20 Most Recent 1992 Volvo 940 - Page 6 Questions & Answers

check coolant level and valve to heater coil

check your crankcase position sensor i dont know the exact location but can check into it

The problem is Volvo brakes, period. Prone to failure and of poor design, with the ABS compounding the problem! Yes, it's a common problem. In the 240/740 pre-cursors to the 940, there were two types of calipers---one good one bad. Check with an independent to see if you can get some different calipers for the front of your 940.

could be a fuse they are located behind the ash tray. could be the fan motor you can test this by finding the connection for the fan motor and connecting a positive and negative wire to the positive and negative on the connector. it could also be a relay or loose or bad connector . start at the fuses check all of them. then check to see if your fan works then check all your connections if that is not it try to see if any of your relays look burned. im not sure whicjh one controls the fan controls. good luck if you need more help or specifics i will look into it more i have a friend with one of these vehicles that i can look at.

Hello,

I did not specify which hoses because there are a number of hoses both over and under the fuel injection unit. (Left side of engine as viewed from the drivers seat) Some are water hoses so be careful! Best thing to do if you cannot identify the culprit by exception is to get a shop manual and replace all that look suspicious. Please be aware that not all the hoses are universal ie. can be cut to length from similar diameter hose. Some hoses are "molded" meaning they're formed to a particular shape, usually because a straight hose will bend or collapse in the particular location. You will need to get molded hose either from Volvo or a well stocked import car parts store.

Good Luck!

Dr of Motors

Hello,

To troubleshoot the system is difficult without reading the failure "codes" Both systems are very complex and include some non-serviceable "black boxes" . Unless you're an experienced technician, this is probably a dealer or independent Volvo specialist job to read and recommend the needed repairs.

The great temptation is to leave the lights on and continue driving but this could be dangerous. According to my Volvo dealer, the SRS (Suplimental Restraint System or airbags) fault could result in the bags going off at random. The ABS (antilock braking system) light could be anything from the antilock electronics being bad to having a failed master cylinder.

Neither of these systems are easily "shadetree mechanic" serviceable and a wiring diagram by itself probably won't get you too far. Best to have a Volvo technician at least diagnose the problem. You can then fix, patch or ignore from there.

Another advisory just in case: Complex systems like these may have multiple problems. When the tech. reads the fault code, it's the first one in sequence. You may fix the first problem, only to have another pop up, just like peeling the layers of an onion. A good, experienced technician should have an idea of these possible secondary faults, so ask him/her!

Note: I'm not a Volvo employee and base this advice on my experience with these systems on a Volvo similar to yours. I do recommend a Volvo or Independent Volvo technician because the cars are complex. Someone who works on Volvo's everyday is more likely to know their idiosyncracies than, with all due respect, a mechanic at your local PEP Boys who must work on everything. Going with a specialist may be higher initially but you'll save in the long run by avoiding expensive guesswork, not to mention time and frustration.

Good luck,

Dr of Motors

to find out if it is off its track you can remove the cover between the rearview and the sunroof that is the motor/drive assembly. there is a slotted pin in this assemply that you turn with a screwdriver to move the sunroof manually if it wont move manually then you have a bigger issue. sometimes thie drive assembly screws get loose, i believe there are two screws that hold it up,when those are loose you will get a grinding sound when the gears skip. good luck.

Hello,

The shifter problem is likely related to worn nylon bushings on the shifter or a broken shifter quadrant (the PRNDL). You will need to disassemble the center console in order to pin down the problem. Procedure is found in the shop manual.

The shifter problem and the gear shift hesitation are likely NOT related. Usually, a delay in shifting is due to being low on automatic transmission fluid. Check your fluid with the engine running, and warm, car in PARK (be sure the parking brake is on for safety's sake.)

The transmission fluid dip stick has a red pull top and is at the rear of the engine. With a clean rag or paper towel, clean any fluid or dirt from the bottom of the stick and reinsert it into the tube. Pull the dip stick out the second time and note the fluid level. If it's between the top and bottom marks, it's OK UNLESS:

1) There is no fluid indicated: Add sufficient Dexron III or Dextron IV to bring the fluid to the correct level. (Remember that the dfistance betweeen the marks is in PINTS, not quarts like the oil.) Do not overfill the transmission.

2) Fluid should be ruby red in color and have a neutral "oily" smell. If the fluid has a slight yellowish color or smells "burned", you may have internal damage in the transmission. Best thing to do in this case is to have the transmission fluid and filter changed and proceed from there on your trouble shooting.

Best of luck,

Dr of Motors

The code seems to point to the camshft actuator circuit. Namely the Oil Control Valve. Probably needs replacement. I do not know the location on your vehicle. I suggest you ask a mechanic or try to find it online.

Call your dealer and give them your VIN number. They will provide you with a six digit code which you will enter into your radio.

I would make sure it is leaking externally. That amount you should be able to tell if it is leaking or not. If it is not it is most likely a blown head gasket and you are loosing the fluid internally. 

You will either need to go to the dealer and pay him for one, or, like I have done with a VW, find a good website with a forum that you can ask. Often, mechanics will be on the forum, and if you give them the detail info needed, they will get a code number for you.

You will need a timing light to adjust the fly wheel! do you have one?

two things to check,,, there is a crank sensor at the back of the engineby the bulkhead,,at the top of the engine where the gearbox joins ,,,the sensors are known to be faulty if sometimes ,,, check the cable to the sensor,,if it is damaged replace the sensor,,,the other common problem is the fuel pump relay,,, behind the fusebox in the dash

its the relay in your fuse box,you must of seen it when you replaced the fuses,its round the size of a quarter and about 1 inch thick,it cost cheap money just unplug from fuse box and plug new one in,if this helps please vote me a fix ya

2 way vacuum servo under dash, very difficult to replace, suggest dealer install, about $300, lots of labor, part $50.

If you have spark from the coil your problem has to be ignition cap or rotor. The plug wires will not fail all at once. If there is adequate spark going in to the cap and nothing coming out look there first. What does I replaced everything mean?

Hi there's this website something like reliable-store and it is very amazing for manual for repairing servicing anything someone on fixya recommended it to me and I thank him even today They have full manuals and it's verrrrry cheap and mine I got free in offers 3rd time I bought it, I also had an issue with the file so the girl replaced it in 30 mins there is one website more but i don't remember its name it was 2 years back bitman something link this Try these out brother

Get solution for this online at www.reliable-store.com and get complete guide on whether to repair or not, service it, and how to repair etc

If you can pull the knob off the heat and look inside to see if the knob is broken out. if not you may have a broken switch.