1995 Subaru Legacy - Page 5 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Try replacing the fuel pump

Hi there are only a few things really it could be, the main fuel lines run down that side of the car so id start by checking where they exit the firewall and go up to the fuel filter. It will either be a loose hose clamp or a split fuel line. Pretty much just check the fuel lines from the firewall to the entry of the engine and you cant go wrong just be careful of fumes around a warm engine

just don't use the power lock

The Dipstick is on the driver side right next to the starter and yes you also put the fluid in there.

New from the junkyard or new from the autoparts store? Solution 1 or 2.

Check for leaks, have those fixed if any. Check for wetness around the transmission pan. There are hoses in the front to the transmission cooler in the radiator. Make sure there's no leaks. Then replace the transmission filter and fluid. Make sure to add Lucas Transmission Fix at least this one time. I vouch for it, its not a miracle in a bottle. If you have no mechanical or electrical problems with it. It will shift better that new. It is important that you add fluid in increments as to not over fill the transmission. If you do, take some out immediately. If not it will find its own way out. You can add the fluid while the vehicle is on, running in park. Just don't get injured, fast rotating parts.

Low power, dead battery. Bad or corroded connection.

Corroded starter contacts, rebuild starter solenoid. Or get a new one. Rebuild kit. Starter replacement.

Should be about 32 to 35 psi

Sounds like a short on a abs or emergency brake sensor since that would cause the brake light to be triggered also cause a sudden drop in voltage which would trigger the battery light could also be a bad ground at the battery

no spark normally means that the coil is burnt or connections are corroded.check to see if you are getting power from the coil,if not clean all contacts and retry.if nothing try another coil.also check the spark plug wires and spark plugs cause it has been sitting for an awful long time.

check fuel pressure should be 36 - 43 psi sound like problem could be fuel pump, first what i would do change fuel filter,replaced fuel pump relay check fuel pump fuse make sure it is in place tight. code scan car if you see check engine light flash.another thing cause stalling contaminated gasoline.

Motor mount or CVC joints.
CVC joints can be ckecked by trying to see if there is any ratteling or excessive movement in the whole housing while trying to shake it vigorously.
Motor mounts need to be inspected for cracks or tears in the rubber areas of the mounting.
Also look for loose exhaust system parts by trying to shake the exhaust.
Please rate my answer,Gary

Hi

If the car runs fine while driving and cuts off ONLY when you are idling (foot completely off the gas pedal and RPM's at idle speed) then your idle air control valve my need adjusting or need to be replaced, or idle air passage make have been blocked off by excessive carbon build-up. If build-up is the problem, a good removal and cleaning will do the trick or an off the shelf spray cleaner may get the job done as well. It could also be clogged fuel injection system. Try a fuel treatment with a full tank of gas. For an older model it could be the lock-up solenoid on the transmission. Or it could be a stopped up catalytic converter on about any make and model. First thing is check and change the fuel filter, it's usually checked by blowing air through it (in the arrow direction) if no air flows through or it blows through slowly then it's more than likely plugged change it and go from there. Sometimes after all avenues have been followed and the problem still exists i have seen the sock on the fuel pump be plugged and do the same. it will run great while accelerating but stall at idle due to not enough fuel pressure. It could be a problem with the car not getting enough fuel, or it may have something to do with one or more of the sensors, such as the Mass Airflow Sensor. Is your check engine light on? If it is then its most likely a faulty or dirty sensor. Please check the EGR valve to see if it is stuck open with a chunk of carbon. This will cause an internal vacuum leak and the car will not idle. To test the EGR valve (Exhaust Gas recirculation) pulls it off and tries to blow thru it. Also look to see if the EGR pintle is seated. Please get back to us if you have further query or else please accept this "particular" solution.

thats not good, we see this quite often on the subaru's, the rear differantal has a posi track unit in it. what this is, is a drive unit that allowes both rear wheel to apply engine power to the ground, most cars have only one drive wheel but your car has two so there is a set of clutches inside the differantal and when you go around a corner the clutches release to allow one wheel to spin free it has to do this because the outside wheel has to turn faster then the inside wheel, now with all that said your clutches are not releasing that is why you are getting the sudder, the first thing to do is have the fluid changed in the rear end and make sure they install fluid made for posi track rear ends, then give it a little wile ( like a 100 miles or so ) and if it comes out of it great but if not you will need to have the clutches changed, it around a $1000.00 job......good luck

Disconnect the battery for a couple of hours, should reset the computer.

no sensor,, Just the ignition is worn out,, your going to have to replace it, always use care when working with any part near the air bag system,, remove the neg battery cable first, then the positive one, and wait 10 minutes before doing anything, this will allow the system to discharge ,, once your done with any repairs,, hook it back up in the reverse order,, Positive cable first , then the neg

Hello and welcome to FixYa!

The problem can be on the ECU (engine control unit). If the ECU is faulty there can be no spark to the wires even the coil is new. You may try swapping the ECU first.
Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!

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Duralast/A/C Heater Blower Control Switch Price: $46.99
Part Number: JA1234 Warranty:Limited Lifetime Application:
Right hand drive
Notes: Motor resistor
Duralast/A/C Heater Blower Control Switch Price: $77.99
Part Number: JA1230 Warranty:Limited Lifetime Application:
Left hand drive
Notes: Motor resistor
Your switch is bad and needs replacing,these parts are from Autozone,if you want to compare shop and heres how to replace.Legacy and Impreza

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the control panel, and disconnect the wire harness from the rear of the assembly.
3. Remove the blower switch retainer screws, and lift out the switch assembly.

To install:

1. Install the blower switch, and secure in place with the retainer screws.
2. Attach the wire harness to the control panel. Install the control panel to the dash panel.
3. Connect the negative battery cable.
4. Test the blower switch on all speed setting to make sure it functions correctly.

change the injectors for they are stuck open losing all your unburnd fuel