20 Most Recent 1989 Honda Prelude - Page 3 Questions & Answers

To be completely honest, it's impossible to say even looking carefully. The only real way to be SAFE is to go to a specialist centre and have your entire steering geometry checked out. Even if you were to change most (or all) of the replaceable components, the problem could well be where they attach to the sub-frame or chassis. Get it checked!Best of luck!

Yes, it would. That switch enables the starter only when the clutch is fully depressed.

If the miles turn fine and the speed arm doesnt move you have a problem with the tachometer this is refeered to as RPM,This get is signal directly at the ignition negaive part if the coil, If the connection at the coil is in good order a RPM gauge or Tachometer will be your solution

Use the thick mark on the flywheel itself and line up with the cast pointer or bump near the 15.If it still does not start- if you removed the distributor, bring the cylinder number one to top dead center, make sure both followers are on the cam lobe heals, and rotate the distributor gear to line up the rotor to correspond to the factory number one cylinder location. It will take a couple tries as the gear teath are cut slightly hellical. Then verify the rotation direction of distributor, and install the plug wires in the correct firing order.If you just replaced the plug wires and pulled them all off at once, verify the distributor rotation, and start from the factory designated tower for the plug wire for cylinder number one.

Hi there:I suggest check this links, according with the fuel system:- Fig. 62: Vacuum hose routing-1989 carbureted Prelude (except California)- Fig. 63: Vacuum hose routing-1989 carbureted Prelude (California)- Fig. 64: Emission component schematic-1989 carbureted Prelude- Fig. 65: Vacuum hose routing-1989 fuel injected PreludeHope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I will appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer. Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

Yes there is a hose there which does leak, pull out the air filter box and you will see it, it is easy to replace.

Sounds like the common main relay problem that plauges this generation of Hondas. These Matsuba relays are usually the problem. I am in the midst of the same issue with my CRX with a 1.5 liter transplant. Relay is located under the dash in the drivers compartment area of the vehicle. Identified as a small black box with a connector pluged into it. Will say Matsuba Rz and some serise of 4 numbers dependent on your particular relay. There are a lot of diagrams to check the relay. After detemining the type of relay you have just search Bing or Google for Matsuba (what ever seriese relay) schematic. My suggestion for a site: http://techauto.tripod.com/index.htm. Good luck!

forget that ,, replace the ignition switch, hondas are known for ignitions going out, your intermittent supply of power is from the switch itself

Disconnect wire connector plugs,remove three 12 mm bolts,the distributor will then slide out.The drive tab is offset,so will only go in one way.

any number of things can be bad on a car that old, and you can't put more money into it than it is worth, which is about 300 bucks if running well. i would suspect the plug wires, and the distributor/cap/rotor if it has that type of spark delivery. if fixing up the ignition does not help, I would get the compression checked before anything else.

It sounds tempature related I would check the engine coolant tempature sensor Its going to be near the upper radiator hose where it attaches to the engine block a false reading from this sensor could screw up other systems abiblty to give correct readings to the vehicle control system and cause a lot of unasual unrelated problems to acure If you can i would seggest that you take it to an auto parts store most will read the codes for free although you have what is called an OBD 1 SYSTEM on board dianostic system OBD 11 is the newer system its likely a sensor and you will likely be able to fix it for under 50 dollars mabey 20 Good luck with it

check the fuses under the hood usually on the passenger strut wall , there is a power lead that feeds them check with a test light to see if there is power going in and fuses light up if not trace back to battery and replace

check belts see if any pully isnt spinning.

simply unplug and use a 7/8 wrench and a lot of muscle use a small amount of anti seize during installation.

A broken tie rod end or a bad rack and pinion.

Hello there, The slave cylinder for the hydraulic clutch is mounted to the very front of the transmission and is only held in place with two bolts and the hydraulic line, see item #42 (x2) and item #26 in the attached photo.You might as well let the old hydraulic fluid drain completely and fill with fresh fluid when you get done. I would take the hyraulic line off the slave cylinder and put it in a jar. Then open the master cylinder cover and let it gravity drain completely. This will allow you to replace all the parts with a minimal amount of fluid getting all over. Remember, brake fluid damages car paint!The clutch master cylinder is a little bit more tricky in that you have to get under the dash to remove the bolts holding it in. Other than that, you might have to take your old reservoir and attach it to the new master cylinder unless your new one comes with a reservoir. I doubt it will and you don't need it to anyway. Item #37 and #43 are the studs and nuts you will have to release to get the master cylinder off the firewall. Of course pulling the tube to the reservoir and the hydraulic line should be done before removing the mounting nuts. There may be a clip holding the clutch pedal linkage to the clutch master cylinder push rod.Once everything is reassembled and everything is tight, fill the master cylinder reservoir and then loosen the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder. You can depress the clutch pedal to force brake fluid from the master to the slave but if it goes like mine did, once I got the fluid running, it forced out all the air! I put a rubber hose over the bleeder screw and put it in a jar partially filled with brake fluid and kept adding fluid until no more air bubbles came out of the tube. You will know when everything is ok because the clutch pedal doesn't seem to want to come back up unless there is sufficient pressure in the clutch to force it back up. Buy about a quart of brake fluid to flush the lines and leave it topped off. Good luck...