1990 Subaru Legacy - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Check air idle control valve may be sticking or stuck.Clean throtlle plate with air intake cleaner and a tooth brush obviously when car is not running

Have you checked the timing belt, fuel pressure or to see if you have spark? I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

since you loose the radiator drain plug and screw it back in I believe that on the drain plug there is an "O" ring which it gets either harder or cracked. Just renew the "O" ring or the drain plug.

On the 2.5 engine the fuel pressure regulator should be mounted on the end of the fuel rail where the hose connects. It has a vac hose going to it.

Check the pressure to the fuel rail then check it at the line before the fuel pressure regulator, it should be between 55 and 80 psi at the rail and 100 psi before the regulator, if you don't have pressure before the regulator then you have a fuel pump issue, if the rail pressure is low then you may need to replace the regulator.

I guess the first question is how is it overheating, and how do you know the motor is not the problem ?Do you know if the coolant is flowing thru the system ?Does it boil over or just show hot on the gauge ?Does the cooling fan come on ?How long does it take to overheat ?

your timeing marks are on the block rite abouve the cams on either side and on the block in the middle but line the center mark on the teeth there is a mark not the arrow the arrow is where tdc is the mark is on teeth good luck.

Try taking the ground cable off the battery for 30 seconds or you can pull the ECM fuse out then put it back that should reset the computer

If it hasn't run in a couple years, I would use a "test light" and check for power at the plug-in for the fuel pump. If ther's no power I would run a wire from the battery straight to the fuel pump itself. If the pump doesn't turn on you will have to replace the pump. If this starts it. If this makes it work you could put a fuse in the wire and hook it under the hood to any wire that has power when you turn on the key.If you are trying to get it running again after 2 years it might be a good idea to pick up a Haynes manual for the car. They're only about $20 and have a lot of useful help for the DIYer doing average repairs. Hope this helps.

Sounds like the clutches for 3rd Gear are worn out. Need to rebuild or replace the transmission.

it sounds like there is a short in either a wire or a connection,i would say thats its problably in the door or where the wires are ,that you see when you open the door in the crevase where the door hinges are.Its a good place to start,you will need a multimeter to test.AS to be worried about it,i would say yes cause electrical shorts can cause car fires.You could always pull the fuse to the clock as an extra precausion.

Hi there,Each motion of your electric seat is operated by 3 components:1. Fuse/Relay - ensure the fuse or relay is not faulty (before you do anything else).2. switch - each position of the switch can be tested by the use of a multimeter. If the switch proves ok, then continue testing the motors.3. motors - if you remove your seat from the vehicle, you will see 2 or more motors (depending on how many functions your seats have) underneath, or inside the back. You can detach the motor wiring connectors and using a jumper wire, connect each pin dircectly to the car + & - battery terminals. If the motor spins ok, then revers the wires to confirm the motor spins in the opposite direction. Do this test for each of the motors. If a motor does not respond in one (or more) directions, then you have a suspected faulty motor. You should be able to obtain these parts from the same model Subaru, at your local car wrecker.Hope this helps....Cheers,

Did anybody bother to actually TEST the charging and starting system or are we just replacing parts? This whole thing COULD be caused by something as simple as a bad battery cable connection.I would recommend reading the following articles:My Car Won't Turn OverWhat Else Could Be Wrong?

It is more than likely in the tank.
Check the radiator fluid and other fluid levels as well

Assuming you are under the vehicle there is a hose going from bottom of radiator to the motor follow it and remove the dome like cover via the two bolts holding it on and there is your thermostat make sure the motor is cold and drain the coolant beforehand

The best thing to do is get either a copy of the Haynes manual for your car or sign on to "alldatadiy.com". Both cover this type of repair quite well. Alldata is very car model specific so it will only be your car and engine that it covers. Both will include any special actions that are required. For example, the head bolts on a VW engine need to be removed in a certain order or the head will crack. Read the section through before you start to take your engine apart.

You will also need to have a torque wrench to reassemble the engine. A decent one will run you about $50. Don't cheap out on this, tourque is critical. The one on sale for $29.95 can cost you big time before you are done. The best type will have a screw in device on the handle to let you set the tourque. Just remember to loosen it off when you are done or you will ruin it for the next time. Hope this helps.

Maybe a haynes manual. I think they are garbage but may help a beginer. The old Chilton's (with the 'S, Chilton without the 'S is a haynes on the inside) were really good. Unfortunaly they are printed by haynes now and are the very same thing on the inside.

You might search Lloyd's auto literature. They may have a factory reproduction and are fairly inexpensive.
You could also try autozone.com or the Alldata service that they market (may be AlldataDIY.com). You can buy a years online subscription to the data Alldata has to offer.
At one time Chilton's (the real Chilton's and not the fake Chilton/haynes) was putting them on CD. You might do a search for those. Amazon.com is at times a good place to look for manuals.

No fuel pressure AND no spark? I'd be looking at fusible links. (some cars use maxi fuses instead, which look like oversized fuses)

Most likely you put the thesmostat in upsid down. Good luck

Hello and welcome to FixYa!
As a first course of action, I strongly suggest that you remove the positive battery connector and let it sit for atleast 5mins. or more before reconnecting it. This will reset the system and can get your vehicle back to it's normal operation.
Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!