1991 Honda Accord - Page 7 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

http://www.manualslib.com/manual/464695/Honda-Accord.html here is 90 91 92 93 honda accord manual

Questions: Is it a carburetor or fuel injected model? Did the slow take off occur before or after you changed the plugs, wires, and timing belt? If it started after plugs, wires, and timing belt, I tend to believe the timing relationship between the cam and crank has changed (cam and crank are not timed together properly, off by a tooth or two). Unfortunately you will need to partly tear into it again to verify the timing marks used when the timing belt is changed are perfectly aligned.

Oil in the cylinder(s) can foul plugs, resulting in misfiring and thus loss of power. Another possibility is that the oil in the cylinder(s) comes from oil leaking into the cylinders. If these leaks are of sufficient size, they will reduce compression in the cylinder, and thus reduced power upon the cylinder firing.

unusual but yes...both bulbs can blow out simultaneously...

this e how pretty mutch explains the whole troubleshooting prosess: How to Troubleshoot Brake Switch on Honda Accord eHow altho image is for the 02 honda accord the 91 uses the same switch system

An engine needs 3 things to run. Spark, fuel and compression. Did you check cam timing?

trans is in sport mode on the shifter there is a button push it and it will go off push it again and it will come on again to inform you its in sport mode

check vacuum lines,check power booster on brakes check spark plugs and leads

Don't forget there are two set of fuses..under hood and under dash. I don't like running around without a map so if you have a wiring diagram that would help. If not the owners manual tells you what fuses protectl what.

if u have a four door check your back doors for a loose switch or broken one thats what happened to mine good luck

It isn't the voltage that concernes me rather than the amperage your battery can have a dead cell or melted cell try using a new battery first! then if no start move on to the ecm you can go to a salvage yard and get a used one but then again how long will it last is the question? Also are you tired of walking determines the resolution to your distributor woes! aftermarket ones are not machined exactly to spec as the oem component! The distributor shouldn't have a condenser if you have an ecm! Hope this helps you out? www.youtube.com/watch?v=BKjzQ-vBvco If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/james_8f14c50d9c6cdea8

You need to be skilled at electrical for this, you have to check for shorts to ground on any wires related to the ecu fuse. And for any shorts into other wires. I suspect there are more melted wires. You could us a Honda factory ETM.(electrical troubleshooting manual). You should be able to find one on EBAY, for a good price.

Must have a short or wrong fuse value fitted.

The short circuits he introduced has blown a fuse somewhere. Pull out and look at each one. I'm sure you will locate one that is blown. He should never proceed with such installs without first downloading the wiring diagram on the car, that's the only way to know what to expect to see when connecting that sort of thing.

sounds like the stator is going out you may be better off buying a rebuilt one

If you want to change the starter motor, first disconnect the positive cable to the battery. Then under the intake manifold on the passenger side and between the engine and the firewall you should see the starter motor. It has a large cable that comes directly from the battery and a small wire that comes from the ignition. Disconnect both of them and then there should be two bolts that thread into the engine block, one on the top and the other one on the bottom. remove those and the started should be free. Replace in reverse.

Cuando el motor sube y baja de revoluciones cuando esta andando pero el vehiculo sin moverse, puede ser que sea la valvula que se llama air control valve. En el honda civic esta localizada sobre el manifold de entrada, muy cerca del throttle body. La reconces porque tiene un toma electrico y dos mangueritas que conducen enfriador (antifreeze). Esta sostenida por dos tornillos. Desconecta el enchufle electrico y las dos mangeras y limpiala con limpiador de carburador en los puertos de gases de emision. Asegurate que en los tomas de las mangueritas hay pase sin resriccion. Espero que esto ayude y reporta tus resultados.

When the car is completely cool,check the electric fan(s) for smooth rotation.

Clean/check/change the thermo sensor,contact and wire.

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Excavate air pocket in coolant system / check for head gasket leak

This test will kill two birds with one stone.

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MAKE SURE THE COOLANT SYSTEM and ENGINE IS COLD!

RAN THIS TEST IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA ONLY!

You will spill some coolant during this air pocket purge test.......BE KIND TO THE ENVIRONMENT and ANIMAL please clean up after the test!

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Put the front end on a pair of ramp or park your car on a VERY STEEP HILL (radiator facing top of the hill) .

Top of the coolant reserve tank

Let it ran for 10-15 minutes.

Monitor for air pockets escaping from coolant reserve tank.

Small amount of bubbles is OK at 1-5 minute mark

After the thermostat open up (after 195 F warm up) at
5-12 minute mark or after high idle you should see less bubbles.

If you do not see any in rush of bubbles then your thermostat may be partially stuck or rusted badly inside the thermostat hosing.

Give the thermostat host few gentle taps.

If you see larger bubbles surfacing after 15 minutes then should do a hydrocarbon (HC) dye test to test for potential head gasket leak.

Let engine cold down and top off coolant reserve tank.

Start monitor for coolant lost

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A coolant flush is require every 2 years or 24,000 miles.

I recommend the thermostat that has a relief pop-let to reduce the change of burst radiator and coolant hoses.

Make sure you get a new thermostat gasket,black RTV and fresh coolant for the job.

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1.Verify that the cooling system is full of coolant and there is no air in it. 2. Remove the air boot from the throttle body and cover the throttle body with something that will stop the airflow . the Fast Idle Valve is the problem.

I would remove the distributor cap and crank the engine over . If the rotor does not turn , then you need to replace the timing belt. The timing belt needs to be replaced every 60 K. If the rotor turns then make sure you have spark to a spark plug. Run a compression test on each cylinder. The basics to run are compression, spark, fuel and timing.