20 Most Recent 1993 Volvo 240 - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Rock your steering wheel back and forth rapidly while turning the key. This will help the columb lock engage or disingage so you can turn the key all the way to the start position

This car doesn't use a choke.

I presume that you mean that they warp. There is nothing about rotors that could cause them to go out of balance, and even if they did, you would not notice it because the diameter and resulting inertia of a rotor is relatively small on the wheel assembly.
This car has four piston front calipers. When you work on the brakes, are any of the pistons more difficult to press back than the others? A sticking piston will press on the hot rotor after you park the car. The pressure and uneven cooling can warp it. Most folks these days buy rebuilt calipers rather than rebuilding their own. Mass production rebuilders can rebuild calipers more efficiently and better then you can, but if you buy rebuilt calipers, visually check them to make sure that the rebuilder did not mis-match the two halves of the caliper (i.e. bolt two outside halves together) as this is possible to do and has been known to happen. If this is done, only one half of the caliper will work.
If the front pads are not wearing evenly, it can be caused by a sticking piston, but also remember that both brake fluid circuits feed each of the front calipers. If one circuit is not working well due to a failing master cylinder or a loose rear wheel bearing, it is hard on the front rotors and may contribute to warping. Loose rear wheel bearings have the same effect on brakes that loose front wheel bearings have, if the rotor has excessive lateral movement due to the loose bearing, it forces the pistons far back into the caliper, so the master cylinder has to move a lot of fluid on that circuit before the brakes start to engage.
Finally, rotors that are poorly made from non-homogeneous metal will tend to warp as they heat and cool. For the bargain conscious, I have had good luck with Mexican-made Brembos. They rust like crazy, but they are reasonably priced and I have used them for years on several of my cars and have never had one warp yet.

The most common problem that these cars have is the wire to the solenoid. The insulation will come off of the wire and it will touch the rear of the transmission. It is a bit of a pain to get to the wire to repair it if you don't have a lift.

More likely a compensator board in the back of the temperature gauge.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mcarthur/5069153957/
You can find repair instructions on Brickboard RWD forum

This sounds like an information sign that lets you know your brake fluid level is low in master resesivoir. At a point were you push the brake pedal and drops the level ane sensor comes on. Sudden stop and go and on turn driving cane do this if level ids low.

No. They should be left installed because the act as a one way check valve to stop grease being slung back out when the shaft rotates.

take the battery to a garage an ask them to do a load test on your battery, you can have 12 volts but the battery cant deliver the amps you need.

i have owned several 240's (i drive a 1990 245 at the moment) and have had this problem in the past. it is not a bolt that you have to replace, it is the shifter-link bushings and the c-clip on the bottom of the shifter-link. if you jack your car up and place the jack stands at the front jack points so you can scout underneath the car. at the front end of the transmission (where the O.D. selanoid wire comes out of the body) is the shifterlink and in the shifter-link should be 3 holes (there should be 3 bushings in there and a c-clip keeping it all together), replace the c-clip and bushings and i promise that your shifter will be VERY TIGHT. good luck :)

Most car dealers recommend maintenance services at 30K, 60K, 90K and so on. The 30K service is mainly focused in inspection of the systems and replace of the fuel filter.
The 60K is expensive for cars with timing belt. The coolant, transmission oil and filter, and the brake fluid has to be changed. The air filter and spark plugs has to be replaced at this time too.
Most costly is the replacement of the timing belt. Volvo recommends for Volvo 240, changing the timing belt every 50,000 miles. Needless to say, they are pretty religious about this now.
The B20, B21, B23, and B230 engines are non-interference engines, meaning that the camshaft can be rotated independently of the crankshaft and no damage will result to the engine. That is, if the timing belt breaks, the valves will not hit the pistons; the engine will simply stop.
On the other hand, the B234 16-valve engines and any of the other Volvo multi valve engines are interference engines. Loss of the timing belt in these engines will result in severe or fatal engine damage.

There is a fault with the automatic transmission and hence the lever gets struck with the park because when the car is started the idling governors are holding on the gear notch not allowingit to be shifted.
So if your can continue to park in neutral witth emegency brakes as in the case of manual transmission it is alright.
However whether to replace the odometer depends on your preliminary examination of the unit. Remove and check out if there is any visible damage beffore deciding to replace.However you will need help from Volvo service for the part and so while they remove it can be checked for minor repair before replacing.

somewhere there is a wire that has a break in it and grounding out i would trace your brake lights wiring to see more then likely thats where it is

it probably needs a new door latch assembly.

sometimes you can call a volvo dealership with the vin and they can get the code for you. I had to give my vin # and pull my radio out enought to get the #'s offf the top of my radio and give both the vin and the radio #'s to get the code. when you get it, use the digits on the radio to punch the four digits and then push auto. the radio should come on.

The radio features antitheft circuitry. If the set is removed from the vehicle or if the battery power is disconnected, a special code must be entered to enable operation of the set.Enter the 4-digit code using the preset buttons. If the correct code is entered, "codE" is no longer displayed and the set is ready to use.If an incorrect code has been entered "EEEE" is displayed for 1 second and then "codE". Enter the correct code. After three unsuccessful coding attempts the set locks for 2 hours . The unit must be connected and turned on during this time.
Enter the code again once this time has elapsed.If you dont have right code then it will not work.The password/code can only be retrieved from service center or from the dealer of the unit. Because at the back of the unit there is a serial number mentioned and the password/code only can be retrieved from the serial number. Each and every device/unit has its own serial number so one serial number code/password will not work with other serial number code password. The service center or the dealer has the list of code for the serial number so as soon as you provide the serial number he will get the password/code
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disconnect battery for 5 minutes, re-connect. if the light stays on, get a code reader and retrieve code to find what the problem is and solve it

the first thing is to check all the fuses. theen make sure power is going through the brake switch when its pushed, use a test light with key on there should be a wire with power at all at switch connector and the other wire should have power with pedal pushed if thats okay then check the bulbs, if theres no power to other wire with the pedal pushed then you have abad switch.start with these tests first.