20 Most Recent 1996 Honda Accord - Page 2 Questions & Answers

P1705: Short in Transmission Range Switch Circuit. So you changed the switch but didn't fix the short in the circuit. Check the wiring harness or connector for a short. Follow the harness and look for chaffed insulation or rubbing.

It sounds like a fuel problem try changing the fuel filter if it has never been changed before that could be your problem

no fluid in the clutch reservoir due to a failed clutch slave cylinder time to replace both the clutch slave and master cylinder

Check the lower gear selector solenoid pair, It is easy to remove and clean. Front right passengers side of automatic tranny, 96 to 2002 Civics and Accords and CRV. Whack it on its face a few times and blow it out with a compressor. Use a pencil and a rag to keep from losing all your fluid when you take it off. Check the sound of the click with a 12 volt battery. Sometimes the solenoids get stuck if the fluid gets varnished or if it sits too long. The upper solenoid pair is not so touchy. Bottom solenoid will sometimes prevent starting out in first and will go straight to 2nd or 3rd from start. Also some creep in neutral.

Cv as in cv joint? Look around the wheels for a dangling connector near a c.v. boot.

indicates a problem torque converter clutch servo/solenoid check that the wiring harness to the transmission has been properly reconnected after the repairs run the fault codes as well

Do the following

Here are the most common causes of idle surge, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake

If it,s got a distributor the condensation will have formed under the care move cap and spray with WD40. then spray all the electrical parts to do with the ign.coil etc spark plug,s.and leads.Wipe out cap with rag.

hi can you have it scan for a dtc code to know what the problem is or you can buy a diy scanner to do it your self

Check the wire circuit for voltage and ground. The top wire is voltage, you can see the wire color, use a test lite, with lights on. The bottom black wire is ground for low beams, chassis ground. You can use test light to check ground, With test light touching voltage, touch ground wire terminal, if the light comes on, at least, the ground is good enough to lite the test light.

Install the cylinder, then tighten the cylinder head bolts sequentially in 3 steps. step 1. 29 ft. lbs. step 2. 51 ft. lbs. step 3. 72 ft. lbs.

You need to run an engine control module fault code test. Based on the codes received you can then do a diagnosis of the problem,.