1999 Honda Accord - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

is the check engine light on, keyon and goes out running yes, its on running ! then scan it. do not skip this... no need to guess at all, there are simple cheap test, for all failures forget idle, idle is the lasting that will work with a ratty running engine. Bogs, not misfire, (shakes for misfire) is lean burning. if feels like your are pulling a 5000 trailer of lead. a long hard smooth bog, not transitory. im sure you did a tune up and sparks are not 15 years old. huh? possible causes ( you never said what engine in car.? there are many) 1: low fuel pressure. 2: MAF is dirty (got a maf) or if a MAP EFI , the map vacuum cant reach the mAP, for clogging or it leaks reasons, (hoses?) 3: if MAF system , any air leaks will cause bogs. called unmetered air, and air cant burn, the ECU must see all air to add fuel correctly. (the 02 sensor corrects for small intake leaks) id bet your 02 is not even on online at all. do to gross fueling issues. this is the basics, good engine,good spark good fueling. we do simple tests to find this. if you want to test, say so and engine spec, and we can. what engine, this fact tell me what EFI system you have. and i can not fix cars with unknown EFI. a short list. more world wide, why not say country.? 2.0L F20B5 I4 147 hp (110 kW) 2.3L F23A1 I4 150 hp (112 kW) 2.3L F23A4 I4 148 hp (110 kW) 2.3L F23A5 I4 135 hp (101 kW) 3.0L J30A1 V6 200 hp (150 kW) the car is sold all over the world, where are you? only 2 posts now in 6000 post told this BIG secret.... funny that.....

ok , the valve is easy to test and clean but is only 10% of the path. my bark test works. i remove the EGR valve see 2 ports there. (twin holes) one is vacuum side, (intake) the other is exh. side. i plug the vacuum side, and start engine this is what i call the bark test. if the exh port barks load ,it may be good. if dead, or weak, it is, fix that now. clean path. if that works ok , i then check the vacuum path port of carbon blockage. i rod it out with a flex cable.ask the electric side test are below. see 253mb file here http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Accord/ that is the FSM. burn it to cd, and run the setup'

have your fuel pump checked it could be overheating, I had the same problem before and the fuel pump sat behind the back wheel , when it died I would take a wet rag and cool it down then it would start up again until it got hot , I replaced it and I have had no problems since

A faulty EGR valve Tani.

It is probably just slightly out of alighnment.

how cold ever do a tune up,, good spark plugs work way better cold. new ones. as does fresh winter fuel. how cold, 50f 32F 0F -40F? surely we dont know.

Hi, Sounds like the clutch plate or converter is starting to go. At 250 K. It is time for a new one.(clutch and/or converter). Another thing which I hope it isn't. Water in gas. If it is dump some alcohol in the tank, sold at many auto shops. Good luck

Check motor mounts and transmission mounts Also check the air tube (TOP AND BOTTOM) for hairline crack. A worn motor mount can cause excessive vibration and damage the air inlet tube.

I had a similar problem on my 2000 honda and while my fix might not work for you I would at least check a few things. First off depending on the blower setting (such as defrost, feet, mix, etc) those middle vents will not turn on. In defrost mode the outside vents will work and not the inside ones. (sorry probably obvious) In my car I found the the little plastic diverter in the vent had managed to detach from its track and was permanently closed, so when I opened up the vent it was just a matter of snapping that piece back into its track and then it worked. The only other thing I would check would be to see if the air 'feed' pipe (or whatever you call it) is still connected, in my old toyota it was above the passengers side foot area (kinda behind the glovebox) at one point it had slipped off its connection and just needed to be re-seated then I put a pipe clamp on it. If it does not seem to the an electrical issue then it is likely going to be some kind of mechanical failure. I would also consider checking your air filter under your hood and make sure its clean. These systems are primarily mechanical and fairly simple on Hondas (unlike bmw, audi etc...) hope this helps :-/

Sounds like a micro switch problem. the relay is staying and saying on even when off. An electric program test should fix the problem. They are small diagnostic machines that plug into a socket either under the bonnet or in/near the glove box.

the damper is jammed see the FSM on HVAC under damper tests or login to alldata.com it covers HVAC too.

Hi! The following link from engine-codes dot com will answer your question: http://engine-codes.com/p0740_honda.html Good luck!

Hi! I believe the following link will answer your question: http://engine-codes.com/p0706_honda.html Good luck!

double posted, back up one post, and give some time, be patient

bad tranny, do not drive it slipping or it will burn up clutch packs.etc. first off, scan it, get all DTCs ,like P07xx ? maybe a shift solenoid is bad and not a new $3000 tranny. or read the FSM. read the on car tests yours will fail the stall test. read the sections there. or take it in.

By "runs rough" if you mean vibrations then check your motor mounts. One or more could be broken.

doubt it.. dealer item..

can be lots of things, why guess? use a volt meter get schematic at alldata.com and use that to find , lost power or signals

you cant just replace an ECM you must replace the throttle body. find one online on ebay.

you can not just replace that part.will not fit on correctly. .you must replace the full throttle body try find good one kown to work found online.