Top 20 1998 Honda Prelude Questions & Answers

running good --not a timing belt problem possible a balance timing belt problem as that shaft has to timed correctly or it accentuates the engine pulse vibrations run the fault codes and check for injector dirty problems

This is a very common problem on Honda vehicles. The security system is known to fail. Basically when you insert your key, the system checks for certain signal. If the system cannot get the correct signal from the key, it assumes the key is incorrect and goes into SECURITY lockout mode. (prevents hotwiring) This has been happening for a long time. There are ways to bypass this now. Read through this page for info, solutions as well. http://www.diy-gm-security.com/

check the bolt holes and bolts to inspect for damaged threads and repair or replace as needed. if this is good you may need to add Loctite to the threads of the bolts. use blue Loctite as this will allow removal later on if you need to remove the bolts.

On the passengers side possibly under a trim piece on the center console by the fl

Test or check the crank position sensor. Look for the 5 volt reference signal (your prelude may have a higher reference voltage- I don't know), check that the ground wire is good, then see if you get a signal from the signal wire. See if you can back probe the signal wire with the engine cranking. If the sensor is at fault, the ecu cannot determine spark timing. Look at a wiring diagram to see if the camshaft position sensor is also part of spark timing.

While just change ATF oil or CVT oil in transmission & old filter too. your car problem will be solve....

Check that the battery connections are tight.

The auto was notorious for clutch pack failure. Tolerances were tight in the inner workings and this caused inadequate oil flow and poor cooling. Sooner or later the auto transmissions fail. You could have the transmission rebuilt but that will cost a bit to do it so it wont break again. I might recomend going back to honda atf and changing the fluid again. If that does not work try an additive oil for the transmission. I had some sucess with the recomend product. last resort, have it swapped to a manual transmission. This is a cheap alternative as f series transmissions from the accord can bolt up to the h22 and can be found cheap at the expense of higher gear ratios.

i can not understand this, ATF-DW1 what is that. so ignore. it. shock, so harsh shifting in what gear, A/T 1>2 , 2>3 Upshifts or down shifting or both> ever check the fluid or do the 50k service on the A/T?

Did you check on fuse box there is written on cover wiper fuse, pls check & if its gone or lose pls fix or replase it ....

Its possible that you need some cyilinders repair there.

sounds like the temperature senser is shot and needs to be replaced, not a big job

We do not have access to these radio anti-theft codes, you will need to contact the and have the following info, cars VIN and radio serial number.

No! It doesn't sound right. I can see the calipers developing leaks depending on the weather there, but not the rotors. So either you already had bad brakes before it was parked or someone needs to give the mechanic a reality check.

BTW: Telling mechanics upfront that you want all parts that they replaced returned to you, will make it harder for them to slide something past you.

P1459 EVAP Emission Purge Flow Switch Malfunction. It could be part of the vacuum circuit that purges gasoline fumes from the fuel tank. Have you reset it to see if it comes back? I read from other sites that its the gas cap not being closed tight, so if you reset the code and tighten the gas cap until it clicks three time, this may have be the problem. if it returns then you may have to replace the purge valve. Hope this helps Tim

wow, some writeup-the voltage should be checked at the back of the alternator and the battery at the same time-if the pos post on the alternator reads 12.4 resting, that's what it should read at the battery too-and if it reads 14.4 volts running, at the battery, the alternator should read that too-if it does not (alternator reads 11.8, battery reads 12.40 it is the alternator. If the alternator reads 14.4 and the battery reads 12.4, the issue is wiring or the ecm is not allowing current to flow to the battery-there is an internal regulator in the alternator, but the ECM, if defective, can cause your issue. Check for relays or fuses that might be bad first, but it sounds like your ECM may be the problem and now you probably have another alternator issue which will have to be corrected first-then check the resting and running voltage at both places, and go from there. Testing an alternator off the car only proves it is good (or bad) off the car-therefore you need to determine what changes when mounted, and it can only be wiring (harness) , or control (ECM)

You will need to have the transaxle
removed and repaired

Figure $1500.00 min for trans

May as well do clutch while your in there

$2,500.00 Total

Yes.. there are left and right side wheels.. I doubt it will affect performance or will damage anything but there is a direction of rotation for the style of the wheel.. it is mostly appearance.

Remember if the tires you bought are directional .. they will have to remount them. I would guess the wheels are marked somewhere..

The "spokes" should be oriented with the trailing edge pointed rearward. This picture is the Passenger side or Right Wheel.. Best of Luck..

heres adiagram to check resistance of the sensor, it should be1200-1300 ohms, but take note the sensor could read good at this time this problem is intermitent and the sensor may be bad, check for continuty at the computer connector , if all wires are good then i would replace the crankshaft sensor/top dead sensor (CKP/TDC).next check conntinuty between sensor terminals and ground check all four prongs on sensor if theres continuity on any one replace sensor, next key off and sensor connected . remove the pcm 31 pin connector (C) here a diagram of it. at the pcm connector measure resistance between terminals C2 and C12 it should be 1200-3200 ohms, then check between C3 and C13, again 1200-3200ohms if the ohms are off then check wires that fail omh test.next test is with connector again test connector c2 (blue /white wire) to ground and C3 to ground if continuity exists then repair wire that fails between connector and sensor, if all tests are good then try a good pcm. i dont think its pcm, i think if its not a wire then replace sensor , but good luck and i hope this helps.

Hi,
the trunk light is activated when the trunk is opened. Quick check. When it is dark, carefully check around the trunk lid of the car for light being emitted from within the trunk, indicating that the trunk light is not operating correctl. If you feel confident in your skills. Open the trunk, and carefully adjust the trunk light so that the trunk lid contacts the switch and places it in the off position. Do exercise care when making adjustments, they are easily damaged.