies that brake, so you may hear or feel pulsations of brake application. That's the way they are SUPPOSED to work. What happens if the device picking up the signal from one or more wheels has a FLAKY signal, because, for instance, the mounting for the sensor is loose ... or bent, so that sometimes it does not sense the signal? Then you have the scenario you have described above!

Sounds like throttle position sensor is not working properly. Good luck mai

Sorry we have no way to look this up. Please contact a dealer parts dept.

If your vehicle has a MAF (mass airflow sensor), try disconnecting it and running the vehicle. If it runs ok ... suspect the MAF. Commonly, a fault with the MAF does not cause an engine check light

if its front wheel drive yes. rear wheel drive, no.

Run engine without switching any of the items and connect a voltmeter to your battery. It should read more than 13volts. If less than that but reads about 12.5V then check drive belt tension. If it reads OK (above 13V but not exceeding 14.5V) then switch on each item individually to check for biggest voltage drop. The one that creates the biggest drop maybe the one that creates that drain. If drop only happens when ALL items are on. then your alternator may need servicing because it could not cope with large loads. Also check all wires connected to it (alternator).

should be

Visit the on-line store, know as reliable-store, they have the repair manuals. I'm sure you will get the solution of your problem. 1996 Subaru Legacy Service Repair Manual INSTANT DOWNLOAD

four wheel drive

sorry but ask a local mechanic to have a look for you ,something amiss here and i suspect that who ever sold you the car knows what the problem is and its a big job to repair so sold the car quick ,,,,do the same ----

IF YOUR GETTING A ROTTEN EGG SMELL IN THERE & HAVE A COOLING SYSTEM AND WINDING SOUND IT MAY BE A DIFFERENT ISSUE.EDUCATED GUESS?! IT COULD BE ANTIFREEZE LEEKING ONTO A BELT CAUSING A WINDING NOISE & A NASTY SMELL! LEAKING HEATER CORES SMELL LIKE ROTTEN EGGS BUT WATER PUMPS/ BAD & WET BELTS/PS PUMPS/ IDLERS/BEARINGS, ECT CAUSE WINDINGS MAY BE A COMBO OF PROBS TOO. GOOD LUCK FRANK M

You've bumped the switch on the top of the steering column. Just turn it off.