20 Most Recent 1989 Honda Civic - Page 2 Questions & Answers

With due apologize, the very first thing which I would like to amend is that it is not 22 k but it is 2.2 k (2200 rpm). To solve the problem please check the following: - Vacuum leaks. (PCV valve, A/C idle up vacuum switch and actuator, vacuum hoses routing, gasket intake manifold, distributor vacuum dash pot. - Valve clearance. - Ignition system. - Carburetor vents and lines for clogged. - Idle speed solenoid switch and its connection. (Remove the solenoid, put a finger on its hole on the carburetor, start the engine keeping the finger on the hole. If it maintains the stable rpm replace the solenoid or check the voltage on the switch). - Adjust the air fuel mixture.

Is there any work done on the Civic before this no start condition? ==== Use a bottle of yellow HEET dry gas to remove any moisture problem in the fuel. Clean / replace air filter. Top off ATF to MAX level. Use starting fluid to aid starting.

CAUTION: It is advisable to get this job done by a qualified technician otherwise you will take the consequences. Do the following job at your own risk. - Place the car on a level floor. - Pull up the hand brake. - Block the rear wheels with wheel stoppers, wooden blocks or bricks. - Call a friend or relative to depress the foot brake, turn the steering wheel little towards left side and put the car in 4th gear. - Loosen the axle nut force fully (large one in the center of wheel) with a socket and double extension rod. - Loosen the four wheel nuts. - Lift up the front left wheel with Jack, place a support under the strong chassis and remove the jack. - Remove all the wheel nuts and remove the front left wheel. - Place a container or tray under the inner CV joint to preserve the transmission oil which will come out unavoidably during the axle removal. - Remove the lower ball joint nut. - Remove the tie rod end. - You don't have to remove the hub completely but to release it a little. - Pull the hub out by pressing the CV joint in and take the outer end of the CV joint out of the hub. - Place a strong long chisel like lever between the inner CV joint cup and the transmission and push the cup away from the transmission to take the lock out of its host.

check the fusses and fusible links they run straight off the positive baterry terminal

Error code 16: Fuel injectors circuit malfunction.

old god, love em. 4cyl? or D5Z1? ill answer for the harder the better, for me, a challenge. so did you look up those codes, google them (millions of hits) i guess not. so 4. crank sensor dead. 14 IAC , bad idle controls. 16 fuel injector issues. best of best is.... here, then click OBD1 (relics) http://www.troublecodes.net/honda/ we always fix spark first, cant burn fuel with bad spark. so code 14. the CKP is bad, or not plugged in ever seen an FSM http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Civic/ im not sure above, covers 14s. but it is a malfing CKP sensor and the ECU never lies about that. the signal is weak or dead, or drops out 1 in 10 hits.

Idle hunting is a favorite hobby of Hondas. The most common cause is a bubble in the coolant - if the coolant is drained and refilled without bleeding the system it will do that. Look at the housings where the radiator hoses attach to the engine. On top of one of them will be a nipple, like a brake bleeder nipple but larger. Open it half a turn and close it when a steady stream of coolant comes out.

The oil at the spark plugs is probably from a valve cover gasket leaking-not a problem, as far as the ignition system, but if too much, replace the valve cover gasket.The heat at the negative post of battery indicates a loose connection, either there or where the cable is grounded, so check both and tighten. Also check engine to frame ground for any issue.For no spark at the plugs, take off your igniter (the ignition control module) and have it tested for free at a parts store. If it is good, the distributor should be looked at. Is the rotor and dist. cap in good condition? There may be a pick-up coil inside the dist. for spark timing control-you would have to consult a wiring diagram or ask a Honda person familiar with your '89 civic. Some of them don't have replaceable parts for inside the dist., but require a new distributor-you will have to check that. Good luck. I like to see the old hondas still running: gives me hope for my '87 Sentra.

where can i get body parts for a1989 honda civic sedan right hand drive

you need a new one!

Had the same problem and changed parts in the distributor. Car runs now.

The starter relay should be under the hood or under the dash depending on if you have had a swap or not. Good Luck!----------------------------------------------------------------------Car Key Programmers

You need to run a fault code test on the elctronic engine control system, to learn how to do that and read the codes go here.

We do not have this diagrams. Please download a factory repair manual.

My first guess would be a short inside the alternator, so if you have replaced it, look for a shorted wire in the harness.Disconnect the wires from the alternator and everything connected to the battery, then connect one at a time until the fuse blows.Could be a problem with the starter solenoid too.

Check the brake light switch above the brake pedal with a volt meter, when the pedal is pushed you should have 12 volts in and out.