Top 20 1989 Honda Civic Questions & Answers

Switch may be bad . If you have no power to any accessories .

Starting w the timing belt, It must be removed to replace the water pump, there's shouldn't be any addtl labor involved to install a new one. Since the fuel is leaking & the converter is overheating you are asking for BIG TROUBLE if u don't replace them both. Fuel & converters DONT MIX!

get your car fix right now 1989 Honda Civic Workshop Repair Service Manual PDF Download

This could be a lot of things. All of which are none that you replaced. Check the ignition module. Looks like this: http://www.partstrain.com/store/??N=0&Ne=12058&Nr=AND%28part%3AIgnition+Module%29&PN=0&VN=4294962818+4294962817+4294967144&Nr=AND(part:Ignition Module) Then if that is not the issue, check the fuel pump.

if the motor oil was out I'm afraid the engine was damaged and some bearings of it make now noise and other problems. then you need to look for a replacement motor from a junkyard or eBay....as rebuilding the engine might be too expensive... 24results for 1989 Honda Civic

If it has a dip stick to check the level it will be around the transmission end of the engine .Accredited auto transmission shops have a suction pump and hose that fits down the dip stick hole to draw out excess oil . Find an accredited transmission shop with experience in your make of car and talk with them to get some idea of what is involved.

Follow the Positive lead from the battery. It splits into two paths. One path goes to the starter. The other goes to a fuse panel. There is a 55A fuse there that most likely is blow. There is an additional 45A fuse that may also be toasted.

Your Civic has a manual tranny - correct? The problem could be a bad Clutch Safety switch. Many Hondas are listed as having this switch with the manual tranny. The switch prevents the car from starting if the tranny is in gear and the clutch is not depressed, preventing the car from lunging forward. If the switch is there , it is located on the clutch pedal bracket. The switch has two wires, so if you remove the electrical plug from the switch and jump the plug, maybe the car will start? Good Luck!!!

under hood fuse box list on the cover

Get the crank and cam timing set before you put the rocker arms on.

Phillip since you have a Honda try craigslist or eBay. I wouldwould suggest a rebuilt with warranty over a rebuild without or maybe a used one carbs can be sensitive if used and put on a shelf for a long time gasoline will corrode the inside. Hope this helps money spent wisely saves in the long run.

Did you triple check that your timing was correct and that none of the pistons where damaged since that is an interference engine, meaning that f the timing belt breaks or in your case the cam broke (other half stopped moving), the piston may have ran into the valve causing damage to the valve and possibly the piston.

check for missing vacuum hoses. run fault codes to check for wires not properly connected . Have a compression test done as broken timing belts generally bend valves . IT may not be noticeable but will be enough to affect the engine performance.

With due apologize, the very first thing which I would like to amend is that it is not 22 k but it is 2.2 k (2200 rpm). To solve the problem please check the following: - Vacuum leaks. (PCV valve, A/C idle up vacuum switch and actuator, vacuum hoses routing, gasket intake manifold, distributor vacuum dash pot. - Valve clearance. - Ignition system. - Carburetor vents and lines for clogged. - Idle speed solenoid switch and its connection. (Remove the solenoid, put a finger on its hole on the carburetor, start the engine keeping the finger on the hole. If it maintains the stable rpm replace the solenoid or check the voltage on the switch). - Adjust the air fuel mixture.

I don't want to cause you any worries but here's what I think happened. When any light flashes on your dash, it means you have a big problem. Did you run your car without checking the oil ? It may have run out of oil. If that is the case , the cylinder , pistons, and rings have been shot. The second cylinder busted an oil ring. Which means you may have to have the engine overhauled. Or you can also buy a used or new engine. Any way you look at it it's going to cost a good penny to fix it. Check the compression on all cylinders. I'm betting they have little or no compression. Especially the second cylinder.

you may have cracked the distributor cap... Hot engine plus water can put a hairline crack in the cap. the crack will allow moisture to build up inside and allow the spark to jump causing the car to not crank at all in most cases. try removing the cap and check for any moisture what so ever and then wipe clean with a clean dry cloth replace the cap and try to crank the car again... if it starts you will still need to replace the cap just because the crack will allow more moisture in every time humidity is high. don't mix up your spark plug wires remember your firing order is 1-3-4-2 washing the engine will hot at all especially while running is never a good idea... next time wash it first thing in the morning and still don't drive it for at least 4 to 5 hours or untill all the water is compleately dried up.

Is there any work done on the Civic before this no start condition? ==== Use a bottle of yellow HEET dry gas to remove any moisture problem in the fuel. Clean / replace air filter. Top off ATF to MAX level. Use starting fluid to aid starting.

old god, love em. 4cyl? or D5Z1? ill answer for the harder the better, for me, a challenge. so did you look up those codes, google them (millions of hits) i guess not. so 4. crank sensor dead. 14 IAC , bad idle controls. 16 fuel injector issues. best of best is.... here, then click OBD1 (relics) http://www.troublecodes.net/honda/ we always fix spark first, cant burn fuel with bad spark. so code 14. the CKP is bad, or not plugged in ever seen an FSM http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Civic/ im not sure above, covers 14s. but it is a malfing CKP sensor and the ECU never lies about that. the signal is weak or dead, or drops out 1 in 10 hits.

check the fusses and fusible links they run straight off the positive baterry terminal

2013, a long long time ago....is probable sold now or is razor blades...