20 Most Recent 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Sounds like a heater core/thermostat problem or blend door problem. The grinding noise sounds like a transfer case problem. If your mechanic cant figure out the problem you need a new mechanic.

Actually about right

Almost sounds like an injector heat-soak issue... However I'm wired on coffee and Monster at the moment. By not starting for a few days, do you try to start it several times in the interim, or do you just not touch it out of frustration for a few days? You should be able to check for heat-soak the next time it won't start after a drive by pouring a bottle of cool water over the injectors and down the fuel rail. Should cool off the injectors so they work properly again. Have you checked to see if there are any codes coming from computer? With the key in the ignition, turn it from off to on three times (not all the way to start, ie crank the motor). So you go on-off-on-off-on-off then back to on and leave it there. The check engine light will flash a specific sequence. It may be handy to have a piece of paper in case there's multiple codes given. Basically what you do is count the flashes. They'll come in two-digit sequences, with the digits separated by a small pause. If there are multiple codes, they will be separated by a longer pause. So flash-flash-pause-flash-flash-flash paauuusssee flash-flash-flash-pause-flash-flash-flash would be a 23 and 33 respectively, if that makes sense. This may help you with trouble-shooting, especially if the computer does give you some codes. Don't worry about Code 12 and Code 55, as 12 is battery/power disconnected within last 50 engine starts (or something like that), and 55 is end of message (ie, no more codes). Edit** Codes for your year are: Code 88-Display used for start of test. Code 11-Camshaft signal or Ignition signal-no reference signal detected during engine cranking. Code 12-Memory to controller has been cleared within 50-l00 engine starts. Code 13-MAP sensor pneumatic signal-no variation in MAP sensor signal is detected or no difference is recognized between the engine MAP reading and the stored barometric pressure reading.. Code 14-MAP voltage too high or too low. Code 15-Vehicle speed sensor signal-no distance sensor signal detected during road load conditions. Code 16-Knock sensor circuit-Open or short has been detected in the knock sensor circuit. Code 16-Battery input sensor-battery voltage sensor input below 4 volts with engine running. Code 17-Low engine temperature-engine coolant temperature remains below normal operating temperature during vehicle travel; possible thermostat problem. Code 21-Oxygen sensor signal-neither rich or lean condition is detected from the oxygen sensor input. Code 22-Coolant voltage low-coolant temperature sensor input below the minimum acceptable voltage/Coolant voltage high-coolant temperature sensor input above the maximum acceptable voltage. Code 23-Air Charge or Throttle Body temperature voltage HIGH/LOW-charge air temperature sensor input is above or below the acceptable voltage limits. Code 24-Throttle Position sensor voltage high or low. Code 25-Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor driver circuit-short or open detected in 1 or more of the AIS control circuits. Code 26-Injectors No. 1, 2, or 3 peak current not reached, high resistance in circuit. Code 27 -Injector control circuit-bank output driver stage does not respond properly to the control signal. Code 27-Injectors No. 1, 2, or 3 control circuit and peak current not reached. Code 31-Purge solenoid circuit-open or short detected in the purge solenoid circuit. Code 32-Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) solenoid circuit-open or short detected in the EGR solenoid circuit/EGR system failure-required change in fuel/air ratio not detected during diagnostic test. Code 33-Air conditioner clutch relay circuit-open or short detected in the air conditioner clutch relay circuit. If vehicle doesn't have air conditioning ignore this code. Code 34-Speed control servo solenoids or MUX speed control circuit HIGH/LOW-open or short detected in the vacuum or vent solenoid circuits or speed control switch input above or below allowable voltage. Code 35-Radiator fan control relay circuit-open or short detected in the radiator fan relay circuit. Code 35-Idle switch shorted-switch input shorted to ground-some 1993 vehicles. Code 37-Part Throttle Unlock (PTU) circuit for torque converter clutch-open or short detected in the torque converter part throttle unlock solenoid circuit. Code 37-Baro Reed Solenoid-solenoid does not turn off when it should. Code 37-Shift indicator circuit (manual transaxle). Code 41-Charging system circuit-output driver stage for generator field does not respond properly to the voltage regulator control signal. Code 42-Fuel pump or no Autoshut-down (ASD) relay voltage sense at controller. Code 43-Ignition control circuit-peak primary circuit current not respond properly with maximum dwell time. Code 43-Ignition coil #1, 2, or 3 primary circuits-peak primary was not achieved within the maximum allowable dwell time. Code 44-Battery temperature voltage-problem exists in the PCM battery temperature circuit or there is an open or short in the engine coolant temperature circuit. Code 44-Fused J2 circuit in not present in the logic board; used on the single engine module controller system. Code 44-Overdrive solenoid circuit-open or short in overdrive solenoid circuit. Code 46-Battery voltage too high-battery voltage sense input above target charging voltage during engine operation. Code 47-Battery voltage too low-battery voltage sense input below target charging voltage. Code 51-Air/fuel at limit-oxygen sensor signal input indicates LEAN air/fuel ratio condition during engine operation. Code 52-Air/fuel at limit-oxygen sensor signal input indicates RICH air/fuel ratio condition during engine operation. Code 53-Internal controller failure-internal engine controller fault condition detected during self test. Code 54-Camshaft or (distributor sync.) reference circuit-No camshaft position sensor signal detected during engine rotation. Code 55-End of message. Code 61-Baro read solenoid-open or short detected in the baro read solenoid circuit. Code 62-EMR mileage not stored-unsuccessful attempt to update EMR mileage in the controller EEPROM. Code 63-EEPROM write denied-unsuccessful attempt to write to an EEPROM location by the controller. Code 64-Flex fuel sensor- Flex fuel sensor signal out of range-(new in 1993)-CNG Temperature voltage out of range-CN gas pressure out of range. Code 66-No CCD messages or no BODY CCD messages or no EATX CCD messages-messages from the CCD bus or the BODY CCD or the EATX CCD were not received by the PCM. Code 76-Ballast bypass relay-open or short in fuel pump relay circuit. Code 77-Speed control relay-an open or short has been detected in the speed control relay. Code 88-Display used for start of test. Code Error-Fault code error-Unrecognized fault ID received by DRBII. Please let me know.

