1994 Honda Accord - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

its in the operators guide. lost that. ive posted the link here 100 times. here is 101. coupe? RTM , its all there. http://justgivemethedamnmanual.com/honda/honda-accord-coupe-owners-manuals/ see fuse section...

no prende mi honda 97 lla le cambiaron el coil el sensor del tiempo y la computadora

sorry (just 1 wire or the whole car burned to ground, ?) the question is???? answer, replace them. or ask any electric shop to do it. any can, tell them you want heat shink job. if the connectors burned up. then??? bad news. no photos, no joy, damage has no limits, only EYES work.

RTM? read the manaul, its there. http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Accord/ varies by engine type. many.

need more detailes.

check power and ground at motor and try to change speed. may need resistor

if there good check wire for 12 volts and ground.

the cam belt snapped, ooops. bad news.no suck cranking and crank shaft actually spinslook down oil filler hole, is cam spinning?

sure can be lots of things, but in this case only 3.1-bad engine, (lost compression , warm or hot.) 150psi is min.2-bad spark, the spark parts can in fact fail for hot soak, the parts can get to a specific range of temperatures and fail.this is very common type failure, on all EFI cars. (fancy spark)3- last is #3 bad fueling. (too much or too little)?this works on all cars, that RUN most the time, but not today.why not troubleshoot it , when it fails. that is the #1 best time todiagnose any machine, can't diagnose a working machine.first off , i have no idea what this means. "wait about 5 min before check engine light will go off ."the CEL must com on , key on,if not the ECU bad or you lost 12vdc power to the ECU. (loose fuse?)then you start the car, my guess, is the 300rpm CEL rules is fooling you, most cars the CEL goes out at 300 rpm (even cranking as the ECU thinks the car is started... its kinda dumb.after the engine starts, the CEL MUST go out, if the CEL sticks on, you need to pull the DTCs. scan it.on this car it has a jumper plug to do the scan. (OBD1 old car)so when the car dont startyou pop the hood, and pull a new spark plug out of right picket.and do the spark test, (classic for 100 years)is the spark good,? yes, must be fuel if ,not , spark is badthis takes me 2 min flat, ready at all times, if parked. and stalled.so you have good spark. i then try all 4 cylinders. good to all 4?yes, good, no , bad dizzygood sparkit must be fueling failure.1: pull #1 spark plug(any) is it wet with fuel , its flooded.2: same is it dry, lost all fueling.once you get here, we know what part of the system is failing.and for sure if compression x4 is 150PSI on all 4 hot, and WOT.btw 2, the operators guide shows how to start a flooded engines.WOT cranking, all EFI cars, for that matter.fsm pages, http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Accord/

No idea here as never seen this model in a auto version,check the thing out with a multimeter first to see if you have power ,sorry i cannot help more without car in front of me but autos are not that popular here in spain

replace guage your speedometer is on its way to failing too your lucky its only the trip right now

say exactly what sensor, is it on the engine,?if A/T car , is it on the A/T tranny? (output as in trans output sensor?)engines?Engines include a 2.4 Liter 4-cylinder rated at 177 bhp (132 kW) with 161 lb·ft (218 N·m) for Lx-Se sedans and 190 bhp (142 kW) with 162 lb·ft (220 N·m) for EX-Ex-l sedans and coupes; as well as a 3.5 Liter V6 rated at 272 bhp (203 kW) and 254 lb·ft (344 N·m).

find them?for what spark or cam?

with all engines, (otto cycle)any engine Gasoline1: compression drops hot. (valve lash is tops here)2: lost spark. (did you check all 4 cyl for lost spark?) now is the time. (ill assume you can google,or youtube that , endless examples... and more every day.)3: bad fueling. (complex but)the tests is same 1920 to now, it's called LOOK at the spark tips.are they dry, or wet.?if dry do a test fuel run. (buy test fuel and use it)if wet , (1st tune up in 19years.??????)if wet diagnose flooding. (ask) complex answer.the other possible is lost 12v power to the EFI system.even an intermittent fuse. check power on all EFI fuses. at failure point, in fact all tests above are , yes, at the failure point.not a perfect running car.

A modern, well maintained vehicle's exhaust is virtually orderless once the catalytic converter has fired up. What you could smelling is oil leaking from the engine, for instance, from the valve cover that then drips down onto the hot exhaust where it vaporizes. That oil vapor is then ingesting into the passenger compartment through the fresh air intakes. Try airing out the cabin and then set the ventilation controls to recirculation mode to see if the problem persists. Also, the oil vapor will only happen when the exhaust is hot. So if you don't smell it when you first start the engine, that could be confirming this cause. Look at your engine and see if you see oil and dirt oozing from the valve cover gasket. You can try to tighten the oil cover fasterners to see if it stops the leak, but the best approach would be to replace the valve cover gasket.

Have you checked your engine coolant level? It may be as simple as that, or it could be more complicated. Have you changed your serpentine belt recently? Is/are the radiator cooling fan(s) coming on when the engine heats up? If engine is hot and you turn it off, do the radiator cooling fans continue to run for a period of time? Several possibile problems and solutions here. Need more info please.

I had an issue with a honda that i used to own, turned out to be the catalytic converter. When the exhaust pipes would heat up it would expand the already clogged catalytic converter and make it impossible for the exhaust to pass by, causing the motor to shut itself off.

And where is this squeeking noise originating from. Be very specific.

there is an E Z WAY for you to find out what is roung with youer lights .go to youer head light there are three wires there find the bigs one an make a small hole in it now get a pice of wiure that isa long enuiff to go form the head light to the batter ,strap at lest 1hafe of an IN'to baer wire so that you will get a good conatch to the +poted of the batter an the ether end to head light big wire .now remanber that that wire mosted also be straped 1 hafe IN 'so when you put the wire form batter to the light threr will be power to the light if ther is light when you do this then the swithes.is bad ,,that mines get a new light switch .now if ypou dont want to drive in the drark'i hope this helps you out

Sounds like a simple blown bulb in the clock. I would just check the fuse first and make sure that is good. If it is good, you will need to replace that bulb.