1994 Honda Accord - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

They will usually have a bad slave cylinder or clutch master cylinder. See if you see any leaks at those parts. The clutch master cylinder may leak on the back side so you may have to look underneath the dash to see it. Fill with fluid and pump pedal, have someone look while pushing on pedal. It will be wet from the leaking fluid.

No magic button fix. Replace the fuel filter, then check for proper pressure at the fuel rail, replacing the fuel pressure regulator and/or the fuel pump as required. If the car has recently been impacted or otherwise jarred, reset the inertia switch and verify that the fuel pump is operating. Replace all fuel in the vehicle to rule out contamination (especially if you have been using ethanol fuel blends in the vehicle over a course of a few years, since that causes moisture contamination and long-term damage to the fuel system). If possible avoid using ethanol blend fuels in your vehicle, and use a fuel system moisture remover in your vehicle monthly if you must use ethanol blends.

There are several possibilities with a car this old. It could be a broken timing belt, a bad fuel pump, a blown fuse,a bad relay, or a few other things. The fuel pump is easy to check. With the key off and car in park, or neutral and parking brake set if standard trans. Get down close to the fuel tank. Have someone turn the key on, but not crank the engine. You should be able to hear the fuel pump run for a short time then stop. If it is not a bad fuel pump you should get a mechanic to look at it. Most of the other possible problems will take some experience and skill to diagnose.

weak water pump low on water electric fan not working check fuss

Some where near the break pedal shaft. It should be easy to spot with an LED flashlight.

Here a check list;

1) Try in Neutral and Park. Make sure the transmission cutoff switch is not the problem.
2) Turn on the lights and try the starter. Do the lights dims ? If not no current is going to the starter. Turn off lights.
3) Do you hear a clicking sound from the starter ?' If yes give the starter solenoid several sharp hit with a hammer. The solenoid may be sticking. The starter will have to be replaced in a few days. This will only work for a few times.
4) If you do not hear a clicking sound from the starter then look for the starter relay. I think it's located under the dash. Make sure the wires are connected and the relay works. I believe it clicks also.
If that ok then
5) Look at the fusible link. This is usually under the hood in a box. Sometimes they melt or the contacts get corroded.

Is it actually overheating or is your gauge just saying it is, did you measure the water temp to see if you have a bad temp sensor? Have you started it from cold with the radiator cap off and let it warm up till water starts circulating so you can see that it actually is? New thermostat in backwards could cause it also.

Check the electrical section of the ignition switch.

The "wacky" dashboard could be a failing electrical section ignition switch. This could be causing the no start condition. Having spark doesn't mean it is in time, check cam timing and distributor timing, is it installed correctly and is the distributor rotor good? A common failure is a bad rotor.

It's located behind dashboard around left side of steering colum. Hard to find you have to lay on the drivers side floor head close to peddles and look up. Sometimes it's behind other componets depending on the options of your car. Held up by 2 screws 10mm just unplug and replace

From ZJ limited: "1.6L Engines Firing order: 1-3-4-2 Distributor rotation: Clockwise. "

The fuses for most things like that should be under the dash on the drivers left side. Hope this helps.

the famous ignitor failure, but lets not condemd this device. The ignitor only generate current to the coil to collapse the magnetic flux that is built up. you may not have spark at the plugs but you need to know if you have spark at the coil, there are many times yes ignitor did solve the problem but the problem was the coil make it easy on youself open the distributor cap and have some one or you can do it. with the cap open remeber the position of the distributor rotor and crank the car,not to long is the rotor in the exact same position cause if it is it a timing belt.or that the rotor which is mounted in a fixed position may have spun allowing the shaft of the rotor to not move. disributor rotor do fail when the inner hold doent grip the shaft, and the cap yes it does fail its a carbon filled material and the do short out and so does the coil it short out internally then there is the ignition switch and yes it fails to provide power to the coil positive side.. Take this as a solution replace the ignitor, with a cap and rotor, and the coil it easier that way

plugs leads timing

I would say the relay is bad. If you're handy with relays they'e fixable. You could go to youtube.com and search "Repair Car Relays" Otherwise replace the relay. Hope this helps.

Possible timing belt, remove distributor cap and crank engine, if distributor rotor don't turn bad timing belt.

You can try and have the fluid and filter changed, but if the smell and discolor comes back, it's time to have the tranny rebuilt or replaced.

If it's leaking from the piston than why not just replace it with a reman caliper. Unloaded you can get one for 40 - 50 bucks. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Is it the power steering hose or a transmission line.Honda does not usually attach power steering lines to the radiator, but the transmission cooler lines are attached to the bottom of the radiator. If it is the transmission cooler line leaking, simply replace the line from the radiator to the transmission with 1/2 inch transmission line and some new clamps.May want to do both lines while you are making the repair.