20 Most Recent 1985 Volvo 740 Questions & Answers

If your 740 needs timing belt change you have no choice but do it.

owners manual should show you how to Unlock this . usually a button recessed next to the shifter.........if it's an automatic.......

There are a couple of things to check on the M-46 with Type P overdrive (I think yours is a type P and not a type J): 1) Check the electrical connections from the switch on the top of the gearshift knob to the solenoid in the transmission with a VOM. Switch depressed - 12 VDC. Switch not depressed - 0 VDC. If OK - you are getting power to the solenoid that activates the overdrive. 2) Test the solenoid. Either use the switch on the top of the gearshift or use a local power source (12 VDC) wired to the solenoid. Listen for a light click. If you do not hear a click; the solenoid is probably defective. Test with a known good unit. 3) If the solenoid is working (and you are sure it is working) then check the oil level of the overdrive unit. These units use Dexron II/III (check your manual for the correct oil type) and ensure the oil level is correct. 4) These overdrive units are a lot like conventional automatic transmissions and are constructed as such. Consequently, the home mechanic should confine troubleshooting to the solenoid and correct oil level. The Type P units are slightly more durable than the earlier type J units but in either instance rely on fairly rigorous maintenance.

When you say over drive, do you mean disabling the over drive or enabling it. (does it shift into fourth gear?) In a care of the age it is possible that there is a burnt bulb in the gauge cluster. When you turn the key to the on position (with out starting) does the overdrive light illuminate?

Have you drained out the excess oil from the sump. Run fault codes and see which sensor/servo has been affected by the over full situation

If your check engine light is actually blinking and I mean turning on and off constantly (flashing), in almost 100 percent of the cases your vehicles computer is detecting a misfire. Blinking is indicating that the misfire is bad enough that it can cause damge to your catalytic converter. In your vehicle it could be a number of things such as a coil, faulty injector, a malfunction in the VTEC system and more. In order to help properly diagnose the problem I would suggest you go to your local auto parts store. This way most auto parts store will pull diagnostic trouble codes (DTC's) for you for free. Once you get the DTC(s) it will help you/me lead you in the right direction as to what the problem could be. There are several tests that need to be done once you get the DTC(s). You will get something like a "P" code with 4 numbers after it. For example a P0301 means you have a misfire in cylinder number one which could be a coil, injector, an open circuit and the list goes on and that's where the testing come in to diagnose it properly in order not to be purchasing parts that are not needed. There are other codes such as P0335 or P0336 that deals with the crankshaft position sensor or a P1259 which indicates a problem with the VTEC system. Heck you even have a top dead sensor in the vehicle which will pull other DTC(s). I hope I made the point of how important it is to get the DTC(s) cause it could be MANY things until it's diagnosed. If you can get those DTC(s) you can reply/comment here or feel free to email me directly at [email protected] with the DTC(s) you get. I'll be happy to help you diagnose the problem. Hope I was able to help and I would take care of it as soon as possible as a flashing check engine light does detect a problem (misfire) that can cause more costly damage if you continue to drive the vehicle much. Not trying to scare you (like the dealership does) but would hate for you to end up having to buy a catalytic which could be costly as well as oxygen sensors not to mention I am guess your fuel economy probably hasn't been good at all.

Its really sounds like the throttle switch, chack him.

Hi this could just be a faulty switch,especially if it's the origional one.

Some times it is the button that has a timer

Behind central console, under the stereo near the floor

It won't be in the engine compartment. It is too hot and too wet in there.
My guess would be behind the panel to the right of the passenger's feet, or under the dash behind the glove box.
The best place to ask questions regarding a 740 is the RWD section of the Brickboard bbs. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/

You can read up on the ECU for your car here at the website below


http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=What+is+the+ECU+volvo&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=

The terminal marked positive should have a live wire to it, the other should be earthed by the ignition module to generate the current for the spark, Your module should look something like this:_

Check your start injector (under the intake manifold). If OK, check the air valve. 12 VDC at the connector should mean the valve will move when tapped or shaken lightly. To see if it moves - shine a flashlight through the upper opening...
... and verify that you see light on the other side. After five minutes it should close completely. If no change occurs and you have 12 volts at the connector, replace it.

The start injector could also be faulty. It uses a timed thermostat that opens at the operational standard of 60 degrees F. It will pulse on and off and if it's stuck open or closed, this will cause hard starting. The other possible cause is das Luftmassenmesser (Airmassmeter) has failed. Check for breaks in the fine filament around the meter. Also clean it with air mass meter cleaner (NOT brake fluid cleaner!!) and try your starting again; no change, and it is faulty.

Finally, the fuel pumps could need attention, check the fuel filter, tank pump sock (if the tank pump is very noisy it is failing) and tank pump operation. A faulty tank pump makes the main pump work overtime, and this is a major league problem for these cars.

CHECK THE PCV VALVE AND SYSTEM. IT SOUNDS LIKE THE ENGINE IS NOT BREATHING CORRECTLY


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check wiring to wiper motor. if wiring is good. it may be a problem in your steering colume. its is a loose wire some where in the wiper system

slave cylinder and master cylinder should be replaced at the same time. might be the problem. hope this helps.

no, not if it tries to start. maybe crank sensor, maybe fuel pump relay. Listen for fuel pump and check for spark. See my tips posted here and let me know if you have questions: http://www.fixya.com/cars/r5821173-doesnt_car_start_gasoline_engines

hi, you need to take the spark plags out and clean them. the air filter must be taken off and pour an egg cup full of petrol into the carburetter, this is very important not to put too much as this will WET the spark plug and you will need to press the thottle full bore while turning the engine over. try this to test if fuel, spark plugs, points / electronic ignition, ignition, firing order (leads the wrong way around), mechanical parts, all other wiring correct, gerry

crank sensor its down where trans meets engine look for frayed wires replce this sensor its probably oil soaked as well use to own one of these while i worked for volvo