1997 Honda Passport - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

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gearbox fault may be oil related. Try changing gear box oil and filters.

Minimum of 43-45# at the rail

Trani need a flush and the selonoid needs cleaning they r clogged with contaminate particles

may need to take inside door panel off and lubricate the moving parts that move inside the door when the key is turned. Had my previous old car lock freezing up a bit of CRC sprayed on moving parts and key turns.

Hi, The readings of the alternator should be 13V to 15V dc. I believe the regulator maybe at fault. Have it checked by your mechanic. There maybe a short in the wire harness. Good luck.

,filter , fluid level, bad trans

You may have missed a small gasket for the transmission filter, and the transmission may be sucking air instead of transmission fluid. Re-check your work, and make sure that ALL GASKETS are present, however small, and make certain you have not over-torqued any bolts holding the transmission filter into the valve body.

Starter relay not closing, could be fuse to the relay.

If you provide pictures with the wheel off I most certainly can help you. I have never done a Honda but they all have the same principle behind them. Just need a look at what you may need to get out of your way and what tools you will need. If it is frozen on I can even teach you a few swear words to chant.

lower left fron of engine

Sounds like a loose connection. Check your connections to the battery for a good clean connection, and that they are tightened down. You may also have a battery that's going bad- that happens after a while. The battery can not hold a sufficient charge to start the engine, as that takes a huge drain on the battery to turn the starter. Once the engine is running, the alternator is supplying the needed power, and the battery is just being charged (which wont help if it's bad).

this will be a case of seal replacement and bearing end float adjustment. I suggest an accredited steering specialist and limit the repairs to those items unless they can show proof of further damage needing replacement

I would suggest first to do a good cleaning of the oily areas just to make sure the oil is coming from the oil pan. If in fact comes from the area between the block and oil pan, then you need to separate the pan from the block. It may be necessary to part of the exhaust system that goes under the pan. Sometimes it is necessary to remove other parts such as brackets. Removing the pan is easy as it is fastened by a number of small bolts. You may need a repair manual for your particular vehicle. Hope this helps.

If your fuel gauge does not show any activity, in general you need to check if the sending unit from the fuel tank is actually sending a signal. Would need to make sure the circuitry is active, check for fuse failure. The most common fail is a faulty sending unit that is located in the fuel tank. If the sending unit is actually generating a signal then may be the gauge itself is faulty. Hope this helps.

How long is it since you replaced the car battery ? If the battery is old it can not store the full voltage any more, the problem is made worse in cold weather. If you have had the battery more than 3 years, and you have this problem, it is definitely time to buy a new battery.

You must remove the fuel tank, the pump is inside. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/justin_3ae27a9d61d6acd4

Low coolant is the usual culprit, followed by a bad thermostat. When the car is cold take the radiator cap off and check the coolant level and add as needed, then make sure overflow tank is at the correct level. If the radiator is low but the overflow has fluid, replaced the radiator cap.

just look at it , parked with a hot engine. its under 12-14psi pressure, so will leak , with ANY cracks your job is to look, and see the leak and the crack. my wild guess, is its a bad RAD. your short REAR, says zero. to me. it has huge area front and back , top to bottom ,left to right. btw, a hose can squirt AF fluid, so not cleaning it first then getting it hot, then seeing the true source of the leak is all just conjecture. clean it (water start car, see the leak now? bingo, and bingo the source. see any squirts from other objects. hoes ,water pump, manifolds.?

in truth? all coils work the same (telsa) way. what can be different , on newer cars is the charge dwell for high energy ignition. and lower primary coil impedance we can talk this for hours, i build CDI systems. but what is you real concern? answers: yes, it does, all cars from mid 80s to now have eletronic ignition (point went byebye) each generation makes more voltage and power. (study COPS) this is done 2 ways. (more power) 1: higher turns ratio of coil. 2: higher primary current and dwell duration (builds more power) what is the consern? 1: swaps 2: how it works. 3: what does electronic mean (it means no more points) 4: where to buy one. 5: what substitutions work.> and why some don't? 6: just wild curiosity? 7: what were the generational changes. 8: what is wasted spark?