20 Most Recent 1995 Volvo 850 - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Possible that the heater voltage is down or the glow plugs are bad. Also If the battery voltage is LOW then when there is drain on the glow plug the starter current will be low.
So check the terminals of the battery , check the starter motor. It is possible that a faulty starter motor will turn with more load than normally. This can be due to wearing of the bushes, brushes or pinion.
Also check the gravity on the battery. If low test with a jumper from another to confirm.
Finally check the fuel pressure, the injectors and pump timings. Get this calibrated.

The reason is that , the fuel line is out of fuel, so the running for 3 seconds is just the use of the trapped fuel in the injector line, after which it will stop. The solution is to on the ignition by turning the key without starting the ignition. this allows the fuel pump to release enough fuel into the fuel line and the injection system. Allow this for 5- 7 seconds, then start the car. It will run without interruption.

I would check the vacumm lines and intake manifold. any vacuum leak will set a maf code. I done alot of maf codes and not replaced one yet. not saying they don't go bad, they do. also you can remove the maf and clean it, use brake clean, and also clean the throttle body, aspecially behind the plate, use a brush if you have to. this does work alot of times and makes some cars run as if it had a major tune up. Let me know

the plastic connection on the inside of the door lever has broke off with old age ,take door panel off and have a good look then come back if you cannot sus it

Are you try sprayed in the ignition? Re-check your wiring diagram using this diagrams: volvo-firing-96.

Test fuel pressure and fuel pump.

Keep us updated.

Sorry to say that the sensor is probably dead. The hole and the light were probably not connected with each other

It would help to have some symptoms or details. But in general ABS really sucks. I would disconnect it and go with driver control.

Do you have the scanner error codes, so we can tell what sensor and where it is we need the fault codes?

In some bad charge conditions, also this lights turn on, check your alternator and dont forgetted scanned the ABS module.

Keep us updated.

use grease or something to hold seal down for one, then just puch down hardand turn

DO NOT DRIVE THIS CAR! Your brake pads/shoes are worn beyond reason. There is a good probability the disks/drums are damaged as well. STOPPING is way more important than GOING. Get this car repaired before you cause property damage, injure yourself or others. The TAP sound you report is probably your car warning you of this condition, as if not being able to stop was not enough.

Have your repair shop come get the car with a tow truck ... do not attempt to drive it to the shop.

This is a very dangerous condition.

Thanks for your question @ FixYa.com

Not familar with your car but it may be you
need a fuel line release tool.

If you have plastic around the end of the hoses
they will have to be pushed in with the correct to
to release them

FIrst know this - I used to have this car also and if you do not know that this car is an interference engine and what this means plus have not changed the timing belt every 50 to 60 thousand miles that if the timing belt has not been changed with in this miles that the belt will break and when this happens that the piston heads keep moving up into the valves and come into contact with some of valves and destroys and bends some of them and needs to be replaced. You should change the Distributor cap, Rotor, Spark Plug wires but you need to open up the Distributor to see if the connections are badly warned off like black on the connectors inside the Distributor.

The ring is actually the nut that holds the pump in place. With a soft drift or punch. gently knock the ring in an anti clockwise direction to unscrew it. When it is off, the whole pump will lift out.

there is a special tool for that , however i have seen peolpe turn it with a hammer and a screw driver, it is a big plastic nut

Sounds like you have a dangerous situation here. One way for a battery to squirt out acid is if the vehicles alternator is overcharging . Should be charging below 14.5 volts. You can use a multi meter to check this yourself . Just start the engine and connect the meter to the two terminals on the battery. There are some local garages that may offer to do this check for you as a courtesy. The other way for this to happen is, if there is a crack in the battery . Look around the battery to see if it is installed properly with restraints and nothing jabbing into it. You may see crack around the positive and negative posts caused sometimes by over tightening of the clamp bolts. In either case this in nothing to fool around with. I recommend (with your hands in protective gloves) removing the battery. Clean the engine compartment . And installing a new battery making sure the factory restraints are used. Battery acid is dangerous and poisonous( Do not take this lightly ). You will need to neutralize any acid that has sprayed onto you engine components or the acid will ruin them permanently. I am sure you are capable enough to do this but It is always best to let a professional do dangerous things like this to insure the proper precautions are taken.

the master cylinder hose goes directly to intke manifold i believe,post back if you have any more questions