1989 Honda Prelude - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

check the fuses under the hood usually on the passenger strut wall , there is a power lead that feeds them check with a test light to see if there is power going in and fuses light up if not trace back to battery and replace

check belts see if any pully isnt spinning.

simply unplug and use a 7/8 wrench and a lot of muscle use a small amount of anti seize during installation.

A broken tie rod end or a bad rack and pinion.

Hello there, The slave cylinder for the hydraulic clutch is mounted to the very front of the transmission and is only held in place with two bolts and the hydraulic line, see item #42 (x2) and item #26 in the attached photo.You might as well let the old hydraulic fluid drain completely and fill with fresh fluid when you get done. I would take the hyraulic line off the slave cylinder and put it in a jar. Then open the master cylinder cover and let it gravity drain completely. This will allow you to replace all the parts with a minimal amount of fluid getting all over. Remember, brake fluid damages car paint!The clutch master cylinder is a little bit more tricky in that you have to get under the dash to remove the bolts holding it in. Other than that, you might have to take your old reservoir and attach it to the new master cylinder unless your new one comes with a reservoir. I doubt it will and you don't need it to anyway. Item #37 and #43 are the studs and nuts you will have to release to get the master cylinder off the firewall. Of course pulling the tube to the reservoir and the hydraulic line should be done before removing the mounting nuts. There may be a clip holding the clutch pedal linkage to the clutch master cylinder push rod.Once everything is reassembled and everything is tight, fill the master cylinder reservoir and then loosen the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder. You can depress the clutch pedal to force brake fluid from the master to the slave but if it goes like mine did, once I got the fluid running, it forced out all the air! I put a rubber hose over the bleeder screw and put it in a jar partially filled with brake fluid and kept adding fluid until no more air bubbles came out of the tube. You will know when everything is ok because the clutch pedal doesn't seem to want to come back up unless there is sufficient pressure in the clutch to force it back up. Buy about a quart of brake fluid to flush the lines and leave it topped off. Good luck...

Most older honda's do not have trans filters and only require a drain & fill of the fluid.

try your fuel pump relay

Pay a visit to Autozone.com and enter your vehicle information . Click on repair guides to access the wiring diagrams and fuse box information .

There are some possibilities which you will have to check in this case:--

1) First of all check the power and voltage to the battery. With meter it will show exact 12 volt if the battery is charged. If the voltage is less get the battery charged at local auto repair shop. If the battery is internally drained and not getting charged then its time to replace the battery.

2) When you crank the car do you see spark coming at the spark plug? If no then its time to check the spark plugs and coil pack. If the spark plugs are not worn out and looks new then its time to check coil pack. The spark plug gets power to spark from coil pack.

3) The other thing to check in this case is the starter solenoid of the car. If the battery is charged and you start the car then it gives power to the starter to start the car. But if starter is faulty or not connected properly then car will not start.

4) The other thing to check in this case is fuel in the car. If there is fuel in the car then check the blockages in the fuel pump if the fuel pump looks proper then check the fuel filter above the fuel pump.

5) If all the above possibilities mentioned above checked out OK/perfect then it's a electrical issue and the wiring's in the car needs to be checked. The car gets power from the battery to get started. so the wires from battery needs to be checked one by one.

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HI, the fact that the light is not staying on steady all the time is a good indication the alternator is failing. I would recommend having the charging system checked.

i have seen similar cases where the alternator is from a newer or different model and the 4 th wire doesn't apply, just connect it and see what happens

check for power with someone cranking the engine if power pump is bad if not look into the main relay also timing belt

purchase or order a shop manual it will be well worth it when it omes to your wiring

nope

Hi,
Sounds like your power brake Vacuum Booster has a leak. The vacuum
leak will cause the engine to lose RPM.
You should have it checked out as it will eventually start affecting your
brakes.

So you have no crank no start correct?
Battery must be fully charged ( three day charge) or new.Make sure battery cables are clean and tight.
Use meter and make sure B+ making it to starter .
If B+ not at starter then check cable to starter and neutral safety switch and ignition switch.

This is for crank no start

B+ goes from battery to Ignition switch to coil to switching device( ignition module) to plug.
use a volt meter and find out where B+ stops.

go to a junk yard they always have fuse covers

the fuel inertia switch should be located on drivers side of the trunk. there will be hole in the liner the relay is located behind it

you could try looking in the fuse box in the engine bay should be in there

Go to the horn remove the electrical connectors and jump it directly to the battery. if it works then you have to get the wiring diagram for the horn and check for B+ at the electrical connector to the horn,fuse and relay.
If all is good before you go to the horn switch protected by an air bag on the steering wheel READ THE SHOP MANUAL on stabilizing the air bag before you check out this switch. Remember this could be a $1200 dollar mistake if you deploy that air bag so be careful. Any problems write back I'll get you threw it.