20 Most Recent 1994 Honda Accord - Page 6 Questions & Answers

I have seen a problem like this before, however it was on a 1998 to 2002 Accord. On those models it was one of two things; either the speed sensor that sends a radio signal from the transmission to the speedometer is bad, or the transmission itself is bad. If you notice that your speedometer doesn't register speed when you're driving then the sensor is bad. If not then I would say the problem is the transmission.

best guess is cv shaft needs a new one. Axle shaft replace.

hope this helps.

You need to remove the upper timing belt cover and make sure that your timing belt didn't jump. All it takes is the belt to jump one tooth on the sprocket to create this problem. One tooth equals 17 degrees of timing. Make sure that you can hear the fuel pump come on as well when the key is in the "on" position.

If the speedometer works, then the assembly is bad. If neither speedo or odometer work, bad speed sensors are a common failure.

the odometer not working must be just the odometer. no worries there is nothing wrong with the actual car, but going to the shop and getting it fixed would be the safest, best option.

I have a 99 accord and my speedometer and odometer did not work. The problem was the VSS vehicle speed sensor. The VSS is located on the transmission. Once I replaced it everything worked fine.

take your car to your local auto parts store for charging system diagnosis most will do it for free and you'll have a better idea of what needs to be done.

If you can drive it for a long time then it is not the alternator. The battery has a short charge duration and it is old. There is a parasitic drain on the system that is draining it when it is not running.

posible fuse brake switch shifter interlock selenoid or internal problem in side transmision

You have to remove the console and radio pod. Then remove 2 screws that you can now get to behind the pod. Then pry out the dash light dimmer switch (the one you use to adjust dash light brightness) remove the screw behind it that holds in the gage cluster trim. Then there is another switch on the other side under the cluster (don't remember what it is) and there is another screw behind it. Have fun, LOL!

it could be the e-brake may not be completely down allowing the switch to not be pushed all the way off, also the switch may be out of alignment not in the proper place. if the e-brake cable sticks a little it may the handle up enough to not turn off the switch.

Are your parking lights on? Maybe that is what is killing your battery?

Maybe it is low on fluid.

it sounds like you know what your doing ,so check all connections you made contanunity tester will help , check all fuses.

if it,s hydrolic look to put in fluid.