20 Most Recent 1996 Volvo 850 - Page 4 Questions & Answers

http://www.volvoforumsrepairs.org.uk/800Repairs/inmanpcv.htm look at all your hoses i changed all mine for 4mm silicon hose and found some split /blocked that fixed the back pressure problem dont drill your cap that aint going to fix it it just lets oil run every where .

Call a Volvo dealer and give them your vin number they might be able to check from their data base

alot of problems stem from a worn out ignition tumbler, if you turn your key on is there play to wiggle it forward and back a little? its the culprit for so many issues believe it or not, Ive had my 850 turbo wagon for 15 years and know her like a book. mine does this and after i restart it its fine. my odometer stopped working and Its an easy but timely fix so i just left it as the service light comes on for service at the right mileage. anyway, if tumbler is good then your cable is going bad.

1: drive car. 2: connect charger plus to plus and charge it. 3: connect jumper cables to donor car battery , start donor and it charges yours. 4: take it it out, and take it to any shop and say charge it. google this and get 1trillion hits. or utube it. same. or read this book http://www.amazon.com/Auto-Repair-Dummies-Deanna-Sclar/dp/076459902X

back up on post, see answers. do post the photo of your chassis number plate. xxxx out the end 3 number of the serial. (if worried)

wow, shocker, the 1st person EVA, to post a country, you are a brave man. love you. please post the photo of it, we can decode it , may be. the codes are at the dealer parts counter. and in the FSM. factory service manual 1st chapter. the codes are needed to buy parts and not get the wrong parts. chassis plate codes. (these do vary by country) Each country regulates the data in the plate. some countries, dont, and you get what ever. for some other country there are 55 markets, in some cars. good luck to you.!

Hi Look for a leak in the cooling system. If your radiator or cylinder head seem to be compromised, or if you open the coolant reservoir and the levels are topped up, you may have a leak in the cooling system. If you're experienced with cars, check the radiator, core plugs in the engine block, or cylinder head near the head gasket for any signs of leakage.

• If you don't know your way around cars, consider bringing your car to the nearest mechanic and ask them to pressure-test the cooling system. Pressure-testing the cooling system is relatively easy to do; you may even get it free of charge.

Assuming it's still the factory set up. Remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the cables on and remove the battery cables (negative/black cable first). at the base of the battery tray there is a hold down retainer. the retainer is like a half moon piece with a tab that hangs over the base of the battery to lock it in place. looking at the car it will be on the front left side edge of the battery. Lift the retainer out using a rotating motion towards the battery while pulling up on it. BE CAREFUL!!! it can take some force to remove and when it does your hand will hit the nearest bracket there. to reinstall sit the battery into the back edge of the tray like sliding in a baking tray into a low oven. this will allow the battery housing to fit under the back lip of the battery tray. Slide the battery all the way towards the outside of the fender (towards your right) and reattach the hold down by rotating downwards while pushing down. reattach the battery cables and you're done. now hopefully you have the radio code... if not go by the dealer and they can get it for you (if you still have the factory radio). As a side note, if the cables are badly corroded they can be cleaned with normal hot (almost boiling) water and a light brush. we use the hot water out of the coffee maker. when clean apply some battery protector (from any parts store) to keep the cables from oxidizing.

mine does that too, just click the ignition real fast to start position then off and it stops

whining as what?

the fuel regulator is usually the culprit

cut the wire that leads to the horn blowers at the front grill area

change your fuel pump

just call the dealer ship in your area and give them the serial # located on the radio and they will be happy to give you the code at no charge

you can call the volvo dealership in your area and they will be happy to give you the code for the radio all you need is the serial # on the radio itself I had to replace three myself

The problem is the PAIR valve. the PAIR is vacuum controlled and sits on a tube that connects to the main exhaust pipe. The valve gets coated with deposits over time and doesn't seal off like it should. This air leak causes any water that condenses in the lines or piping to go to the lowest point in the system. In the case of the 850's the pump when activated pulls in the water like a straw. The valve is located at the back of the engine below the upper engine torque mount (the black brace that sticks up on the side of the engine. If you plan on replacing the valve yourself do yourself a favor and use a short ratcheting 10mm wrench, the slimmer the better. It's a pain, but it's the only way. You will need to replace the valve and pump again unfortunately.

try puffing some graphite powder in the key slot to lubricate the lock pins as they may be seized up or binding up in their holes.

is it water or heater sludge

That sounds like your idle air valve. On 1994 to 1997 850 models, it does hum as it is pulsed on. If it is broken and stuck shut, it may still hum. FCP Euro Genuine Replacement