Top 10 1998 Volvo S70 Questions & Answers

from he Popular Mechanics site if the smell in your car is like maple syrup:


(1) SMELLS LIKE: MAPLE SYRUP
WHEN: After the engine has warmed or possibly even after it's shut off for a few minutes.
THE CULPRIT: Coolant containing sweet-smelling (but toxic) ethylene glycol is leaking from somewhere. It could be coming from a radiator or heater hose, a failed intake manifold gasket or cylinder head. It might be coming from a leaky radiator cap or the radiator itself, especially if you smell it outside the car. A strong odor inside the passenger compartment probably means a bad heater core.

what is the radio code for 1998 vovlo s70

The unlock code is in tha manual who follows whit the car.
Here is a manual how to use the radio
http://www.volvo.com/NR/rdonlyres/BC1CC211-4B7E-46C5-BD35-C62F50DFD70E/0/Radio.pdf

If you cant find the code among the manuals and service books, contact a volvo dealer to get a new one, if the volvo dealer cant help you contact Volvo global.

u can do it here
http://www.volvo.com/group/global/en-gb/Applications/ContactUs20/contactus20.htm

Follow the instructions an that site and give them all the info/numbers the want on your car

Good luck to you

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c1528008c73c

Have tried getting quality gasoline at a reliable station? It sounds like water in your fuel system. Add a couple bottles of Iso-Heet fuel system dryer everytime you fill up the next few times, and that should cure it.

I had the same problem on my '98 V70 - my rear liftgate would not open. The "rear lift door open light" was on. I guess it was some kind of electronic problem in the locking mechanism. But it could have been something else like the metal bar that extends from the outside handle down to the mechanism had slipped off (unusual design seems like it should be connected instead of just sitting on a plastic latch handle) or maybe it was bent because this car had been hit in the rear as I found out looking around in there. Anyway, I took off the interior panel and inside handle. There was a large torx bolt that had to be removed if I was going to replace the mechanism. I later found out that there were two more once I got the gate open. I took a photo of the way everything was connected so I would have a record just in case I needed it. I bought a new lock mechanism. There is a thin piece of plastic down near the bottom on the mechanism that somewhat blocks a screwdriver or other tool from reaching in and opening the door that way. So I had to start removing things. I disconnected the power first. I removed the two screws I could reach which let the part that was connected to the connector be removed out of the way. I removed the metal bars that went from the outside door handle and the lock down to the mechanism. I still couldn't reach where I needed to. So since I had the part I began to slowly break away pieces from the mechanism. They are plastic so they broke off without much trouble but it did take a little work. Finally I reached down to the thin plastic part I referred to earlier that covers the part that unlocks your liftgate and pulled it enough off of it to get access to the release. One last try with a screwdriver let me push the actual release and the door opened! There was much rejoicing. Then I removed the old and replaced with the new. Reconnected everything checked and rechecked. It's working so far. That's how I did it.

VOLVO OBDII DTC
P1101 Power Stage Group A
P1307 Accelerometer signal
P1308 Accelerometer signal
P1326 Fault in engine control module (ECM) knock control circuit
P1327 Fault in engine control module (ECM) knock control circuit
P1328 Fault in engine control module (ECM) knock control circuit
P1329 Fault in engine control module (ECM) knock control circuit
P1401 Fault in engine control module (ECM) engine coolant temperature (ECT)
P1403 Fault in engine control module (ECM) control module box temperature sensor
P1404 Fault in engine control module (ECM) control module box temperature sensor
P1405 Temperature warning greater than 230 degrees F
P1406 Temperature warning greater than 212 degrees F
P1505 Idle air control (IAC) valve opening signal
P1506 Idle air control (IAC) valve opening signal
P1507 Idle air control (IAC) valve closing signal
P1508 Idle air control (IAC) valve closing signal
P1604 Ignition discharge module (1DM) group 0
P1605 Ignition discharge module (1DM) group E
P1617 Cable fault between AW 50-42 TCM and Motronic 4.4 ECM (lamp lights)
P1618 Cable fault between AW 50-Q2 TCM and Motronic 4.4 ECM (lamp lights)
P1619 Engine cooling fan (FC) low-speed signal
P1620 Engine cooling fan (FC) low-speed signal
P1621 Diagnostic trouble code (DIG) in automatic transmission control module (TCM) sorry but your codes do not appear on the volvo list ,so iam assuming that it was read in autozone or similar and the codes you were given dont appear to match anything from volvo .If you can describe the fault and symptoms then perhaps i can think of something ,from what i can try to work out by reading the ford codes ?? because ford owned volvo still do i think but not sure then the chances are its ford codes you should be reading and evan then their is no 0 number in front of the code number so iam assuming that the 1 number in front is ?? well not sure but from the ford code i would assume you have a problem with the prg valve ,its stuck open from the look of it .if so block it off with something like a piece of wooden dowl or a strip of coke can across the hole in the middle and try it ,also leave the vacumn feed operating pipe off

this is what you are looking for and it will be located on the intake...

check your charging system, when batterry goes down its automatically shut off your a/c system, alternator and circuit must check

I am working on this RIGHT NOW. Remove panel (see Utube) remove white cover (Torx 25) from interior of exterior handle. You will see that lifting the handle pushes a rod down The rod is attached to the bottom half of the mechanism via a cheapo plastic connection, that can work loose. It is like a screw shaft (top) that squeezes (sideways) into a blue plastic channel which merely pinches the "screw shaft" to hold it. The connection has come loose. Squeeze upper shaft into (lower) blue channel. Added tiny bit of epoxy to bond "screw shaft" onto blue plastic gripper. Done. Saved $500.