i guess you have not checked battery voltage yet.?? it must be 12.6vdc+ rested, if not its discharged (spring weather, warm) it must be 13.3vdc to 15vdc running or the charge system is failing, note I DID not say what part is. "a system it is" when the battery voltage drops too low? all the many computers in the car go nuts. BCM doors , lamps,... they all hate too low voltages (below 10v can be a problem.) depends on year of car, and is complex due to so many puters on board. ( are the head lamps dim, ?did you check that?) if head lamp dim this is FIX FIRST NOW EVENT. if the starter motor cranks slow, say so,. that too is fix first. event. you meant it would not crank or ment cranking was slow starter. or what? no matter, the battery was discharged the reasons are as follows. 1: battery is NO GOOD< (#1 all time top fail on all cars is THIS) even green corroded lugs? clean them? 2: bad charge system. 3: left lamps on in car, by accident, some can be hidden. 4: phantom drains, not #3, more serious there is test for each of those failures. simple tests. why not get car serviced, like 99% do now. or ask how to test and what tools are needed i bet you dont want to buy tools,.. as most here say. so.... its what. get car serviced if you have DMM volt meter say so, any voltmeter, to start. works.

check your trans fluid, if its been a while flush it and change the filter if its reving and your speed doesnt change (slipping) if your speed changes check the TPS and speed sensors on the trans as well when you change fluid.

How do you know what you're hearing is the fuel pump? I'd say it was weak or failing, it's what happens. Have the pump and filter replaced, it's not that expensive and an OEM pump from ebay will last a LONG time.

its probably ******* to run this. call your local DMV and ask. in the usa cars must comply with DOT laws on lighting this is usa forum so,.... answer for US

tell problem first tell what diagram means. mechanical, electric, ,or ? what? tell of what part, 4wd has many parts front end, and transfer case and the rear of main trannybox read the service manual, be best, get one? i guess you mean the transfer case (box) but there are 3 used that year, fact. and you never said, and the rear of it has red tag clearly telling what is there. Chapter 21-1 shows that. NV147 NV242 NV247 and work quite different. the CD SM is here https://www.techauthority.com/en-us/products/?year=2004&model=463&type= or google , mitchells DIY, for online books.

note that you never once said car can be driven? why? job1, can you do job 1? battery is going dead if head lamps are dim its battery going dead, (not dash HEADs?) notice is did not say battery was bad only discharged. if engine starts is charge.battery lamp glowing. i engine is dead, can crank it. get a jump, call AAATOW or find a loaned battery that is charged. buy a battery charger and use it. also cars can have phantom drains, as you sleep battery goes dead. (ask)

a very serious problem do not drive it like that, tires inflated wheel bearing loose tie rods about to fail and huge danger, ball joints, get the car checked now. great danger awaits..

