1985 Honda Prelude - Page 6 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

may be air in system bleed it or could be master cylnder try thos options before tareing deep into somethin .

What else is it doing or not doing? This will help me tremendously as this could be an issue with a plugged fuel filter, misfire or mass air flow sensor issue.

I fina a picture for you,

hope help.

That is an accord if I am not mistaken. All you have to do is replace the VSS(vehicle speed sensor). If you look down it is mounted on the transmission close to the bell housing underneath the air intake duct just below the thermostat housing. That is an accord sickness. I have fixed so many accord with same problem. On civic it is about in the same area where it is located. It is repairable, but it is not worth your time. I even invented a tester for a honda vehicle sensor so I could bring it to a junkyard and test it so I wont have to keep coming back and fort.

Have a look at the brake pedal and find the switch for the brake. It sounds like something simple like the brake switch is jammed on. Once you identify the switch see if you can't find where the plug is. Remove the plug and test the switch, press the brake peddle up and down whilst you are doing this to assertain if the switch is activating on and off properly or staying switched on it.

this link takes you to the timing belt procedure. hope this helps.
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=55332

You may have to have the error code cleared from cars computer with a scanner.

check the tranny its a code for tranny might have problem on it

to get the pads in they have to be compressed and turned at the same time and their is a special tool for this job ,or use a G clamp and put a slight pressure on it then turn piston clockwise ,assistant is better for this job one keeps pressure on and the other turns the piston

it could be the emerganice brake pushed a little or it could be that you need to get new brakes shows

Assuming this is a manual shift transmission then 5th has probaly melted due to no lube.5 th gear is smaller on the countershaft and does not dip into the sump as far.So it is the first to loose oil when trans is low.If this is a 5 speed auto like on the 04 up accords and odessy vans then clutches are most likely damaged.Either way you are gonna need transmission repair.Good luck!

Code 9 is a loss of signal from No.1 cylinder position sensor
which is referred to as the CYP sensor. The wire colors for this sensor are Orange and White, they go to ECM (computer) terminals B11 and B12. Below is a page showing the diagnostics for all the sensors, first make sure you have a good circuit to the CYP all the way to the ECM, if you do then the ECM is likely defective, this part runs around $300.00 in the aftermarket, so do your testing.
The repair manual page below may be hard to see, do this, copy the page to your picture file on your PC, then use the picture viewer to enlarge it. You can also use any photo program you have to enlarge it.

it is 20 years old, the brakes should have been changed at least 4 times by now. if you hear the metal wear tang hitting the rotor, or a dragging or scraping sound when you hit the brakes, it is time again.if you can feel the brakes through the brake pedal, it is time again.

There is a sending unit in the gas tank that measures fuel level, it mostly likely needs to be replaced.

From what you have described either the replacement alternator or regulator are faulty.all 1985 model here have the reg built into the alternator.Put a voltmeter across the battery terminals while running.volts should be 14 to 14.8 if it is being charged correctly,12.8-13.9 if it is poorly charging and less if it is only running on the battery.I assume that the fanbelt is tight and not slipping.There are several other reasons that can cause this fault but establish the basics first.Make sure that the main feed wire from the alternator to the battery is fitted onto clean terminal and isnt broken internally.To test this you can carefully check volts at the alternator terminal end,be careful not to arc out on anything metal while doing this.you may blow the charging fuse(check this anyway as part of test).the volts should be the same as reading from the battery.If it is lower,twist the wire about while reading and see if it changes.It will either need replacing if faulty or try new terminal ends first.Make sure that the replacement alt has the same plug configuration as the one you removed.Honda have a few different plugs that switch the trigger wire around(whether round or rectangular)Hope this helps you.if not get back with your test results and we can work together on this