1990 Honda Prelude - Page 6 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

if they both are the 2.0L they are the sme thing.

I did. I sent some diagrams.

A clogged radiator or thermostat will produce the same results.Replace both.

There is no easy way, the water pump is driven off the camshaft belt, you must pull the timing cover to remove the belt, line up all the timing marks before you remove the belt, don't reuse the belt.

yes I will mail the information.

I will do some copies and send to you as soon I can.

Hi...

The first step you need to do on your Honda,
Is check if the Cluster show the Vehicle Speed.
If not You need to fix the Cause of not speed.
Because the Overdrive is strictly comanded at certain speed.

But if the Speed signal is good , you will need to test the Overdrive selenoid...

Ok. Letme know if you need instructions to test, or any info you need.
For try to solve your problem..

Thank you for use fixya...

it is the main relay...located behind the coin box. it cuts the fuel pump...VERY common on ALL Gen 3s.

check the Main Fuel Relay located by the fuse panel, I replaced mine and it solved the starting problem

With an idle control problem like this, you need to check for codes. One possibility is a code 14 Electronic Air Control Valve failure. Remove the connector at the valve and measure the resistance at the valve terminals. If the resistance is not 8-15 ohms, replace the EACV. Another problem could be with codes 1, 41, or 43, which pertain to the O2 sensor, which could have been affected by running the engine with no exhaust system. Try resetting the codes by removing the back up (Clock) fuse in the relay box under the hood for ten seconds. One more thing to check is for code 10 Air Temperature Sensor (TA). Resistance across the TA terminals should measure from 1000 to 4000 ohms.

Well, the engine requires backpressure and a ventway for the exhaust; however it shouldn't be causing that.

The temp is explained simply by the speed of the engine, that's a really high RPM for no load and it's gonna head up quickly. Try seeing if you can adjust the throttle itself and see if that's incorrect somehow. I'm not sure on the prelude but I believe the cable is adjustable.

The only things holding the engine from going to such an RPM is the throttle itself. If it's opened to far the RPM will rise by giving the engine more air/fuel through the intake. So make sure that throttle is closing. I believe it should just about be completely shut on that car. I think it's only about 1/8th inch gap or somewhere close to that. I'm not positive on that and you'll have to work with it to find it.

If you can't adjust your cable, try disconnecting the cable completely and see if the throttle closes. If so the RPM should go down to an idle or somewhere close for you. Hope this helps bud!

This prelude model on my experience the cause of in emission either map sensor near the throttle body and the small hose is connected. Next the coolant sensor below the distributor w/ two wires and the fuel pressure is cause by bad fuel pressure regulator at the end of fuel rail or the fuel return line closed. I hope this will give help to you.

The first step in wheel stud replacement is to remove the old one. On almost every car, this is done by taping them out from the threaded side
.
Rotate the hub so that the back side (flat, on the back side of the hub) will not smash into something when you tap it out.
You will need a heavy hammer and safety glasses,

Next, while the glasses are on your face, use the hammer and whack on the threaded end of the old stud to drive it out the back side of the hub. If if was broken off real short, you might have to use a punch to transfer the hammer blows to what is left of the stud.

To install the new one, place it in the hole from the back side and use a standard lug nut on the new stud screwed on backwards (flat end toward the hub) and then use the car's lug wrench to tighten the nut and pull the stud into the hub. Make sure the grooves in the hub line up with the ridges in the new stud before trying to seat it.

Once the stud is fully seated, remove the lug nut. You are done.

I usually buy a standard lug nut that fits the replacement stud to do this procedure because most mag nuts are closed on the back end. It is cheap and will save lots of time.


Tad

is it fuel injected or carburator?

go to honda .com and find a manual ,,,you can order there for one

well your best bet would probably buy a new one unless its a simple leak you can replace yourself

A big pair of channel locks will collaspe the caliper but it does take some muscle or you can release the brake line nut and releave the pressure but then you would have to bleed the brakes.

The problem is likely in the injection module which is located in the dash right behind the flip down tray to the right of the flip down fuse door the the left of the steering wheal.To test simply rapidly slap the fuse/vanity flip down door area while starting the car and it will start.I have had 5 preludes and all have the same problem a replacement is 150 or you can sotter all the connections on the board inside the fuel injection module.This will fix the problem as the original connections develop miniscule cracksAll preludes have this problem in really hot or cold weather

flick the cover, my rpm needle does it sometimes and i flick it and it jumps back up.

Taking the thermostat out would be an overall bad idea because the coolant will flow too fast and it will not have a chance to be cooled down by the radiator.

Have you had the car serviced? make sure fuel filter and spark plugs with Lead are changed.