long post. ill reduce it for you. misfires. (is RPM below 700 then misfire can be normal) for idle speed controls dead. ISC the isc controls speed, of idle,. mine stuck like zillion times, in 400k miles. endless.sticking mine was a tiny gutless stepper motor drive ISC valve. the cone valve is side gets nasty and sticks ( (PCV gases caused as seen on all engines) i clean it. the proof is the easy press of right foot easy raises idle back to 700rpm and engine stops misfiring. ever get a tuneup this decade or running spark parts 500,0000 miles for the new world record.? now the tricky part of ISC, , fully explained in the SM serv. man. the PCM learns its behaviors. it learns all hot start settings and cold so when you key on, it goes to the correct HISTORICAL spot. if it can move there(sticks) engine car race. or run too slow, cold start would be worse, as hot isc is more closed so if sticks there closed, the next cold start will be horrid some newer manuals telly you to add 5% throttle if car is hard starting this is so common. clean it. end story. ISC

YOU HAVE A BAD HEAD GASKET! BURNING ANTI FREEZE

no country stated, no engine or exact transmission, real name. see our USA pages see all those, engines and matching transmissions be wise to saY WHAT DRIVE TRAIN IS THERE. if in Europe with a Diesel why leave both facts out.?????? you have transmission flare, (false neutrals) lacking even one clues as to where you are, or what drivetrain is a totally wasted POST, IMO. see gen2 grand Cherokee, list below, must the helper guess? why? if car is USA< and say if 42RFE or 5-45RFE trans? most posts fail here due to people thinking all cars are the same sorry NOT. http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/productSearch.aspx?&ukey_make=1064&ukey_model=15529&modelYear=2004&ukey_category=0&ukey_driveline=0&ukey_trimlevel=0&ukey_modelRange=0&isOnSale=0&searchTerm=

please post a real question??? above not at all. failed smog? CEL glows, scan show what? smell gas? can fill gas tank full? what? we can be on same page, lacking a story can we?

I think should be around 750.

what engine engine do not ever run the same cooling sorry,,,, why not say the one fact or read the SM first posted over 300 times RTM, read much>?? WJ jeep, USA? or Europe WG/? amazing no? country variances matter. CVM http://jeepdied.com/books.html

checked means what, gandering at them checking real is measuring them, with an OHM meter fuse that look bad are in fact bad, but look ok can in fact have hair line cracks humans cant see, for sure old folks. what works and what not is the TOP CLUE here, 1:heater blower dead, blower key word 2: ac DEAD sure it is with #1 PCM logic does that. 3:blinker something , dead, stuck on, one works 3 dont what? 4: high low cooling fans, underhood or dash? 5: does car drive, omg, does it? and not stated !!!!! 6: does car drive at night, headlamps work. 7: air bag on , driving? when? it will just key on, as do all warnings as s self test. 8: anything else work or not work , radio, wipers, and all things.? 9: does engine crank ,ok fast, sounds strong? 10: are head lamps dim.???? 11: did you skip things that are dead in your report.? ID bet you never scanned it , right. what does GOOFED mean.???? sounds scary that.,!means hacking to me.... why say this.? with no photos show if damage. you cant fix modern cars lacking a scan tool. I can do magic with my tools but you cant. i have a full lab. (lab scopes and things you've never seen) but a scan tool is dirt cheap and is a MUST. IF the cars power distribution system fails even a $10 voltmeter can find this, got one? lets see. the list 1: fuses good, not the gandered at way. 2: battery lugs ok, not corroded. tell more, get more, lots more,

the HO is a high output version of the 4.7. the differences are internal, the externals *should* be the same. to be sure, though, call an auto parts store and ask them if the 4.7 regular and 4.7 HO use the same MAIN SEAL. this sill ensure that the regular 4.7 will fit a 4.7 HO transmission, as the main seal comes between the back of the engine and the front of the transmission.

jeep dot com parts shows all parts in the box. ever see that? (the internet way of going to the parts counter and looking over the guys shoulders........ posted 100s of times now., ill guess, 42RE box> 4wd it be part of the valve body. "but sometime in '93 they integrated it into the Gov. pressure sensor" (off jeepforum.com) part ID 31 as see here. http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=604136&ukey_make=1064&ukey_model=15529&modelYear=2004&ukey_category=20318&ukey_driveLine=7579&ukey_trimLevel=18564 keep in mind i guesses your transmission. only you know what is there.

OP bought a new /used trans.end story.