Top 20 1999 Honda Accord Questions & Answers

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category from Misc. Probably the immobilizer https://www.google.com/search?q=1999+honda+accord+reset+security

I TOSS COIN LAND on 3.0L V6 J30a seriessee part 10 that is cam cog wheel backer platevideo shows it at take down. 15 is tdc1/2 pairhttps://youtu.be/f7hAXtuRB_Y?t=1494

A replaced water pump will not cause this problem unless the bearing has failed and the pump is putting an excessive drag on the crankshaft. A more common problem is that a sensor was removed or a sensor connector was disconnected to install it and was damaged, or not reinstalled or reconnected properly.

Return to the dealership for warranty if it failed in a day and half, that means they haven't repaired it for the price you paid.

Fix your car right away by clicking the link I attached https://www.reliable-store.com/products/1999-honda-accord-workshop-repair-service-manual-pdf-download-1

Did you check and make sure the cable hasn't just popped of and if is has it is really easy to put back on just take a look under the dash where the handle is.

get a locksmith to cut keys to suit the existing lock barrel then program the keys to suit the vehicle it is a difficult job to replace the switch so get a workshop manual if you want to do it yourself

Sounds like the ignition switch going bad.

Defective rack and pinion steering gear.

A bad O2 sensor would not prevent it from starting. The computer ignores the O2 sensor until the engine warms up. If the fuel pressure is good, check the engine coolant temp sensor. If that's bad, the computer may think the engine is warmer/colder than it really is and will give the wrong air/fuel mixture. Coolant temperature sensor testing

Great news, you can program a 1999 Honda Accord Key Fob yourself. Simply follow these instructions: Obtain all remote transmitters for this vehicle and read the instructions prior to programming. Entering programming mode will erase all previously programmed remotes for this vehicle. You must have all remotes available for programming including working ones.

• Enter vehicle and close all doors

• Each of the following steps must be completed within five seconds of completing the previous step. If you take longer than five seconds or make a mistake, you must start the entire procedure over.

• Insert the key into the ignition, hold one remote in your left hand with additional remotes close by. We recommend taking remotes off the key ring to perform the procedure. When the instructions say to press the LOCK button, you should press the LOCK button on the remote for approximately one second then release it.

Perform each of the next three steps in order, then repeat all three steps two more times for a total of three times each.

1. Turn the ignition to the ON position, marked II.
2. Press the LOCK button on the remote.
3. Turn the ignition to the OFF position, marked I. (Do steps 1-3 three times)

Next, turn the ignition switch to ON position, marked II. 4. Using the same remote, press the LOCK button again. The door locks should cycle indicating the vehicle has ENTERED programming mode. 5. Using the same remote, press the LOCK button again. The door locks should cycle indicating the vehicle has PROGRAMMED that remote. If you have other remotes to program then repeat step 5 with each additional remote one after another. Step 5 must be completed within ten seconds for each additional remote. You may program up to three remotes. 6. Turn the ignition to OFF. Test all remotes. If your remote has a trunk button you will need to hold that button down for several seconds for that function to operate.

I'm no expert sounds like the cars going into some kind of limp home mode the clunk could be drop link ,engine mounts sound dangerous at 70.

it could be more a relay problem, do you have the code as the code helps better different code reads come up with a generic code and code read will say what the code is but this can differ from what the code actually means, like Code 41 to test the sensor, do this. you will need a meter, Turn ignition off. Disconnect 4-wire connector from O2 sensor. Measure resistance between connector terminals "A" and "B" on O2 sensor. See Fig. 9 . If resistance is 15-20 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is not 15-20 ohms, replace O2 sensor. then this Check for continuity from each terminal of O2 sensor to ground. If continuity exists, replace O2 sensor. If continuity did not exist, check for continuity between O2 sensor terminal "A" and terminals "C" and "D" individually. See Fig. 9 . If continuity does not exist, go to next step. If continuity did exist, replace O2 sensor. there is a heater built into the sensor this heats the sensor to work more efficiently. if the heater is damaged this will not work properly, when the exhaust is up to temp it turns it off but still reads the heater. sensor reading is constant. if this fails the ecu log this as a fault and in USA it cuts the engine out. as there is a fault with reading the sensor. a weak or warong relay will also give a false problem but this is because the connections are not good, sometimes you can repair the relay if its not connecting properly, as the copper heats up and its arcing in the switch it will stop connecting until it has cooled down. you can clean the connections on thew switch inside the relay and adjust the copper arm so its a better connection when the relay is in use. O2 sensor this is not the case it could be damaged and need replacing, also if the weather has been wet and humid there could be a leak in the connector to the main wiring this can be a bad seal on the plug, check this for water and also check the connections inside as if they white this means water has gotten in there clean them with emery cloth to clean them back up to a shine and make a good connection. the relay has 2 plastic tabs that you use to open the relay up, they are in the bottom of the plastic use a flat blade or driver to prise it open. hope this helps.

I had a similar issue, with my 96 civic. Get a leak down test done. For me, it was bent valves.

The hissing could be a vacuum leak. Depending on the leak it could be a EGR valve issue, manifold gasket but you also need to check the fuel lines, pump and filter. It could also be a bad catalytic converter.

Probably fuel pump issue. if it has 100k or more miles, replace it. test for this would be to check fuel pressure while it is running and acting up, you'll see a marked difference in pressure at times it acts up.

It is normal (required) for the condenser fan to continuously run while the ac is operating. It is like that on almost every vehicle.

1998 to 2001 have been know to have a sticky build up on throttle body that has caused these kinds of problems. check it out

Wow, often people have no clues or details as to what is wrong....well you sir win the "covered all my bases" medal as far as I am concerned.....Sorry I can't help.

If it starts while holding your hand over the intake that tells me it is not getting gas. Is your choke working? Have you ever changed your fuel filter? A plugged filter will not let gas to the engine. do you have water in your gas tank? These are ideas to check.Could be dirty gas.