After I bought my '96 850, I found it had the same problem. In my case the speedometer worked fine, but not the odometer. A little research on the internet revealed that it's a common problem with these models.
There's a motor that drives the odometer separately from the speedometer, and the weak link in the chain is a tiny gear that turns the odometer when the motor runs. That gear is easily broken and even one missing tooth will disable your odometer.
The fix is relatively straight-forward, but requires you to remove the instrument panel and disassemble it in order to get to the motor housing and the broken gear. You won't have any trouble finding replacement parts on eBay that are much better made and will last you the rest of the life of the car. The difficulty level on this is about medium, but be careful when you've got the instrument panel disassembled; I wasn't cautious enough and ended up with a couple of my indicators out of alignment; my tachometer read zero when it was idling, and my fuel gauge only went up to 17 gallons when it was full, so I had to take it all apart again to reposition the gauges to get them to read correctly.
Check that your rear interior lights shut off. Other than that disconnect the + Battery cable and put a voltage meter between the two. Pull all of your Fuses and replace one at a time checking to see if the voltage changes, this will show you where your problem is.
The Struts are inside the Strut Tube that bolts to the top of the inner fender well and runs down to the lower A-Arm that holds the front suspension. You can tell by the big spring wrapped around it.
Well, you changed everything, Now you have to go after the fuses,relays, ignition switch and wiring. Wiring I would rule out, because it works when cold. So I would check all the fuses, pull them out, most likely good because everything works when cold. Pulling them gets rid of the corrosion problem. Then pull the relays, swap them, where you can. This will narrow down a bad relay. Some thing won't work after it gets warm/hot. besides a no start. After all that, I would go after the ignition switch. they do go bad and do a lot worse than your problem.
Since I don't know if you have replaced that shock or have replaced both, I will cover as many instances as I can here. Let me know of any other details including work that's already been done (and the parts that got used).
1) If you have replaced the damaged shock assembly, ensure that its mount inside the trunk under the carpet where the wheel well is located is properly installed. There are two bolts that secure it in place.
2) If that appears OK then it's possible that during the failure of the shock the mounting to the body could be distorted. Have that checked at a properly-equipped shop.
3) If you are sure that the body itself is intact, ensure the shock receiver cup hasn't buckled. This is simply a bracket with a rubber bushing where the shock rests near the stub axle.
4) Compare the length of both shocks with the vehicle on a lift with at least the two rear wheels at full droop. Then do the same with the vehicle parked on level ground. Ensure that the values you find for each test do not exceed +-1-3 mm.
5) If you find a difference, it's possible that the other shock is failing as well. Shocks are usually replaced in pairs, optionally with their springs. During your failure, the spring on the failed shock could have compressed to the point of fatigue failure. It cannot be adjusted; it must be replaced. Do not attempt to compensate by shaving the other spring; this will leave the spring with fatigue cracks where it was trimmed and will fail quickly, possibly resulting in severe damage to the body.
6) Once all this has been done, have the vehicle geometry checked out by a properly-equipped shop. The easiest way is to have a four-wheel alignment done and see if the rear wheels show any difference; if the difference cannot be adjusted out then there is either frame damage or body damage present. In either instance, the repair is minimal.
With all the things you've listed that could be wrong, always start with the most obvious and least expensive....fuel filter would be my first shot..a clogged, or partially clogged fuel filter would allow enugh fuel to pass through it until the demand was to great...in effect..you'd be emptying the filter of all available fuel..then whenhte car sits..fuel would accumulate again.
Good guesses on the other parts though...you should grab a wrench and go at it...sound slike you know what yu're doing.
are you getting power to the fan? could be a weak fan motor. I would start by checking Fuse then relay the check the temp sensor the fan don't use the same sensor as the temp gauge.
you have to watch utube video, or step by step it with a forum I've done mine and you have to be pretty mechanical, its no walk in the park and I'm way mechanical.
Try to get one of these for your car Goes Over all SystemsFor the American manufacturing company, see Haynes Automobile Company.The Haynes Owner\'s Workshop Manuals (commonly known as simply Haynes Manuals) are a series of practical manuals from the Haynes Publishing Group (LSE: HYNS) aimed at both DIY enthusiasts and professional garage mechanics. The series primarily focuses upon the maintenance and repair of automotive vehicles, covering a wide range of makes and models (300 models of car and 130 models of motorcycle), but it also includes manuals in the same style for domestic appliances and personal computers, digital photography and model railways, men[1] and babies,[2]Sex">sex,[3] and women.[4] The last four were made slightly tongue in cheek, but have proved very popular.Additionally they have released manuals based on popular fictional series including Star Trek[5] and Thomas and Friends.[6]