1990 Honda Prelude - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Check all fuses.

if the catalytic converter is plugged,you will have low exhaust output.
The only sure way to tell is to disconnect the cat and see if the power changes.

Remember most of these vehicles have a safety switch on them that kills the ignition fire if the clutch is not pushed in all the way. Sometimes these switches go out. You also have a master fuse for the engine that could be blown. If it is an automatic they also have a safety switch to tell when the vehicle is in park. You can bypass that by putting the car in neutral and trying to crank it. If the car has been bump hard or in a wreck then it has an inertia switch that kills the flow of fuel.

i first would check see if getting spark and maybe checking make sure timing belt didn't break

Oil the gasket first with engine oil - let it soak for a minute or two (its in the manual!) First stage 40nm - second stage 70nm - third stage 100nm - Tightening sequence - looking from top of engine with the flywheel on the left, top set of bolts from top left to top right bolts 1,2,3,4,5--------- Bottom set of bolts bottom left to bottom right 6,7,8,9,10-------- tightening sequence is - 8,3,7,4,9,2,10,1,6,5 -

check the IAC sensor if good and if you have a vacuum leak

How long has this been happening? Your battery light stays on when you have a charging problem.

well this depends on what is wrong with them. Bulbs are easy to replace, wiring faults are not so easy. Do they work..? do they only work on one beam, high or low..? we need more information then this..

Could be your crank sensor or the distributor. Do you have a check engine light if not chang the distributor.

need to check fuse first then check coil

replace it

It could be a worn cv joint. They usually knock while turning, then get progressively worse.

Try changing the gas filter - could be a clogged filter, and draining a bit out moves the blockage out of the way.

Look at the rear top of the gearbox/clutch bellhousing, below and behind the distributor. Well hidden, two bolts to fix, with a plug on the top.

CHECK THE PCM IGNITION FUSE.SINCE THE COMPUTER CONTROLS FIRE AND FUEL.

There is a fuel pump relay. Check your manual in the golve box for the location, or ask the parts store. If you have no power at the fuel tank that is your most likely source of the problem, Take a test light and check the legs of the fuel pump relay. There should be power at two of them. if there is no power there, save your money and take it to a professional because it will take an expert to track down the reason for no power.

The person who fix your leaks on the a/c should of replace the dryer,or they souldnt have done the work at all.If you can recover the freon in tha a/c system all dryers will work with 134a.But dont work on it if the freon is still in the system.And if you dont get all the air out the system it wont work very good.Best bet let someone with the correct tools do this job.

you can pull fuel injector fuses and remove the gas cap but try to start it a few times so it relieves the pressure that was there...if it does not work on some honda i put a rag underneath the fuel rail and open the large bango nut that connects the line to the fuel rail just crack it 3/4 turn till it leaks a little and let it squirt out the pressure just wear eye protection its pretty easy fuel filter to do..

check if the rad fan is running optimally. Also, check the interval wherein the rad fan turns on and off.. usually, rad fan should be on most of the time... if it constantly turns off.. your thermostat is probably busted

the main fuse is atached to the side of the fuse box under the coin box you need to pull the fuse box out