1999 Volvo S70 - Page 7 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

put a battery charger on the battery,turn key to on postion[engine not running] turn radio to on and let it sit there like that for about 5 hours or untill radio say code then enter right code. if battery goes dead during this you have to dtart over

Car must be ON for 2 hrs then radio will reset

p0112==iat sensor 1 low curcuit output, p0--p0108 map curcuit high input, p0455 is- evap emission control system( large leak).

You have to take the dashboard completely off. I just had air conditioner work done and they had to take the dashboard off so I had them change EVERY light in the car. I have a 2000 S70.

Have the throttle positioning sensor checked for that sounds like the problem you are having with yours

Why everybody trying to replace fuel pump when the engine won't run normally?(I just looked through few posts , same thing)
There are tonns of other things that may cause this problem.
Spark , fuel pressure regurator , vacuum leak , air mass meter , electronic throttle actuator (throttle body) , etc. ....
Before you waste your money by replacing components(very expensive way) , take it to mechanic shop and let them do a diagnostics. And if they find the problem and 100% sure about it , then you can take the car , pay for diagnostic and do it yourself , if you feel like it.
Diagnostics charges usually an hour , so depends on a labour rate of mechanic shop it will be from $80 to $120 in my area(California).
I'm very sure it will save you money.

Locate the power steering unit on the Engine and you will see a reservoir attached to it. Add fluid there.

This is almost always because a rod and clip have come apart.The rods that go from the handles to the mechanism are just under ¼" thick, and hve the last maybe 3/8" bent over at a 90º angle. That bent over part then goes through a hole in the mechanism for the rod to do its job. There is a plastic clip in the hole, which the rod end is pushed into. Then a little part off to the side of the plastic clip is clipped over the rod to hold the rod end in the hole.

When those clips get hard with age, they fracture, let go of the rod, and then the rod falls out of the hole in the mechanism.

The rods from the outside handle to the mechanism are pretty short, and are hard to see. They are rather hidden by the mechanism itself.

Make sure the window is up so the glass doesn’t get in the way. You might need a dental mirror to see what’s going on. (They sell that type of thing, but bigger than what the dentist puts in your mouth, at auto parts stores.) You might be able to get a good look with a hand-held mirror.

If you need a flashlight, put the flashlight by your ear, and point it at the mirror to bounce the light off the mirror to what it is that you are trying to see. Once you have seen what you need to do, you will probably need to do the actual repair by sense of touch.

Don't do this on grass. If you are trying to install the clip and you drop it, it can hide really well in grass.

There have been a lot of problems with the compressor cutting out when it gets hot. When the A/C begins to blow warm, check the power supply wire to the compressor. If there is power in the wire, you will most likely have to replace the compressor. If there is no power, you will have to trace it back to see what the problem is (a wiring diagram will help greatly).

1-2-4-5-3

Ask here for free advice + code (if available)

www.ukbookshelf.co.uk

dealer

reset code should be in your radio manual, if you have it, removing radio is a lot more work.

FIRST OF ALL YOU NEED A HAYNES OR CHILTON REPAIR MANUAL.IT WILL TELL YOU HOW TO GET TO HEATER CORE.AND YOU NEED TOOL NO.155 8957 DISCONNECT THE HEATER HOSES FROM HEATER CORE.AND YOU NEED A TORX 20 SCREW DRIVER TO REMOVE SOUND PROOFING PANEL TO DASHBOARD SCREWS.

You don't have a bundle of issues.
The check light tells you that a malfunction occurred.
Now you have to put a scanner on the connector under the dash and check for stored codes.
The ABS light,most likely,will show you have a bad Wheel Speed Sensor.

Get used to these type of issues.
You will have a couple a year on all vehicles,going forward

ets light is fro throttle unit fault you have dirty throttle plates or bad throttle unit /

this problem is caused by a defective brake master cylinder, the seals are leaking that pressurize the fluid in the chambers of the cylinder, at 166.000 miles you have had a good run with part, they fail around 100,000-125,000 miles no matter the model.

Great question.

You don't remove the shifter, you have to remove the panel around it first.
You start by removing the coin holder then the stuff holder, they just pop off. If you have heated seats then you pop the buttons from bellow and unplug them. Pull the panel up carefully. Sometimes spilled soda that got into the shifter cover make it stick like glue. I use plastic wedges to not damage anything, You can pull it up half way or just take it all of. The e-brake handle cover pops off too and just pop it off at the center console.
While your there make sure to wipe it all clean and retrieve all the coins that fell in. lol

You need your car in the air so the jack.
Remove the tires so a 19mm or 3/4 socket to remove the wheels.
Its a 7mm allen head for the caliper bolts
then a screwdriver to separate the pads so you can remove them.
Then you need to push the caliper piston in. They make tools for that but you can use a big C clamp or even some big channel locks.

That's all you need. Don't forget the lube.

If the radio is original to the car then they dealer can look up your VIN in the computer and print you out a sheet with your warranty information and it has the code on it. The service writers can do it from the service drive.

If you just have the radio, then the parts department can look up the code.