1995 Subaru Legacy - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

check for valve cover gaskets leaking oil which is directly over the exhaust manifold .unless its coming from the exhaust then you are burning it ,which is a diff problem altogether .

No not at all, no damage to the transmission will occur. Just watch your revs and that you are not over-revving the engine. The hold function is incorporated into a transmission to allow you to hold that gear selected. This is most useful for when towing a heavy load down a hill, The transmission will hold that selected gear, preventing the car from changing gears and "running away". Basically allowing the engine braking being to be more effecient and the driver not having to ride the brakes as much, therefore reducing wear in the brake system. ;-)

look for a little safety release button near the shifter, should be able to push your key in there or a pen or pencil to release the shifter. Sometimes crud gets in there and clogs it up, could try spraying some WD40 or some type of lubricant in there see if that releases it. try jiggiling the shifter back and fourth. there may be a little rubber plug covering the shifter release button.

sensor is on r/s passenger side of intake on back facing firewall has a two wire connector and made of brass

this is best picture i can find for you

ask a local mechanic to have a look as yes i think the pull on the gearshift has damaged something and that why the key will not come out ,i thought it was only here in spain this sort of drug related crime happened ,I am so obsessed with having my car damaged after have a two stolen that i now only use a old fashioned cassete player ,but what i do it either a wireless chip player that uses a FM frequency or a dummy tape with a wire out of it that plugs into my phone and plays music through that .No more fancy stereos for me thats for sure

Hello, mdaniels676 and thank you for asking your question on Fixya!

Here is a simple process that will walk you through a few steps that will pinpoint the overheating problem on your 1995 Subaru Legacy, without even using any tools. It has helped millions of people, and I am certain that it will help you, because I wrote it for people in your exact situation.
How to diagnose your overheating 1995 Subaru Legacy

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Thanks for the vote, and good luck!

there is a heater inlet valve that is controlled by either a cable or a vacuum diaphram. This heater inlet valve is usually on the engine side of the firewall. If the cable is broken or loose you will be unable to open the valve and port warm coolant to your heater core. If the vacuum line to the diaphram is cracked, broken, or loose then the same result. If everything looks correct, try moving your controls to full hot and checking the position of the valve. Go back and forth between full hot and full cold and check to see if the valve is changing position with your control input. If it doesn't change then either the cable is broken where you can't see the break (if cable equipped) or there is a vacuum leak upstream of the valve or the diaphram itself is leaking. In the latter case, time for a new valve.

Does it hold pressure? If not, first check pressure cap. If it's good, you may have a internal engine leak. Have some perform a pressure check on the system.

Pull out # 1 spark plug and put back into plug wire, rest on motor block so that end of electrode is against metal. turn motor over and have a finger or compression gauge in # 1 cylinder, check to see if spark occur at same time as compression (compression will blow air past finger or raise gauge). When you say it has fuel do you mean gas tank has fuel? Are you sure fuel is getting to the cylinders? are plugs wet with fuel? Does it turn over but kinda thumps or backfire (Caugh)? Check the spark and compression first. if they don't happen at same time, the timing skipped or belt broke. if all is good pull plugs and inspect, could be flooded (WET) from fuel. either replace or spray with starting fluid and compressed air to dry them. spray starting fluid into air intake if starts then stalls, try again, if same thing happens then you have a fuel problem. try these suggestions first 1/2 hr time table, hopefully sucess, if not it sure indicates fuel.

hello there is a problem with your crankshaft or camshaft posistion sensor. there is a technical service bulletin out from subaru on the sensors. Just gothe to the subaru dealer and get the new sensors and replace them. You car will work fine after that. Takes maybe five minutes to replace both sensors one is one the left side of the engine by the battery near the black timing belt case the other is in the center of the timing cover right above the crankshaft pulley

Check the total wiring connections with battery.Check that there has been overlapped positive and negative wires or not.

timing could be off or could need fuel filter or could have blown hedasket

The sensor is usually located on the thermostat housing cap. Follow the top radiator hose to the engine. You will see a couple of wires coming from the sensor. That's your temp. sending unit.

• Check fuse #9 at in car fuse panel
• Check Illumination CTRL Module for melt-down
• Check that Tail and Illumination relay is fully seated, top center of in-car fuse panel.

The relay is most likely the cause.

You can also do a test to confirm the problem .The procedure to do the test is as follows:---

If your engine has spark plug wires, disconnect one of the plug wires from a spark plug and place the end of the wire near a metal surface on the engine. Then insert a small Phillips screwdriver into the end of the wire (the plug boot), or a small bolt or nail to provide a conductive path. Then crank the engine and look for a spark to jump from the screwdriver, bolt or nail in the end of the plug wire to the engine. If you do not see a spark, there is an ignition problem.

OR-----------

If your engine has a coil-on-plug ignition system with no plug wires, In that case remove one of the coils from the spark plug and insert an old spark plug, a spark plug tester or a screwdriver into the end of the coil. Ground the spark plug or plug tester to the engine, then crank the engine and look for a spark. No spark indicates an ignition problem.

Possibilities to be checked in this problem are as follows:--

If the engine has no spark, check for voltage at the coil positive terminal when the ignition key is on. If NO voltage, then problem is on the trigger side of the coil (pickup, crank sensor, ignition module or primary wiring circuit).

But If there is NO voltage at the coil itself, then in that case the problem is on the supply side (the ignition switch or ignition wiring circuit).

But if the coil has voltage, then problem may be a bad high voltage output wire from the coil or hairline cracks in the coil output tower.------Getting this all possibilities checked will point towards the exact faulty part which is to be replaced.----------This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

It's usually a restricted exhaust system ( the catalytic converter). Hope this helps :)

Check that the cruise control module fuses are not blown in the fuse panel. Also make sure your stop lights are working; cruise controls are designed to disengage when the brakes are applied, and one method of sensing that is to monitor brake light current.


then reset your four wheel drive again

replace fuel filter u sucked up dreggs from bottom of tank

when problem is fixed codes will clear themselfs if problem isnt fixed codes will come right back